How do I disconnect this high pressure clutch line?

[LonesomeSTX]

I have a strong belief the new clutch master cylinder I installed on this Ranger is bad. Pulling it and swapping it for a new one would not be an issue if I could just pull this one. The problem I am having is the little plastic ring that is used to disconnect the high pressure line is trashed. None of my disconnect tools will fit because there is a lip on the fitting. I have tried other rings with no luck and I have found none in the salvage yards. This truck is deadlined until I get this disconnected. Do any of you have any ideas on how I can do that?

 

[pillen140]

Push the white collar ring together where there is a split in it, then oush that samw white collar in towards they slave cylinder itself.

 

[LonesomeSTX]

There is no white ring. That is the issue.

 

[fastpakr]

Are you replacing the slave cylinder? If so, you can grind/snap off the side of the shell around the ring, then just pop the line out. Hope that makes sense, I'm doing it from memory. Had to do that on my '94.

 

[fastpakr]

Wait - are we talking about the master or the slave? Description sounds like slave but you stated master. If you're working with the master cylinder, there's just a roll pin that holds the line in place.

 

[LonesomeSTX]

I have already replaced that. I went through the whole clutch system on this truck. The master cylinder is new as well but I got a bad one it looks like. I have to pull the line from the master to the slave so I can bleed it. Also, becuase of the location of that pin, I am unable to get in there and pop it out. Even if I could, I still have to get the line out anyway to install it on the new master and bleed the whole assembly.

 

[fastpakr]

You do not need to pull the line from the master cylinder to bleed it (nor do I recommend it). Release the cylinder from the firewall, then orient it so air bubbles will be released from the pocket they get trapped in, then bleed it by pushing the piston by hand with a hose connected to the bleed valve on the slave.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Make your own white plastic ring using a hose clamp. Cut off the screw end leaving a semi-circular piece similar in shape to the white plastic. If you don't have the ford recommended tool, a couple of screwdrivers pushing in will do it. If you still want to remove the line at the master end, then find a nail or something of the right dimension and file a flat end. cut it to about 1" and use water-pump pliers to squeeze this in....forcing out the roll pin enough to be able to grab it with vise grips. You'll have to make sure the water-pump pliers are on enough of an angle to let the roll pin pass. Bench bleed the new master and after that use a homemade vacuum bleeder system to bleed the line.
Good luck,

Richard

 

[LonesomeSTX]

I did not think of the hose clamp idea. Thanks, I think that will work.

 

[fastpakr]

As I stated above, there's no reason whatsoever to remove the master completely. You can leave the complete hydraulic system intact and just invert the master during the bleedind process. It's been described on these forums repeatedly over the years. You can even run the bleed line from the slave all the way into the reservoir at the master if the hose is long enough and leave the bleeder cracked open the whole time. Works a treat.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

You're absolutely correct, fastpakr. However, I felt a description of how to remove the line from the master was appropriate as the OP asked for that info. I used the same method before I found out about the hose clamp trick.

Richard

 

[LonesomeSTX]

I did not consider that. After I learned about taking it out that is how I have been doing it. I like the idea of not taking it out. I will see if I can stretch it out tomorrow.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Also, try just pushing the clutch pedal to the floor then slipping your foot off, do this a few times and the air will have escaped the master cylinder... sounds stupid but it works...

 

[LonesomeSTX]

Tried that with no luck. The master cylinder is not doing anything at all.

 

[ZMan]

I havent completely read the thread, but i assume youve got air stuck in the master. What i always do, and it works every time, is i go in and remove the snap ring that holds the pedal plunger in the master, then i pull the plunger out. This will make a mess, so have your carpet pulled back and have some towels ready. Then just stick the plunger back in, put the snap ring back in, bleed the slave as normal, repeat if necessary, ive done this on 3 rangers so far, and have given the same advice to a few friends who were having issues bleeding theirs.