I need some help!

[freekracer09]

I got a question really dont know if someone has posted about this cuz im new to the site.... I have a 2001 Ford Ranger 2.5. I was reading this first post about all the motors compared. I really want to do a turbo but dont feel like swapping motors. I know u can stroke the 2.3 to a 2.5. They dont really make aftermarket parts for the 2.5 but could i turbo my 2.5? are the exhaust manifold bolt patterns the same? also could i use 2.3 stroker parts for my 2.5 since the bore is the same?? I want to run 8:1 compression. Any help would be great guys. thanks

 

[rurouni20xx]

depends on the stroker kit for the 2.3, there is a long rod/underturned crank version of a stroker for the 2.3, thats not what your looking for. believe it or not on racer walsh if you dig around they sell a turbo rotating assembly (8:1 cr) for the 2.5. new crank/rods/forged pistons combo. the rest of the headwork is on you, since the head is off id recommend bronze valve guides oversize stainless valves. was looking around crower and esslingeracing.com and they have several turbo grinds available cam wise along with cam tower straps and main straps. arp fasteners (headstuds/mainstuds) are a good idea too, last thing you want to do it blow a headgasket or sling a crank under load. to be honest im still a little confused on the arrangement of cams, they have 3 different versions of the cams for this head. they have flat tappet cams, solid lifter roller cams and hydraulic lifter roller cams. the factory cam setup is hydraulic rollers, those are the only cams that will work with your valvetrain setup. just make sure you get the correct cam/valvetrain arrangement for the setup you want to run, and get both the rollers and cam at the same time as they break in together. (dont use factory rollers with a new cam you can actually burn up the rollers or wear down the cam believe it or not.) tuning options since you have a 2001 you can get a variety of tuners available, dyno tuning with one of these devices is pretty much your only option since driving with boost attached to your motor isnt a good idea. do some homework as to how much boost you want to run and make sure your fuel system is up to the task, larger capacity fuel pump and injectors may need to be run depending on what you are trying to acheive. exhaust and intake manifolds from the 2.3 turbo will work on the 2.5, trick is finding one as the junkyards are pretty much picked apart. you may have to have a welder make you a collector for your truck which is dollar signs unless you can do it yourself. i wanted to do a turbo kit myself one day but thats lots of time effort work and money, not a 2 day swap. hope your up for the task and would love to see a build thread/pics of fin project when your thru. word from the wise, pick your turbo carefully make sure it is sized for what you want/need and the 2.3 intake setup is small, porting may be in your future (its in my future for my naturally aspirated 92 2.3 i wont lie...)

 

[freekracer09]

hey man. thanks ya i want to do some more research but ill start the project close to summer time. my grandpa has a machine shop/engine shop so all the head work will be easy. this is going to be my daily driver so i want to do it right cuz i dont want to be breaking parts left and right. i just want to make it a super sleeper. i dont like ricers.no offense if ur a ricer. lol

 

[rurouni20xx]

i used to hav a 91 integra b18a1 engine, to each their own. quite frankly i miss that car simply cuz of the 46mpg at 100+mph at 189hp vs 24mpg at 70mph at 100hp currently with the 2.3 i own. i plan on building a high compression 2.3 in the future, may even get a turbo svo block and do the 3.0 stroker...lol only thing holding me back is cuz i hav an obd1 motor (chips or standalone efi only tuning!!!) and no dyno available...

 

[freekracer09]

dude that sucks, no dyno!!! lmao

 

[rurouni20xx]

thats what happens when you live in bfe louisiana. nearest one from what i gather is center texas. makes no sense to me cuz they have a drag strip in baton rouge and shreveport (shreve is really close to me, 70 miles, willing to drive that far for a good tune...) and im pretty sure they arent ALL running carburetors you kno? hell theres some turbo bikes that run in shreve they had to have some dyno work somewhere...i just hate the fact that im stuck messing with a company to get a chip made or run a standalone fuel management system. id do it dont get me wrong im rather proficient with fuel injection jsut the fact that this is my daily driver and cant afford the downtime and have a full time job at the same time you kno? almost looked into updating the trucks elec systems to obd2 so i can run a programmer and wideband controller and tuning it out myself. prob with tht is i see a fristborn assraping coming on that route.

 

[freekracer09]

ya with the obd2 setup sct tuners work like a damn champ with the turbo rangers. i want the touch screen tuner but dont think it work for the ranger.

 

[rurouni20xx]

look into it it just might, talk to the guy at rogueperformance.com hes an sctflash dealer. he does tunes as well for the 3.0 he may also do 2.3/2.5s email him see what he says. i emailed bamachips but no response for my obd1 motor...other guys say they get their chips from them but idk.

 

[freekracer09]

i just emailed him. ill let ya know what he said about my 2.5

 

[rurouni20xx]

kewl beans.

 

[freekracer09]

From Racer Walsh,
350 or so HP can be made with a crower sportsman ros and wiseco forged 8-1 dished piston, and 2.5 crank, good bearings and total seal rings. 400 HP and up I would probably go to a billet set of rods $750 and a billet crank $2000 and up ., same wiseco pistons will be fine. We do not stock the billet cranks but they are available.

rod length what would i use i believe a site said 5.469 or something like that. would i just use the 5.5 they sell???

 

[freekracer09]

Major engine specs are

.......................................2.0........ .2.3 Early....2.3 Late.....2.5
Bore...............................3.520........3. 780.........3.780......3.780
Stroke............................3.126........3.1 26.........3.126......3.401
Bore Spacing...................4.173........4.173...... ...4.173......4.173
Main Journal Dia..............2.3986......2.3986.......2.2055.. ....2.2055
Rod Journal Dia...............2.0468......2.0468.......2.0468. ....2.0468
Con. Rod Length..............5.2047......5.2047.......5.204 7.....5.457
Crank Center to deck.......8.368........8.368.........8.368......8 .368
Piston pin height...............1.583........1.583.........1. 583.....1.2105

 

[rurouni20xx]

looks like 5.5 rods for the 2.5 engine not sure tho. esslingeracing.com has the billet cranks and also have adi knife weight cranks that weigh less than billet cranks and can be stroked to 2.7 but your looking at major blueprinting to run that setup. the 2.3 adi cranks are $1955, stroker adi cranks (2.5-2.7) are $1755 and the billet cranks (2.3-3.0) are $1950 if i read correctly. my thing is idk if billet cranks stretch like billet alum rods do, something to look into tho. the 2.3/2.5 engine can make some serious power, the problem is the stock m50dr1 trans is only good for about 200hp. if you watnt ot keep the stick youd have to upgrade to a t-5 trans (adapters required and not sure where to get them anymore along with converting your hydraulic clutch to an external slave or something dont have much exp with that just kno its required) and outrageous clutch assembly to work with it. to be honest im not sure the 7.5 rear end can handle the torque, so your looking at 8.8 rear end or even a 9 inch swap. i would simply build a 2.5 with a good crank and rods along with forged pistons (keep in mind you will have to let the engine warm up so it seals properly as forged pistons have to swell into the cylinder walls) and strap the mains and cam towers, arp headstuds and mainstuds and felpro gaskets. would also consider a solid roller cam and coversion along with oversized valves (larger valve faces) bronze valve guides and viton seals. this way your engine is built for 8k rpm but keep your redline in the 6500rpm range and you should be safe. when tuning keep your hp numbers in a safe range (225hp max) and low boost levels to keep the drivetrain happy. ive never installed a turbo nor built a turbo motor but thats the safe way of doing it in my opinion. ive been around a lot of turbo motors and ran with a few guys that had them when i was in the drift scene and basically they all said for longevity build it for 10k rpm 25 or more psi boost and just not run it that far and you shouldnt have any problems. you start pushing it tho and youll be in for a high maintenance high rebuild rate motor. any other things you may have i would seriously consider reposting this in the turbo section so they guys that have built turbo motors/done swaps can help you, im just giving you my tidbits that ive picked up along the way when i wanted to build mine. due to expense, downtime, work plus its my only vehicle when i build mine it will be built like a turbo engine just high compression naturally aspirated. much easier/cost effective that way, only thing holding me back from doing it all or getting the ball rolling is lack of tuning options. if i can have that setup/lined out i would do it i would be ordering parts as we speak.

 

[freekracer09]

i got the 5 speed in mine which i believe is the t5 and also planned on getting the 8.8 inch rear end

 

[rurouni20xx]

prob the m50dr1 (mazda 5 speed) the t-5 had to be swapped in from elsewhere. the way to quickly tell is if you have a hydraulic clutch and the line goes into the transmission and you see a bleeder screw above it, thats the dreaded slave cylinder that you have to pull the tranny to replace if and when it starts leaking. if its there then you have the m50d as it has been the standard transmission since the early 90s (maybe even late 80s if i remember correctly...) if your truck has a cable clutch or the hydraulic clutch is there but attaches to an external throwout lever apparatus then it could be a t-5 swapped in.