Hida a key? and fire extinguisher type/location

[RonD]

Keyless entry module(RAP) needs to be installed already to use the "stick on" keypads, they are basically a Fob with a combination, they send out the Lock or Unlock wireless signal like a Fob does when correct key sequence is entered

If you just have powered locks but not keyless entry then you can use hidden button, just for unlock, and I think they have key pads for that as well but wired, 3 wires at least, 12v, ground and control

 

[James Morse]

I have 2 fobs that came w/ it so yes, keyless entry. So I must have the RAP right?
I never use the actual key to get in, although I suppose I should try both sides just to make sure they are freed up in case I had to do that.

To lock it up, normally I use the fob also, if it's a habit then you have to have your keys with you vs the two other ways you can lock it (button up by window, or button on the arm rest). If you always do it even if you -did- accidentally lock it before you got out, you will still have your keys with you.

OK so sometimes I probably hit the one of the other buttons when getting out, but I try to keep the habit of having the key.

Also if you press it twice, the first time it locks, and the second time it beeps the horn ("yep, I'm locked"). It's a check in case you're walking away and not sure if you were good about pressing the button. Or like if your battery ran out and you don't get that beep you'd go oh-oh something not right, either I messed up on the first press or something is amiss.

To me the design of this stuff is right on.

If it's locked and you lift a door handle the interior light comes on. Not sure if that's part of theft prevention or just works that way, guess I could test if it happens when it's not locked.

Some Ford trucks the exterior bed light comes on when the dome light comes on (when you open the door), but I don't know if mine does, I think that's kind of nice if it does. So another little thing to test. I know it comes on if you go to the click position on the dash lights brightness adjuster.

 

[RonD]

Yes, you have a Rap module

So can add a wireless keypad

Cargo light is usually only controlled by dimmer switch
Would be no issue in wiring it to come on with dome light when door is opened, its all the same fuse in most years so you could splice dome light 12v wire to cargo light 12v wire, and it would work either way

 

[James Morse]

I orde the plastic keys. Couple questions:
1. What is the advantage of having a plastic key? Doesn't rust? Doesn't get picked up by metal detector? I'm guessing. I think they are kind of emergency keys. And a promotional thing I guess.
2. About having a key that just opens the door - how do I do that? I have just one key on each fob (XLT) and it works doors and also ignition. Same with the Mazda, just one key works everything, if either of them came with 2, I don't have them. Which is surprising in the case of the XLT because it was missing nothing afaik.

Per #2 above, do locksmiths have any way to make just a door key from the works-all keys?
As to the Mazda PATS keys, what a person could do is make a key from a plain metal blank or even if were from a PATS blank, just don't program it. The person, if they found the key, could get in, but they couldn't start it.

Thanks. The plastic keys, obviously they are intended as door-only key and everything-key.

 

[RonD]

The plastic keys are just lighter and fit in a wallet like a credit card
Not meant for regular use, just in emergencies
It would wear out pretty fast or just break if your lock was sticky/hard to turn

 

[sgtsandman]

Any locksmith can cut a key that will work the door. Not every locksmith can program a key but programing isn’t an issue.

You would need to ask if they have blanks that will work. If they do, cutting a key should be a nonissue.

The fat part that you grip isn’t needed since you aren’t worried about a chip. So, you can use an old style key or a generic key with the same profile on the toothed part and be good to go.

If you keep you lock cylinders operating freely and easily, those plastic keys should be ok. Lock lube with the graphite in it should help greatly with that. The frequency will depend on your area and the weather. I have to lube mine about twice a year at a minimum but with enough rain or wet snow, it could be more. If the door cylinders start turning rough or get finicky, it’s time to lube the locks again.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

My understanding with those plastic keys (my 92 came with an uncut set) was that they were supposed to be cut by the dealer for your vehicle and kept in your wallet as spares that could be used in an emergency or used by a locksmith to cut new keys for your vehicle that would have zero wear (assuming you didn’t use them in an emergency).

@James Morse , those plastic keys are likely incorrect for your Ranger, they are for the older trucks that used the oval head key for the door and square head for the ignition. You likely have the same key for the 97 as my F-150 (I haven’t yet owned a third gen and I haven’t looked in my key books since I do some locksmith work). Most of what you find are small plastic head keys for those, but there is a “service key” option that is a plain metal head which makes for a flatter key.

 

[James Morse]

I'm guessing the plastic is bendable type you can cut (and use) the key without breaking it out, so it retains the credit-card shape. Guess I'll find out. @RonD, Are yours (that are cut) still on the card?

For the '97 Ranger I have 2 keys/fobs that came with it. I'm going to get one or two more keys, cheap ($4), probably without the plastic surround so it's flatter. Mazda I got keys galore, it came with one, I did that right off. And had to get spare tire key too, but no such thing on the '97.

Are you saying then that for both the Ranger and Mazda, there were -not- keys that opened just the doors? Because if that's so it throws the whole idea of a backup setup involving it totally out the window.

I remember as a kid I think it was a '68 Custom 500, there were those 2 different shape keys, one just for doors. Saab ('86 900T) had a setup where one key opened everything, then there was a "valet key" that would open and start the car, but didn't open the lockable glove compartment nor lockable center console, (or trunk either, I think) so they couldn't steal stuff. Actually that was the best Saab I ever had of all of them (probably a dozen anyway) and I replaced it with a 2000 9-5 Aero but the '86 was really a better car if you ask me and I should have just fixed the few things on it and kept it. It was that lovely Rose Quartz color that changed appearance depending on the light. Traded the '86 at 222,222.2 miles. Just happened that way, it was close, so I trundled around the dealer lot to get the last tenth lined up. The guy looked at it "is this a joke? it's broken?" I'm like nope that's actual miles.

I remember once I was in Canada and asked the guy to get my car and he comes back 20 minutes later "I can't find the ignition". Um, look between the seats. I liked that setup, keys don't jangle around.

If the plastic keys don't fit mine, which I suspect you are right, I'll give them away. I did ask the guy about the fit to '97 but you know for $14 it aint worth screwing much with it.

 

[RonD]

Yes, they were still attached, there is a gap you can see where a key cutter can be used without removing the key
These are one sided keys so will only work when inserted one way, cut surface up usually

The metal two sided cut keys were for convenience, they can be inserted either way and work

Yes, for many years door keys had one or two less "cuts" so a door key could unlock door but couldn't turn ignition on, but ignition key could unlock door
Not sure when that was dropped, or why it was even done that way, lol

 

[James Morse]

Scratching head... yeah one has to construct a scenario where it makes sense. I guess, like we were saying, you have a spare ignition key hidden inside the vehicle. Then you hide the door key outside. Thief finds the door key, gets in, can't start it, and doesn't find or doesn't think to look for the interior-hidden ignition key. But I hardly think they would expect people to fathom this. Maybe if we looked in the old user booklets it would explain the why of it.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

@James Morse

So look at those plastic keys you posted, they are actually two different key shapes. I know the first and second gen Rangers and Bronco II’s used that style. Oval head was the door and glove box (or in the Eddie Bauer B2s it also did console and storage compartments), and it wouldn’t fit in the ignition because it was the opposite key blade shape as the ignition key (square head). Not sure what 3rd gens had for keys. 4th gens and up (98-11) used one key and if it had anti-theft, it was a chip key.

The 89 F-350 dad had was a two key truck, same keys as the 1st and 2nd Gen Ranger. The 94 F-350 had one plastic head key that worked the doors and ignition and an older oval head key to work the glove box. My 95 F-150 has one plastic head key that works everything, IIRC. I know I never got any different key for the glove box for it and I’m pretty sure the key I do have works the glove box.

I’m not really sure why they used separate door and ignition keys, especially because there weren’t a lot of different key cuts. The door key for my 88 Bronco II has also opened the doors on an 89 Bronco II that I had and the one door on my 92 Ranger. That’s not very secure, lol.

 

[James Morse]

I put a spare key in the cargo box when off-roading and I don't lock the tool box. Could have add'l spare I suppose too taped to fuel fill or something. If you load the tool box too much it is possible to get stuff jammed so the latch mechanism won't work so that's not foolproof, or if you forget and lock the box.
I put a 2.5 lb extinguisher in the tool box and 2.0 lb behind my seat. I just leave them in the box it's not 2 seconds to get them out, and they pack better.
I figure one or the other ought to work, not like they are prone to failure but it could happen.
Then you hope you never use them at least not on your own truck.

 

[sgtsandman]

I zip tied a non-PATS capable key to the wire harness behind the rear bumper. That way someone can't steal the truck if they find it. It's there just in case I lock the real key in the truck.

 

[Curious Hound]

I zip tied a non-PATS capable key to the wire harness behind the rear bumper. That way someone can't steal the truck if they find it. It's there just in case I lock the real key in the truck.

But, if they find that and the real key is inside the truck....

 

[sgtsandman]

But, if they find that and the real key is inside the truck....

If it's like the last time, years ago. It was very difficult to see in the ignition. Plus, it's a stick. I haven't done anything like that with the 2019 because of the transmission. Plus, I don't lock the door now unless it is with the key or the key fob. That makes it difficult to lock the keys in the truck but not impossible. Fool proof only develops a better idiot and depending on who you ask, I make a great idiot.