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I AM COMPLETELY STUMPED!!!! lets go all u master techs


EEK ! Never re used head bolts on anything but pre 77 ish v8's.
 
second to the never reuse head bolts when you do the final torque and the extra quarter turn your stretching the bolts so they CANNOT be reused but it just sounds like you have air in the system.
 
When a headgasket went on my truck it did this. Almost sounds like ice shooting through the heater core or something...
 
When you put the thermostat in, did you put the pellet so it's clocked at the top? If not, it will be pretty difficult to bleed the air out.
 
ya i did reuse the head bolts but i soaked them in oil overnight i dont thinks a head issue,,, not real familar with the flush T ? i think i might try sticking a coat hanger in the end of one of the heater hoses while its still attached and burping it that way.
 
ya i did reuse the head bolts but i soaked them in oil overnight i dont thinks a head issue,,, not real familar with the flush T ? i think i might try sticking a coat hanger in the end of one of the heater hoses while its still attached and burping it that way.

The reason for not reusing head bolts is because they should only get torqued once. They lose a lot of integrity after they've been torqued and then taken out. I'm sorry, but what exactly do you mean by putting a hanger in the heater hose to burp it?
 
with the hose still connected to the inlet and outlet to the heater core i free the out let hose enough to stick a coat hanger in there to let the air bleed and not get coolant all over ill try it but i will try your way
 
You'll just end up with more air in the system that way brother.
Just cut the heater hose in two and put a flush tee in there. Its easy as hell ;)

The head bolts literally stretch after final torquing by a few thousandths of an inch. Reusing them and final torquing them again stresses and stretches the bolts a few more thousandths of an inch. When the motor heats up during operation it stretches even further through heat expansion. Because of the stress put on them via torquing and the added stress of heat they loose tensile strength dramatically if reused.
Combine the stress of reused bolts with heat and it can create a gap between the head and the block. You end up either sucking or blowing a gasket 50% of the time. Bleeding the system with a flush-T will be the only way to tell if no fluids are mixing and your having trouble detecting a compression leak with out doing a real pressure test. Requires special equipment. If after you properly bleed the system and air returns check the heater core, all hoses and the radiator 1st for leaks though before you rip the head off again.
I WOULD buy new head bolts and do it right if it were me though.
 
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ya i was afraid of that, i almost half tempted to go out and buy 2 new heads loaded for 400 bucks theres a place in indiana were a company sells oem cylinder heads fro dirt cheap they might even be 300 now, and get new bolts and a new head gasket set,,,, another thing i have about secound delay when hitting the throttle, i already cleaned my mass air flow sensor and it helped a little but still there any thought maybe injectors or sticky throttle body? hey so are u a tech or somthing, im just fresh out of school new tech but im pretty good with automotives just some things cant really get me.
 
Nope, back yard grease monkey here. I have owned so many shit boxes I couldn't afford to pay some one to work on I had to do all the work my self. Over the years I guess I learned something some where LOL !

Good automotive repair software helps pretty well too. I take advantage of a friends generosity to get good working copies of all years of domestic cars and trucks from a friend who owns a shop when he upgrades his all data pro repair software( every other year ). Only thing is I cant go online with it to update. But who gives a rats. Its all still there and currently goes from 1966 to 2008 LOL! I'll probably try to find all the imports on line via torrents, and the new domestic discs soon though.

Be sure you buy a radiator flush kit ( comes with that t-valve ) bleed the system of air, and check the coolant system for leaks before you rip those heads off again or replace them and definitely buy a new set of head bolts.
 
for what its worth ,i bought a set of those heads from indiana , they work flawlessly, looks like a new casting. they also smoothed all the cast imperfections that protrude on the stock ports.
and for the noise, change the thermostat and install the tee with the stupid cap .
oh ! i remember this time i had a cracked head that was building super high pressures in the radiator ,i used a pressure guage where the cap goes ,and it pulsed very obviously every time that cylinder fired. so if its a smooth pressure in the radiator, its not the head. it was jumping from zero to 16psi if i remember correctly.
 
ya i try the flush kit and a cap, but i might do the heads from indiana sounds good from what your telling me sounds good dude thanks for the advice
 
Try the flush kit and check the system 1st. Save your money if you can and put it towards something else on your lil monster.
 
thanks for the advice everyone i found it is air in the system but from the heads,,, if any knows anyone who is selling a box and both doors for my 94 ranger xl reg. cab 4x4 4.0 let me know thank you
 

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