I need advice on locking the rear

[91stranger]

So I've been debating on selling my truck and getting a 4x4 for a while now and I really like my truck for a number of reasons. I know there's a lot of options when it comes to improving the rear on these. Currently its a 1999 3.0, auto trans, 2wd w/ 3.73 gears. Money is definitely my biggest factor. Would it be better to do an axle swap and get an explorer axle? or is there a good locker that can be added if I know what to look for at a pick n pull? Just get tired of getting stuck on flat roads due to ice and the one wheelie peelie not doing much. I've heard of people with locked rear ends that can almost go as far as a 4wd can in the mud. Just haven't seen it first hand. Any inputs? Oh, this is my daily driver too.

 

[JOLENE_THE_RANGER]

a locker will forsure help you. just weld the spider gears for the cheapest option
haha kidding

 

[CraftsmanQuad19]

Try to find a track-loc at a local pull a part. That would be the cheapest option. Look on your door sticker and let us know what axle code you have, that tells ratio, open or locked, and size. Ratio you know, you know it’s open, so the only thing left is whether it’s an 8.8 or a 7.5

There is a chart on here somewhere that says all the axle codes. Note all the axle codes in your size that have a track-loc and go hunting. Ratio won’t matter since you can reuse your ring and pinion in your factory axle

 

[Captain Ledd]

Having a locked 2wd I can tell you that it certainly helps in a LOT of situations. That being said, I've still gotten it stuck in some rather mundane situations. There's just not enough weight in the rear. Even with my locker, I ultimately decided full on 4x4 was the route to go, but couldn't part with my dear Ranger, and so I'm swapping in 4x4.

Selectable lockers are sweet, but indeed pricy. I'd expect to spend around a grand or so, another $300-ish for shop work, or a weekend or two if you do it yourself (find a buddy that knows how for time savings, or that has the tools already). My ARB was $1100 IIRC, + the compressor, and the install kit.

So likely a swap would be best. Look for an axle that has a tag on the cover (if it hasn't rusted off) and look for "3L73", that will be a 3.73 limited slip. It's the crappy clutch version, but it's inexpensive. You can then either buy new clutches an/or re-arrange the clutches in it for extra surface area and a more grippy L/S.

Note: Just in case, Explorer axles ARE NOT BOLT IN. Welding is required.

 

[Captain Ledd]

Ratio won’t matter since you can reuse your ring and pinion in your factory axle

Used gear sets don't generally swap 1:1, they'll need some work. Once that wear pattern is in it changes things. I have to recommend against swapping R&P's. 3.73 is not an uncommon ratio, you should find an L/S out there. For a older 3.0 in a factory/stock-ish application, 7.5 or 8.8 doesn't matter.

NOW though, you could just swap the carrier, keeping your current ring gear, and might be able to get away with some shimming on the carrier bearings to get the backlash correct. Going this route (keeping your current gears and NOT TOUCHING the pinion) as long as the backlash measurement is the same as before, you should be good to go.

 

[sgtsandman]

Something to consider, though it isn’t necessarily cheap, is and Auburn Ectec. It is a limited slip when off and a locker when on.

That is the route I want to go when I put one in my axle. The LSD is less quirky for road driving than a regular locker. One can do a 180 if they aren’t careful with a locked axle and slippery road conditions.


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[muddypunk]

Having two factory LSD I would say find a R code Ranger 8.8 they work great when they're functioning. I paid about $200 for the Exploder 8.8 I put in my Jeep and including the $200 in brackets welding it up myself was cheaper than buying a full case locker.

Good luck.

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[RonD]

Look here to ID what axle you have now: https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/axle_codes.shtml

On the drivers door label

An OPEN differential provides power to the EASIEST wheel to turn, so in slippery conditions once one wheel starts to spin ALL power is transferred to that wheel, yes, probably not the best setup, but the least expensive for cars and trucks

A Limited Slip(L/S) differential uses gears or clutches to transfer power from faster spinning axle(wheel) to the slower spinning axle, so as one wheel starts to slip, spin faster, power is transferred to the other axle/wheel.

When you are driving the outside wheel, when going around a corner, must spin faster than the inside wheel so this type of differential must "slip" a bit or outside tire would drag, stop turning moment to moment to stay in sync with inside wheel or the axle will break
So its called a Limited slip differential, Ford calls theirs Trac Lok, Chevy calls it Positraction
These both use clutch packs
The gear type like Torsen are a bit better, but for light use the clutch packs are fine

Locking differentials are for specific use, there will be a switch or lever in the cab to Lock rear differential, so both axles/wheels must turn at the same speed
This prevents any cornering, except on low traction surfaces where a wheel can drag easily.
This wouldn't be practical for general street use, but very cool to have


Most Ranger 4WD models came with L/S rear axles(not all) and you can bolt any year Ranger axle into any year Ranger, 1993 and up were wider axles, 1" wider on each side.
And Ranger 7.5" or 8.8" axles can be swapped no difference in install
Explorer axles need to be modified

Front wheel drive(FWD) is the main reason 4WD in trucks works better
Pulling a load is much easier than Pushing a load
This is why FWD cars do better in the snow than rear wheel drive cars or trucks, even though FWD is an OPEN differential.
Yes, the weight of engine above the drive axle is good but the Pulling of the car's overall weight is what makes the difference.
Rear wheel drive cars or trucks can be loaded up with weight over rear axle and still not do as well as FWD, pulling the weight is the key

A rear wheel drive with limited slip axle is better than OPEN, but it is still Pushing the weight of the vehicle, so front wheels will tend to dig in to snow or mud or ??, instead of being Pulled above it

If you have 4 wheel vs 2 wheel drive then you have twice the chance of one wheel getting traction in slippery conditions, so as for a rear wheel drive with limited slip or locker going where ever a 4WD can go its not true BUT...............
Most places people with 4WDs go are not like that, so yes, with a Limited Slip rear axle and a winch you can go off road with some confidence.

But again, in mud your front wheels will dive into the mud and rear wheels, limited slip or locker, won't be able to Push them out.
I don't know if you remember the old days, but its still applicable today, when all cars and trucks were rear wheel drive in some situation you would have to Back up a hill in Reverse to get to the top, Pull the car up the hill vs trying to Push it up the hill

 

[adsm08]

My advice for locking the rear is make sure you don't leave your keys in there when you close it up. You will never get back in.

 

[CraftsmanQuad19]

My advice for locking the rear is make sure you don't leave your keys in there when you close it up. You will never get back in.

Hahahahahahaha smart ass

 

[sgtsandman]

My advice for locking the rear is make sure you don't leave your keys in there when you close it up. You will never get back in.

 

[pjtoledo]

good snow tires and 300 lbs in the bed will get you thru a lot with your current setup.
I have a 2005 2wd. with dedicated winter tires it was almost unstoppable.

the easiest locker would be a lock-rite, no need to screw with the gears. even with a limited slip yard axle you should still open it up for new clutches.

aren't you only an hours drive from Jegs???? maybe 2 from Summit??

 

[Curious Hound]

If budget allows it, I agree with ^^^^^. Lock-rite or Aussie. Easy to install. Keep your original carrier and gears, no messing with bearings, shims, etc. Only locks when torque is applied. Let off the accelerator (throttle, gas pedal, etc) around sharp corners and it loosens up and allows differential action.

This message composed solely of recycled electrons. Go green!

 

[91stranger]

I believe the axle code is 86 if I remember. I know its a 7.5 with open 3.73s. I know all too well about the differences between posi and open and limited slip. I'm well aware that a fully locked rear end will have drag noise around corners and earlier tire wear. I just wanted to know if someone had a good cheap option. And yes Jegs and Summit are not that far from me but time is my issue. between work, 4 kids and cutting firewood for the winter I have zero time to do anything but eat, sleep, work and play with my kids. Thanks for all the input. I think when my tax return comes I'll be looking at something to help. Honestly with how terrible gas mileage the 3.0 with auto trans gets I could get a full size chevy v8 and get 18 mpg compared to my current 13-16 mpg and still have a full size 4wd... I don't get why Ford would use such a terrible combination that they know gets terrible gas mileage. I miss my old ranger. It had the 2.3 with a 5 speed. Before I got that truck it was my mom's and she would barely go 50-55 mph and just slowly drive around and she could get 500 miles on the 20 gallon tank (25 mpg). I couldn't get quite as good but I could get around 20 mpg while driving like a normal 30 yr old male with the mindset of an 18 yr old lol.

 

[19Walt93]

One of the techs in my old crew put a power trax locker in his 2wd Ranger and loves it, it didn't require much of a teardown. I couldn't stand the way it sounds though, when he goes around a corner it sounds like it's grinding itself to pieces but it's been in there for over 100k.