Help with Frame

[Iron Ranger]

^^^ I agree but I did some reading about this awhile ago and one thing that was mentioned more than once by different authors was to NOT weld the fishplate on the vertical but to use a diamond shape, and no sharp corners... make sure to have a radius on the corner IE round it off. I wish I knew how to draw on the computer but the best I can do is... the fishplate should have an arrow shape on the left and right end. I also agree with no bolts.

Richard

Kinda like this?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Kinda like this?

Yes.

I had a '54 chev one ton [I bought already done] that had a three foot stretch done on the frame. I drove it for ~ ten years and had some major loads on it and it never failed. The stretch was done by finding another c-channel that fit inside the original size and stitch welding them together.... a 6" weld, skip 6", a 6" weld and repeat. The only problem that I saw with this method was rust was starting to force the unwelded portions apart. I don't know if that method would be feasible in this case though it might be another option.

Richard

 

[Boggin]

Kip its too bad you werent up here. i got the whole frame just sittin in my garage just bare chassis and its in my way im soon bringing it to the scrap yard

 

[99_3.0]

The bolt heads would show if someone were to inspect it. Plus, a good weld in those 8 spots would hold just a well, if not better, than the bolts.

Good point! I'm not bashing your idea or anything, it's just how I would feel comfortable doing something like this. Plus your welding skills are leagues above me haha! I gotta get my 3G and 3F uphill lookin' better!

 

[Ranger Kip]

I just learned how to weld and in metal shop I weld a lot (being 45 minute class at the end of the day with me spending about 3 out of 5 days a week doing around 20 minutes of welding). Fixing my frame is easier and cheaper than buying a new one, or a used truck. In fact, this should only cost me about $70 if I do it right, maybe less. My buddy and I rebuilt a minibike in under $10, it having been sitting in pieces in a buddies garage for around 5-8years, the tire we got for it was $10 at a make-shift junk-store.

I am curious as to if anyone can come down for a day (planned of course), that could weld it together for me? I trust someone elses welds over mine right now.

Sorry to thread jack but how is business on the farm, you guys aint losing anything still are you?

Farm is solid, so far, a few scares, but as long as dad's job holds up, we are good.

 

[Iron Ranger]

I am curious as to if anyone can come down for a day (planned of course), that could weld it together for me? I trust someone elses welds over mine right now.

It's times like these where I wish I had free air-fare and vacation days. I'd be down there in a heartbeat!!

 

[basilfaulty]

Cut a section off the old frame, split it length wise, trim some off and weld it back together. The object is to make a "C" sleeve that fits snugly inside the existing rails. Plug weld the sleeve you just created inside either the new section or old section doesn't matter. Now you can slide the 2 sections together, plug weld the sleeve to the other section of frame then stitch weld where the frame is butted together. Usually when this type of repair is done you try to cut in the middle of a cross member or something so the cross member is attached to both the new and old section of the frame. This helps "locate" the new section as does the sleeve. When the 2 sections are butted together they shouldn't be touching each other, you need a root gap between the 2 for welding. You have to have the gap so that you can weld all 3 pieces together (old frame, sleeve, new frame) Your root gap should be at least 1/2 to 3/4 the thickness of the frame you are welding. Of course this is just a quick description .... you have to fit and refit a ton of times before any welding, clamp everything in place, etc. Cross measure for square. You stand a much better chance of getting it straight and level with "C" sleeves made from a piece of original frame and sectioning in the middle of a cross member or something. I wouldn't suggest this with a 110 mig, you won't get enough penetration, You may have an ok weld but you won't get enough penetration. Also you want to use ER70S-6 wire of about .030 thickness. Other type wire is not strong enough for this type of repair and will crack and break.

 

[The_Dealer]

like richard said cut the frame at an angle. this is the part where u measure 50 times, mark it good, check it 50 more then make your cut at an angle. then when u scab your new pieces om the outside make sure it overlaps about 3 inches. and drill some 1/2" holes in the scab plate and throw some weld in those too. do the same for the inside of the fram, then u can box it in if u see fit. yes u will still see the scab plates but who cares.

do some searching for "frame lengthening" "repairing frame" over on pirate4x4.com those guys do that kinda stuff everyday. when i put the ranger cab on the ol b2 im gonna lengthen the rear of the frame about 5 or 6" and im gonna do it the same way

 

[The_Dealer]

^^^ I agree but I did some reading about this awhile ago and one thing that was mentioned more than once by different authors was to NOT weld the fishplate on the vertical but to use a diamond shape, and no sharp corners... make sure to have a radius on the corner IE round it off. I wish I knew how to draw on the computer but the best I can do is... the fishplate should have an arrow shape on the left and right end. I also agree with no bolts.

Richard

yea, u want a triangular/diamond shaped scab plate , never just square plate

hope this helps so u can get an idea of what to do. its basically the same as shortening or lengthening a frame. this would be a good time to not skimp on your welds. if u dont feel comfortable with your welding skills, tack everything in place and have a proffesssional come do the final wleding

 

[Ranger Kip]

yea, u want a triangular/diamond shaped scab plate , never just square plate

hope this helps so u can get an idea of what to do. its basically the same as shortening or lengthening a frame. this would be a good time to not skimp on your welds. if u dont feel comfortable with your welding skills, tack everything in place and have a proffesssional come do the final wleding

I'm more comfortable with my welding skills, but only used 1 welder, this spring, maybe here in the next 2 months, I am gonna be borrowing Jason's MIG welder and Stick Welder and using my generator to get some practice. We have plenty of electrodes and 2 spools of flux.

I might grab some scrap metal in the metalshop and practice my welding on it, the high school has a LOT of flux and electrodes. Our old metal teacher never threw any of it out, we have enough electrodes to build a 3-cannon battleship!

 

[whatelseisleft]

for what its worth to pass DOT inspection in the state of CA... you would have to weld a c-channel to the inside of the frame with a rectangular plate on the outside of the frame bolted to the frame... then you would have to put a grade 8 1/2" shank bolt through the frame every 3" on the horizontal and every 4" on the vertical... and the bolts would have to line up with at least 2 bolts on either side of sectioned frame... this is coming from a buddy who does DOT inspections for the state of CA...

 

[randallmain]

good ideas...

I would weld on the horizontal plane only as well as plug weld. Arrows and radii are basically same principal as welding on horizontal only. 45 would be acceptable to, just try to steer clear of straight verticals.

 

[funinthemud]

you get it fixed up?