• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

how should this be fixed?


I think mine are interference bolts. When I take my arms off they fight me to the last thread. I feel like I'm rowing a Phonetian galley with my 4' pipe on my rachet. I can't imagine them coming out on their own.
That is the way my Dana 28 was when I took it out for the first time. I was so wore out from just the radius arm bolts that I didn't feel like doing anything else.

I need to beef up my Superlift arms. Next time my springs come out (soon hopefully) they will be beefed up.
 
My prefered method of dealing with radius arm bolts is to take a closed end wrench and put it on the bolt, stand on it with one foot holding wrench on the bolt head and then turning the wrench with my 4lb sledge.
 
I have another D35 beam and radius arm on my B2 im going to put on. Then take the broken beam to work and reweld the threaded insert to the beam. Then its time to gusset and plate my beams for future abuse :icon_hornsup:

Beam was rust free last time i had it out. I think the bolt being loose allowed a certain amount of slop to break it free.
 
I tried putting a 2 ft 1" drive ratchet on mine and beating on it and hitting it with a sledge, and I got nothing. I took it over to my buddy house and he got it red hot with his torch and with a regular 1/2" drive ratchet they came out like it was nothing.
 
I highly recommend plating the bottom of the driverside beam like this.

I used 5/16 plate, cut a template out of cardboard and torched out the piece. Then started at one end and heated/bent as necessary and welded it on.
n703930719_4387943_6954.jpg


n703930719_4387944_7358.jpg
 
Holy crap that is thick. How did you get your radius arm to go around it?
 
My prefered method of dealing with radius arm bolts is to take a closed end wrench and put it on the bolt, stand on it with one foot holding wrench on the bolt head and then turning the wrench with my 4lb sledge.

I bought an inch drive 1,500ft# impact. I had to put a 1/2" airhose on my 7hp compressor to run it but it gently turns those babies right out. Only thing is, you have to take the axle beam off because of the size of the wrench. I think it weighs close to 40# and is a couple feet long.
 
Holy crap that is thick. How did you get your radius arm to go around it?

I cut the tab off, offset it by 5/16", welded it back on and added another small piece of plate to it to reinforce it. I then used a hole saw to cut the hole out for the bolt to go through into the normal threaded hole.
 
Thanks for the extra plating idea. Definetly a good one.

its funny (not really!) you guys are talking about plating the bottom of the beam..

n513533454_1690327_2096.jpg


i got my radius arm fixed, was going to install it today.. i JUST removed the swaybar bracket and noticed a small bump, look underneath and... holy crap.
 
Holy Crap!
 
Last edited:

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top