I need a little help here please,

[MarlboroMan]

I have a 94 ranger,2 wd,5 speed manual. A while back my truck was acting a little funny while driving.If I was at normal driving speeds and tried to give it gas to pass someone it would rev up for a second or two before actually going faster.Then the problem got worse and was doing it all the time.I eventualy parked it for a while till I could figure it out.Today I bleed the Hydrualic in hopes that would help.Sadly it did not.I bleed the system untill all the air bubbles stopped.I even bleed it a little more just to make sure.The truck still shifts fine and drives but,it seems like the clutch isn't letting go fully.I have even read about testing to see if the clutch was bad by parking the truck against an imovable object and putting it in 5th gear and release the clutch.I did and it stalled immediately.From what I read that meant the clutch was still good.What about the clutch cable,does this need adjusting or is it a self-adjusting cable?I am hoping this is something I can fix myself as I don't have the money to take it in somewhere.Any help would be greatly appreciated.If anymore info is needed let me know,I will be checking back often cause I only have till Monday to get it running again and get the tags renewed before it is towed away.Procrastination is a pain I know.Thanks again!

 

[baddis]

there is no cable it is all hydraulic.

 

[MarlboroMan]

D'oh! What was I thinking....shhh don't tell no one....lol.I actually knew that,that is how I found out it was hydraulic.Don't know why I asked that.Oh well,any thoughts on what else i could try?Maybe I let it get air back in the system when bleeding it?This is really driving me crazy,I love that truck and wanna get it back on the road.Thanks for the reply.

 

[AllanD]

The ammount the clutch will slip is variable depending on the temperature of
the clutch.

I would submit that your clutch is indeed worn out and if you drive it the symptoms will tend to get worse.

Does it ever do it in 4th gear?

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[MarlboroMan]

It does it in every gear.Reverse to 5th(or OD)which ever you prefer.It is just confusing me all together.I can still spin the tires great on take off,(I know I shouldn,t do burn outs....but),when I drive normal I can just pop the clutch and there is no jump in the transmission.It is like I am driving normal with the clutch.I am starting to think when I bleed it I let the fluid get to low again and took in more air.It was just me and my wife bleeding the clutch and it seems hard for two people to open and close the bleed screw and pump the clutch while trying to make sure the reservoir is full.I hope that I just screwed up in bleeding the system and that I am in not need of major repairs,cause I don't have the money.I also don't want to sell it cause I can't fix it,as it is something my Father gave me before he passed away,so it has sentimental value to me.Thanks to everyone who has replied to me so far!!!

 

[thegoat4]

If you have air in the clutch linkage the clutch will not release. What you're describing sounds more like the clutch is released all the time. Your clutch is slipping and needs to be replaced.

 

[MAKG]

Yup, these are CLASSIC symptoms of a worn or fouled clutch.

Not only will it get worse, it will progressively accelerate until you can't move anywhere.

Another classic symptom is, when shifting under power, you might have to let off the accelerator to get it to "catch." That's a very early sign. What you are describing is a much later sign. And it reads "change me now."

 

[cocoasranger]

"It was just me and my wife bleeding the clutch and it seems hard for two people to open and close the bleed screw and pump the clutch while trying to make sure the reservoir is full."

I solved that problem by attaching a 3/8" barb connector to the bottom of a plastic quart container and just hung it like an IV bag with the hose from the shot glass sized stock reservoir plugged into it. You can bleed the clutch system till the cows come home without worrying about running dry.

 

[BlackBII]

Sounds like a really worn out clutch... May want to replace it now rather than having it go completely out and having your truck be unmoveable at a bad time. A clutch kit will cost you somewhere around 100$ depending on where you live. It's easy to do your self, just unbolt the tranny, slide it back enough to get a wrench or two in there and take the old one out, can be done in an hour or two if you know what your doing....

 

[MarlboroMan]

Thats the sad thing....I don't know what I am doing.I never had to do any kind of transmission work before.I have done plenty of engine work but that's it.I haven't drove it since it started acting up,except a test drive after bleeding the clutch.I was just didn't think it was the clutch cause it still shifts easy and there wasn't any kind of noise from the trans.Thanks to everyone that answered my question.Have a great day!

 

[BlackBII]

If you've done engine work, tranny work isn't that far off.... It's all nuts and bolts, take 'em all off and put 'em back on Replacing a clutch is simple.
Remove starter.
Remove all bolts connecting tranny and motor.
Unbolt driveshaft.
Unbolt Tranny crossmember.
Slide tranny back, may have to remove clutch line, I've done it without removing it.
Take out 6 bolts on pressure plate. Pull it out with it hitting you in the face
Remove clutch disc and throwwout bearing.
Install new clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing just how you took it out, lining it up with clutch alignment tool and make sure you grease the splines!
Bolt it all back up and hu-ra new clutch

 

[thegoat4]

You don't HAVE to, but it's a nice move to resurface the flywheel. Especially if the old clutch was slipping a lot since the flywheel face will likely have martinsite spots which could cause noise.

 

[metalmacguyver]

You don't HAVE to, but it's a nice move to resurface the flywheel. Especially if the old clutch was slipping a lot since the flywheel face will likely have martinsite spots which could cause noise.

which is easily done by hand with some sand paper.

 

[AllanD]

Thats the sad thing....I don't know what I am doing.I never had to do any kind of transmission work before.I have done plenty of engine work but that's it.I haven't drove it since it started acting up,except a test drive after bleeding the clutch.I was just didn't think it was the clutch cause it still shifts easy and there wasn't any kind of noise from the trans.Thanks to everyone that answered my question.Have a great day!

You say "it shifts fine", but NOT shifting fine is a symptom of a clutch ACTUATION problem, in other words a clutch that because of a hydraulic problem you cannot RELEASE.

YOUR PROBLEM is that the clutch is essentially releasing ITSELF, so OF COURSE it "shifts fine"

As the problem progresses you will be able to sit in a parking lot with the gas pedal FIRMLY against the floor and effertlessly shift it through all the gears!

you are/were reacting to the problem "bass akwards" so to speak.

The clutch "slipping" can NEVER be fixed by bleeding the hydraulics

that might work on brakes when they don't grab but the brakes and the clutch work BACKWARDS compared to each other.

hydraulics APPLY the brakes

it is Springs that APPLY the clutch, so unless you know how to "bleed a spring" forget bleeding to fix a slipping clutch.

I will remain fascinated with just how many times this exact conversation has
repeated itself, and I will also condinue to be disturbed as it repeats itself again, and again, and again.

Now to see if anyone has posted about how bleeding their brakes didn't fix
brakes that lock up....

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