horrible

[FRENCHMan]

yas sasquatch explained exactly as i meant.



and i also like moog




..i think where i confused was trying to explain if you remove the rivets from your good usable brackets, and simply use bolts in place of the rivets on your bracket, you can replace the bushing components with just a 10000 pound ratchet strap to tug the beams forward and some fiddling with the punch and a pry bar. this can save some work or maybe make it worse for some....


if by chance your brackets was in bad shape you would have to do it anyway. we really need to make a video of this procedure for just these occasions.


good luck

Thank you very much Mr bobbywalter If I do that.
I do a thread with pictures.
To explain a little work to be done

 

[xr75er]

when using poly bushing ensure that you put some grease on the bushing. all over the inside where it slides on the arm and the out side where the bushing contacts the cross member and the washers. If not they will squeak. first hand knowlage as I installed them on a 94 Explorer , 85 F-150 and my 86 Bronco ll. allow 8 hours as this is your first time once you do this it will be about a 4 hour job after that.

 

[FRENCHMan]

Thank you very much Mr xr75er For your advices

 

[FRENCHMan]

Replace Radius Arm Bushing

Yeah, you need to take the front suspension apart. Unbolt the shock, tie-rod and sway bar, and the axle will drop far enough to get the spring out. Then, you can pull the axle forward just enough to get the radius arm out and replace the bushing.

It's not that hard, you'll need basic tools, sockets, ratchet, extension, floor jack, etc

Please,
to replace Radius Arm Bushing
i need to get out the Coil spring located in place or it is , or I can do without

I decision to replace radius arm bushing
not pierce or remove the rivets.
just Simply by pulling on the front axle
Thank you very much for your explanation and advices, or what else

 

[FRENCHMan]

What Bobby was getting at was that if the holes in the radius arm brackets are worn out, the brackets will need to be replaced as well. If the holes are not worn, and are still round with the lip still intact then by all means reuse them. No need to change parts that are not broken/worn out.

I run the Moog bushings in my trucks, they have not given me any issues and are lasting very well.

Ok thank you very for your explanation Mr Sasquatch_Ryda i understand your answer


EDIT

Could you give me other explanation please
I must buy Grade 8 bolt capability in yield (stretch) or Grade 8 bolt capability in tension (failure) i think Ultimate Shear Capability of Fastener (ksi) are the best .
you are ok with me
ultimate question please.
so far I have not disconnected the arm radius
i think best bought in first Grade 8 bolt could you say what Fastener Diameter I have to take for my truck please.
It's difficult for me for read this measurement chart.

http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/fasteners/index.asp

Thank you very much for your explanations and advices
sorry for this inconvenience

 

[Snoranger]

Most people will drill the rivet holes to 1/2" and use 1/2" grade 8 bolts.

It might be easier for you to find metric bolts. You can use M12 Class10.9. That would be the closest metric bolt.

 

[FRENCHMan]

Most people will drill the rivet holes to 1/2" and use 1/2" grade 8 bolts.

It might be easier for you to find metric bolts. You can use M12 Class10.9. That would be the closest metric bolt.

Thank, for your reply MR snoranger

How can I translate "M12 Class10.9 - 1/2" grade 8 bolts " in FRENCH
Or could you give a link or bought this type bolts and nuts

Thank you very much for your help

 

[Snoranger]

Classe de boulon 12mm 10,9. (google translate)

 

[FRENCHMan]

please other help

I'm going crazy!!
Please can you put me a link to purchase nut and bolts grade 8 = metric class 10.9.

Or this is it right

Sorry for the inconvenience but I can not find
Thank you very much for your help

 

[bobbywalter]

7/16 or 12 mm grade 5 bolts will work to replace the 4 removed rivets.

grade 8 bolts are ideal of course.

 

[FRENCHMan]

7/16 or 12 mm grade 5 bolts will work to replace the 4 removed rivets.

grade 8 bolts are ideal of course.

Thank you very much Mr bobbywalter

Sorry about the inconvenience!! this is are correct please I prefer to be sure of this

http://www.nutsandbolts.com/716-14-x-1-grade-8-hex-bolts-hex-head-cap-screws-qty-1-p-1424.html

Thank you very much for your help

EDIT

Yeah, you need to take the front suspension apart. Unbolt the shock, tie-rod and sway bar, and the axle will drop far enough to get the spring out. Then, you can pull the axle forward just enough to get the radius arm out and replace the bushing.

It's not that hard, you'll need basic tools, sockets, ratchet, extension, floor jack, etc

Please,
to replace Radius Arm Bushing
i need to get out the Coil spring located in place or it is , or I can do without

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Thank you very much Mr bobbywalter

Sorry about the inconvenience!! this is are correct please I prefer to be sure of this

http://www.nutsandbolts.com/716-14-x-1-grade-8-hex-bolts-hex-head-cap-screws-qty-1-p-1424.html

Thank you very much for your help

EDIT

Correct.

Please,
to replace Radius Arm Bushing
i need to get out the Coil spring located in place or it is , or I can do without

I was able to replace the radius arm bushings WITHOUT removing the coil spring. I used a ratchet strap to pull the beam forward enough to get the bushings replaced. I had the front of the truck frame placed on a very heavy duty saw-horse [both beams can be worked on at the same time, kind of red neck but it worked for me]

and wrapped one end of the strap to the sawhorse, the other end to the beam. I also removed the sway bar link and the shock. Be VERY careful when using this method as you MAY pull the truck off the sawhorse.
Edit; well, not 'off' the sawhorse, but it may shift enough to collapse.

 

[BlackBII]

Please,
to replace Radius Arm Bushing
i need to get out the Coil spring located in place or it is , or I can do without

MR FRENCH

You do not need to remove the coil spring.

Once you unbolt the shock, swingarm, tie rod and radius arm, the axle beam will fall down far enough that the coil spring will no longer be under any pressure, and it will pretty much just fall out. At this point, you can pull/push the axle beam forward towards the front of the truck to remove the radius arm from the bracket.

You do not need to remove the radius arm brackets and rivets.

 

[bobbywalter]

MR FRENCH

You do not need to remove the coil spring.

Once you unbolt the shock, swingarm, tie rod and radius arm, the axle beam will fall down far enough that the coil spring will no longer be under any pressure, and it will pretty much just fall out. At this point, you can pull/push the axle beam forward towards the front of the truck to remove the radius arm from the bracket.

You do not need to remove the radius arm brackets and rivets.

yeah i see the confusion now. many methods are being described.

you do not need to remove the radius arm brackets or rivets unless of course the brackets are toast.

i can leave the truck mostly on the ground...tires stay on ground and not even pull the tires though to change these by making the brackets removable....a jack, a prybar or two, a grinder with a cut off wheel---hammer, punch/drift and a few hand tools along with a 10k ratchet strap knocks it out in short order....i dont need the ratchet strap but it helps.




if the truck is getting close to needing the bearings serviced/brakes etc...then the method of tearing it all down is a great way to go as the systems stays serviceable from actually taking it all apart and servicing it. you cant loose by tearing it all down, cleaning it all up and freshening the components with paint and lube and bearings etc.

needs/time/space/actual tools available are always factors.