I got a rear end.

[91stranger]

So I got this yesterday from my buddy's dad. He has a salvage yard full of rangers and he said this one came out of this truck, which had a different frame from another truck. Both trucks showed an 86 axle code but this has the overload leaf on it. There isn't an axle tag on the diff cover either. I haven't had a chance to pull the diff cover yet to see what the ring gear says but I was hoping someone might know just by looking at it. My current rear end only has 3 leafs on each side where as this one has 4 (3 plus the overload spring) so I wasn't sure if this could be stock, added on, or am I just over thinking it. He said it came from a manual trans ranger. I can't tell if it has 9 or 10 inch drums. I got it home last night and didn't mess with it at all. I would like to just bolt this right up to my truck. but wasn't sure if that 4th leaf is going to make a difference or not?? I've never swapped a rear end so its all new to me. Any advice would be appreciated like any tips or tricks. I've got the basics like jack stand, good impacts, good sockets and tools but without having ever doing this I don't want to make a stupid mistake. Before I even do the swap I am going to change the diff fluid, possibly the pinion seal, change the brake pads and just try to clean it up some. I think I got a good deal at $100 for the whole axle with the leaf springs.

 

[RonD]

They look like 9" drums because they have fins, the 10" were smooth, just generally

I don't see the ABS sensor on that axle, but I think I see the hole?
You need it if you have a 1999, for speedometer

You would use your leafs if you like your current ride, you can add the overloads though
More leafs will most likely give you a stiffer ride when bed is empty

IMO, unbolting the axle from the leaf springs is easier than unbolting the leafs from the hangers

The hanger/leafs bolts rarely unscrew, need to cut and even torch them to get them off, so need to pull the bed or the heat will damage it
The axle u-bolts often unscew unless threads are damaged but can be cut with sawz-all and are not expensive to replace, $20-$30 for all 4

 

[8thTon]

It's good to get a little rear now and then I guess

 

[Bgunner]

Those do look like the 9inch drums. The issue with his is stopping power if you have 10s on there now. Not only is the diameter different the shoe width is smaller on the 9 inch than the 10 inch drums. If you choose to stick with the 9 inch drums I have a brand new set in storage if you want them. I ordered the wrong set for my truck and just kept them.

 

[pjtoledo]

my 2005 2wd has the overload leaf, so did a set of replacements.
have fun with those rusted spring bolts.

one trick I used for stuck spring bolts, IF the nut comes off, is to cut the head off.
then remove nut and place washers/spacers on threads then put nut back on.
then use impact to run the nut on., pulling the bolt thru the spacers,
repeat with progressively longer spacers.

don't run the nut on far enough that it jams into the non-threaded part of the bolt.

 

[Shran]

I'd use your current springs. They are difficult enough to remove out here and exponentially harder in the rust belt. The lack of overloads is nothing to worry about, just means your truck was built with lighter duty springs.

Make sure your driveshaft will bolt up to the axle flange. If it doesn't have an ABS sensor, there's a good chance that it's an older 1st Gen axle that has a smaller flange than you have now.

 

[Curious Hound]

. If you choose to stick with the 9 inch drums I have a brand new set in storage if you want them. I ordered the wrong set for my truck and just kept them.

I did that, too.

 

[Curious Hound]

"I got a rear end."

Rear ends are like opinions. Everyone has one and they all stink.



Wait.



I didn't say that right. Did I?

 

[Bgunner]

Once he cracks the cover he'll find out how bad they stink.... Nasty stinky old GL5/gear oil

 

[sgtsandman]

The extra leaf will add more load capacity and a harsher ride. The four leaf is a 1750# load rating. Look at the drum mounting flange, you could possibly swap you current drums on to the new axle. IIRC, they are often the same flange, just different sized drums for different models of Rangers. I did that with my '98 when I swapped axles on it since the drums that came with the salvage yard axle we crap and the brakes on the original axle were pretty much new.

 

[91stranger]

I'd like to swap the 10" drums over to the new axle because I just did those brakes about 5-6 months ago. Haven't had a chance to mess with anything yet due to the snow and just a busy life with the holidays and work. I didn't think about the drive shaft not bolting up to the flange.... I guess I'll have to measure it... With the rust I already figured I would be using the grinder and Sawzall to get the bolts out. I don't have a torch unless I do the job at work which I have been considering. Does anyone know if there is a date on the axle or on the gears? I know the gear ratio is stamped on the gears but wasn't sure about the year. He said it was a 3:73 but who knows since the tag is gone.

 

[RonD]

Not sure on the date stamp

But you can put a mark on the driveshaft and brake drum
3 and 3/4 turns of drive shaft should = 1 full turn of brake drum if its a 3.73 ratio

4 turns of drive shaft would be a 4.10 ratio

 

[gw33gp]

I have never had much luck with figuring out the gear ratio with the driveshaft rotating method. I estimated my 69 Fairlane Cobra had 3.50 or 3.75 gears with that method. When I had a Detroit Truetrac installed in it, I found out it has 3.25 gears. I am not saying it is not possible to do, I just have trouble with it. With an open axle, you never know If the spider gears activate. I guess keeping one wheel from spinning and divide the number of rotations on the spinning wheel by 2, I might have better luck.

 

[19Walt93]

You have to pull the cover to change the lube anyway, just count the teeth and you'll know.

 

[sgtsandman]

Or look at the ratio stamp that is usually on the ring gear.