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I have Tried Everything :( Please Help!


Dwright4

Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2008
Messages
14
Transmission
Automatic
I have a 99 Ranger with the 3.0 Flex fuel in it. The truck has 170,000 on it and has ran great until a few months ago when it started running rough.
The truck has a hard time starting and when it finally does it has a hard time staying started unless I place my foot on the gas. The truck has no power at all and when you finally do get to 65mph on the highway the thing will not stay in overdrive more than 5 or so seconds then shifts back to drive..when in overdrive the truck is stumbling like crazy and shaking the whole truck..

So no power on Highway,hard Starting and will not idle..Here is what I have replaced in the last 2 months.. Battery,Battery Cables, MAF, Plugs,Wires set,Ignition Coil Pack,DPFE,Gutted the Cat(thinking it was plugged),All 3 O2's, All Injectors,Cleaned the IAC, New upper and lower Intake Gaskets,Cleaned the EGR,New Fuel Filter. No Codes at all

BTW if I turn my A/C on it will kill the truck when in park or neutral even if driving down the highway.Any ideas would be nice
Thanks
 
BTW if I turn my A/C on it will kill the truck when in park or neutral even if driving down the highway.Any ideas would be nice
Thanks

That'd leave me to believe that the A/C compressor/clutch is screwed.....maybe try buying a shorter belt for a non-a/c truck. That way you'd bypass the compressor. Or try to unplug the connector to the compressor. If there is still no change then the problem is obviously somewhere else.
 
You've tried everything? Didn't list a compression test.


Diagnostic at a decent ford dealership....


Around 60 bucks, far less than you've thrown at the truck without results.


BTW, sooner or later you're probably gonna get a code for converter efficiency. Gutting the cat was silly.
 
Are the plugs black, white, tan???
Is the truck running hot?

Are you sure the crank position sensor is working? Your cam position sensor is almost certainly junk, but that wouldn't produce the symptoms you have.

There are only 2 things to make the problems you have.... Bad fuel mixture or wrong spark timing (unless you threw a valve or blew a hole in the piston). The first thing I want to know is if the brain knows where the crank is so it can shoot the fuel in and fire the plugs at the right time.

Here's what my cam position sensor and synchronizer looked like. I assume ALL 3.0 will have this problem.

DCP_2716.jpg

DCP_2717.jpg

DCP_2719.jpg
 
Have you checked for vaccum leaks? checked to see if you've got vaccum at the EGR valve? you said you cleaned the EGR valve, but did you check it to make sure it's moving at all? with the motor at an Idle remove the vaccum line from the EGR valve and hook up a vaccum pump, pump it up to 10-15 lbs and see what happens, it should try to kill the truck. mine was acting exactly like yours plus terrible fuel milage, turned out the EGR valve was bent and stuck partially open. And basically I'd say a stuck open EGR is a huge vaccum leak... so start by checking for leaks then check the Valve ... sounds like you're just throwing parts at it without trying to diagnose anything, but hey if you've got the money to throw away at least you know all those parts are good, so long as they're not all auto zone specials, in which case you just created a whole bunch of problems for the near future.
 
One more thing, you said no codes at all, is that KOEO or KOER or both? alot of times you get codes with the engine running that you wont with KOEO....
 
static timing, stretched chain jumping a tooth, doubt it would throw codes then....

plus it would do everything you mentioned
 
I have tried putting vaccum on the EGR and it will try to kill the engine, pkus when I had it off I checked it movement with an hand pump..My Diagnose software will tell you everything either with the key on or off.when on it will show timing advance,incoming air charge temp,load,all o2's. and still get no codes from that.I haven' looked at the Cam sensor yet.Never runs hot or every overheat. Plugs look like they are running lean more to the white side and the O2's are telling it to add fuel.But nothing seems to help it out
 
Yes, I agree the timing chain could have skipped. Worth a check. Also check the crank sensor.

It also wouldn't hurt to have a compression test on all 6 cylinders. You might find one with low pressure for some reason.
 
In addition, I would imagine that if the timing jumped, then the compression would show low on all cylinders. The compression stroke will be modified by the change in cam timing. There may be a lower than normal cylinder, but on a whole the numbers on all cylinders should be down. Keep this in mind when performing the test.
 
Makes sense.... I vote for a check of compression and to be very suspect of a timing change for one reason or another.
 
have you checked fuel pressure at koeo, after 10 min soak and driving down the road under a load, a lack of fuel pressure may cause your downshift or holding of gears. i know you have a new filter, but i'd rule out pump/tank issues too.
 
have you checked fuel pressure at koeo, after 10 min soak and driving down the road under a load, a lack of fuel pressure may cause your downshift or holding of gears. i know you have a new filter, but i'd rule out pump/tank issues too.

That's the great thing about these forums... 10 heads are better than one! :icon_thumby:

Checking the fuel pressure sounds like a great idea. And I've read the ranger fuel pumps have longevity issues.
 
Really, if the truck skipped timing, I don't think it get to highway speed.

It could be the fuel pump. The PSI at the fuel rail can be within spec, but not be producing enough volume to the injectors.

I do want you to check one thing before you go and replace a fuel pump or anything. Check the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Little cylinder with a vacuum line on top. Pull that line and see if fuel will seep out. I remember now, I once had this problem. Hard starts, ran like shit, lack of power. Hhmmmm.
 

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