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I just had a stupid idea! Ghetto Limited Slip


Not day one, but close to it.

It is tough to know which wheel is spinning on a tractor with big fenders if you can't see it... which I think would also be a problem on a pickup.

i dont have a problem detecting which wheel to lock.


the link i posted is old, i actually went to a remote setup with momentary switches right before i made that update which works great with the stock abs setups.

the gm setup i need to apply to my rig, just never got around to it. room is at a premium with the current engine, and time for refining stuff like that as my son takes up most of it...my daughters were allot easier on me:D






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A BETTER WAY(update 6/10/06) {recommended for beginners}to wire it is to have two or so momentary buttons on your floor shifter, or fab a hand held controller and put the switches on it to suit your needs.
in this case of the 3 channel you only need two momentary buttons. you can put the ground for the rear brakes to each momentary, and the left brake to one switch and the right brake to one switch, this way when you turn the system on, all you have to do is hit the left or right switch and then modulate the brakes while throttling forward, when you let off the switch your brakes are back instantly. this should be the best way to operate the system. i will try to get pictures up before the end of the month.



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it rides on the bucket back with ttb....
2167330146_large.jpg
 
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I'd love to weld it up, but it's a daily driver.
 
I'm probably getting a locker for my 9" with my tax return, but I just had a stupid, stupid idea.
In an open diff the wheel with the least traction gets all the power...Well, what about dual e-brake set up? Each wheel with it's own lever. You could essentially lock the wheel that's spinning allowing power to switched to the other tire.

Sounds like it would work providing enough grab is achieved to lock the tire.

Huh? You with me on this? This is the Mod that will be featured on all the 4x4 magazines! Just you wait and see.

Damn it. I never have any original ideas. I quit.

Not original, but certainly good. I frequently just set the brake part way on the 2wd Chevy when it gets stuck on ice or snow. Did it just this afternoon. Similar effect, but not as efficient.

It is tough to know which wheel is spinning on a tractor with big fenders if you can't see it... which I think would also be a problem on a pickup.

I don't see what that would be an issue. I have a parabolic on my truck's driver side. Without it all I can see in that mirror is the rear wheel.
 
I wanna weld my b2 up, but I don't know know how the 7.5 would do.lol my friends always weld em up tho,

I heard that the 7.5 becomes stronger when welded, because their weak link is in the spider gears.(from searching awhile ago) I plan on doing it later when i get my "thing" running to take strain off the D28 when turning those 33's.
 
i dont have a problem detecting which wheel to lock.


the link i posted is old, i actually went to a remote setup with momentary switches right before i made that update which works great with the stock abs setups.

the gm setup i need to apply to my rig, just never got around to it. room is at a premium with the current engine, and time for refining stuff like that as my son takes up most of it...my daughters were allot easier on me:D






2167330144_large.jpg






2167330153_large.jpg




2167330145_large.jpg





2167330147_large.jpg




it rides on the bucket back with ttb....
2167330146_large.jpg

while i've often thought about doing this,i never got around to it.how do you modulate bake pressure with this system?

I heard that the 7.5 becomes stronger when welded, because their weak link is in the spider gears.(from searching awhile ago) I plan on doing it later when i get my "thing" running to take strain off the D28 when turning those 33's.

i've never broken spiders on a d28....many,many axles-but no spiders.
 
its called traction control lol. except in that case its all automatic
 
I don't see what that would be an issue. I have a parabolic on my truck's driver side. Without it all I can see in that mirror is the rear wheel.

Just something I have noticed watching guys with wheatland fendered (the fenders usually wrap about halfway around the tire and cover about half the width and no rear tire is visable from the seat) at NATPA div II/III tractor pulls. The wheatland guys go charging down the track and one wheel breaks loose and spins out. There is no way to tell which wheel spun out, if it is both or even the clutch slipping. A guy with smaller fenders can go down there burning the paint off the drums to dodge holes and keep it on the track knowing exactly which tire is slipping and how much.

My tractors either have skimpy fenders or no fenders. Differential braking is extremly handy on them, I never fully "lock" a wheel for traction because that just makes the other one spin and when you do that it just makes it all that much harder to get going again. You now have two polished holes to try to drag yourself out of. I just ease into them to try to equalize relative traction, slamming them on is also hard stuff, most tractor manuals say not to even use the brakes for traction because of the potential of mechanical damage.

You can do the same more or less with the parking brake in a truck.

I can't see the tires in my pickup mirrors. Could go by rooster tails depending on conditions though I guess.
 
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its called traction control lol. except in that case its all automatic

Traction control on my Buick cuts the ignition timing on the engine :bawling:
 
So is the RABS unit controlling the brake pressure when you run the switches or is it the driver that is pushing on the brake and running the switches? 'Cause if it is the RABS unit does all the braking then, I would like to try this on my Ranger.
 
while i've often thought about doing this,i never got around to it.how do you modulate bake pressure with this system?



i've never broken spiders on a d28....many,many axles-but no spiders.

So is the RABS unit controlling the brake pressure when you run the switches or is it the driver that is pushing on the brake and running the switches? 'Cause if it is the RABS unit does all the braking then, I would like to try this on my Ranger.



on the early rbv setup, be it rabs or 4w, your foot does not totally modulate the actual brake pressure or rate of valving---in factory form the computer just strobes the valving with the pump running based on brake input...

thats the captain caveman answer, obviously its a bit more complicated, though not nearly as complicated as the system on z-mans buick.

i have experimented with a way to strobe the valving with a momentary switch while running the pump with the rbv setup but not with the results desired. so i just went to single switching and modulate it with actual pedal pressure, and its what makes it dangerous with the toggle system, i never took pictures of the momentary setups, but i should dig those out i suppose and correct the toggle system...or remove it altogether. the momentary setup was in series with the toggle setup, the toggle was better for certain situations but the momentary is superior for off road use as you have full braking whenever the buttons are not pressed.

the gm setups i experimented with--(there are several but its a traction control unit like the buick setup mentioned by z-man)--- did open apply pressure with pump force, though its not modulated pressure and just locks the wheel with whatever force it has when you press the button....you basically modulate it pressing the button but thats not perfect as its sort of sluggish. hard to picture till you do it, but for low speed trail use its fine. the purposes of stopping a spinning wheel.



if you have selectable lockers, the maneuverability it provides is crazy.

especially in snow. you can pivot turn etc...


as to the single channel rabs valve, you can cut pressure to the rear brakes for smokey burnouts or donuts etc. basically it only allows you to exclude brake pressure under manual manipulation to whatever circuit floows after the valve.


hope that helps. you use brake pedal force with the scenario shown here, and that is why it is best to configure the exlusion of a given wheel on momentary switching.....it cost me 15 bucks or so at radio shack to build the switching device. i will try to dig something up for a visual and make a diagram of some type.



i am quite surprised you didnt use the brake bias technique on your 4 wheel steer sploder to make insane circles gwaii..
 
Just something I have noticed watching guys with wheatland fendered (the fenders usually wrap about halfway around the tire and cover about half the width and no rear tire is visable from the seat) at NATPA div II/III tractor pulls. The wheatland guys go charging down the track and one wheel breaks loose and spins out. There is no way to tell which wheel spun out, if it is both or even the clutch slipping. A guy with smaller fenders can go down there burning the paint off the drums to dodge holes and keep it on the track knowing exactly which tire is slipping and how much.

My tractors either have skimpy fenders or no fenders. Differential braking is extremly handy on them, I never fully "lock" a wheel for traction because that just makes the other one spin and when you do that it just makes it all that much harder to get going again. You now have two polished holes to try to drag yourself out of. I just ease into them to try to equalize relative traction, slamming them on is also hard stuff, most tractor manuals say not to even use the brakes for traction because of the potential of mechanical damage.

You can do the same more or less with the parking brake in a truck.

I can't see the tires in my pickup mirrors. Could go by rooster tails depending on conditions though I guess.



when i was sled pulling/tough trucking i almost went to cable brakes on my ranger, but went locker first. when i was drifting one way or the other its one side or the other spinning faster and not a mystery, once locked out back i usually only had one wheel pulling hard on the front and the drift was very predicatable but i still was not able to full pull. if i had this setup back then or was locked up front as well i wonder if i could have full pulled. pretty sure i could have a few times. problem was i almost always started wheels up a bit so locked up front would have been bad, but with the bias sytem i bet i would have really pissed many more people off in the 5250 down class.
 
i am quite surprised you didnt use the brake bias technique on your 4 wheel steer sploder to make insane circles gwaii..

good info:icon_thumby:

on the 'sploder,it hardly seems to need it,but what the hell,i may just get stupider on it just because.i have a 4 wheel abs/tcs unit from a '00 cougar i've been saving for this sort of thing.
 
oh,and on the chop-top b2 that became the wheelie machine i had a steer-brake unit meant for vw based rigs hooked to the front,it really made a difference.
 

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