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Hi! New 2wd front wheel bearing quiet, but smoking and a stuck hood!


markymayhem

New Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2014
Messages
2
Vehicle Year
1995
Transmission
Manual
First of all, hello. I have been using this wonderful resource to fix up my 1995 4cy 2wd auto Mazda b2300, and to change a clutch and timing belt on my buddies kids 1996 Ranger XLT 4cyl. I've got a problem that needs to be addressed ASAP and I can't think of any group that's better to ask.

My right front wheel bearing needed replacing. I've never owned a truck, or packed a front wheel bearing, having mostly worked on FWD cars.
So I did it by the book except

A) I kept the old hub and reused the races. There were some visible..marks, not scores but they I couldn't feel them they were slick as you know what. I did this because to get em pressed is half the price of a rotor/hub and then you get in to all new front brakes.

B) I reused the rear seal because every part place gave me the wrong seal that didn't fit. I didn't hurt it taking it out and it went on tight with a hammer.

Anyway, I think I used to much grease on the spindle in the hub and under the cap. I found pink grease on my wheel after a highway drive and it was leaking from under the rim of the dust cap.

It spins smoothly, no noise or anything so I didnt think anything of it.
It's still silent and smooth, but I noticed today after a highway drive small amounts of smoke coming from the wheel well!

After a short local drive to test, and a quick inspection, more smoke. Jack it up spin the wheel, retorque the nut new cotter pin etc.

Could there just be grease on the rotor burning off or did I screw this up? I need to figure it out ASAP of course.

AND to top it off my hood is stuck shut, the lever doesnt disengage the latch, as of today!!

Help, please!
 
First of all, hello. I have been using this wonderful resource to fix up my 1995 4cy 2wd auto Mazda b2300, and to change a clutch and timing belt on my buddies kids 1996 Ranger XLT 4cyl. I've got a problem that needs to be addressed ASAP and I can't think of any group that's better to ask.

My right front wheel bearing needed replacing. I've never owned a truck, or packed a front wheel bearing, having mostly worked on FWD cars.
So I did it by the book except

A) I kept the old hub and reused the races. There were some visible..marks, not scores but they I couldn't feel them they were slick as you know what. I did this because to get em pressed is half the price of a rotor/hub and then you get in to all new front brakes.

B) I reused the rear seal because every part place gave me the wrong seal that didn't fit. I didn't hurt it taking it out and it went on tight with a hammer.

Anyway, I think I used to much grease on the spindle in the hub and under the cap. I found pink grease on my wheel after a highway drive and it was leaking from under the rim of the dust cap.

It spins smoothly, no noise or anything so I didnt think anything of it.
It's still silent and smooth, but I noticed today after a highway drive small amounts of smoke coming from the wheel well!

After a short local drive to test, and a quick inspection, more smoke. Jack it up spin the wheel, retorque the nut new cotter pin etc.

Could there just be grease on the rotor burning off or did I screw this up? I need to figure it out ASAP of course.

AND to top it off my hood is stuck shut, the lever doesnt disengage the latch, as of today!!

Help, please!


i would pull that wheel and inspect bearings again get new seel and you should always replace the races when replacing bearings (races can be tapped out of rotor with a hammer and some kind of rod races can also be replaced in the same manner if careful but they do have tools for installing races)

as for hood sounds like a broken hood release cable
 
A shop by my place will redo it with new races for $65, I haven't got the time this week to tear in to it again and I need my truck!

So my question now is - how do I get the hook open so I can replace the release cable?
 

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