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Help re RX300 timing belt


Have not upgraded Rx lenses yet. RA it is. THANKS!!!
Edit: pulled the trigger on it.
what is the name of the big c-clip looking things to take out the big pulleys?
and the other little pulley-puller tool?
what's a good brand electric socket wrench (small/medium not huge)?
 
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My guy says he has all the tools.
Wouldn't one want to replace alternator belt at the same time since you have to take several things apart to get to it? Plus it's probably original (who knows).
 
If the belt(s) are in need of replacement, this is certainly a good time for it.
 
My guy says he has all the tools.
Wouldn't one want to replace alternator belt at the same time since you have to take several things apart to get to it? Plus it's probably original (who knows).
Wow. Is it difficult on a Lexus?
Another plus for most of our Rangers. Pull the tensioner back and lift the belt out of the way. (Accessory drive belt, that is.)
 
Well, just saying, you do have to take off a few things to do serp belt, which would already be off to change timing belt/water pump, of course it's much smaller job to just change belt. I think it's just the one belt (besides the timing belt).
The thing is, here's a car with 265k miles on it and she asked her dad what was done to it and he said "nothing" which doesn't make any sense because obviously you have to do something to run a car that long. I guess I'd say, the chance I'd be putting in a new serp belt when one was just put in, is like zero.

The whole timing belt thing is happening because one of the pulleys for it was squeaking which tells me, bearing is shot, and you wouldn't like order one bearing and tear the thing apart for that and you wouldn't like squirt some oil in it and say, ok, it's fixed....so... could I get by with just timing belt and bearings, probably, but at those miles it just seems to make sense to do the water pump. She asked me, why replace pump if it's working and I said "I think, if you ask 100 people, should I do water pump at this miles, while I'm doing timing belt, assuming they're both original, 90 or more would say do it." Hope I wasn't wrong there.

Serp belts seem to vary all over the place in price, I like Dayco stuff but no particular reason for it. Not sure what you lose if serp belt stops working; at least the alternator, lol. It wouldn't wreck the engine like broken/slipped timing belt though.

This is a pretty good vid Timing Belt & Water pump Replacement LEXUS RX300 3.0L 4WD 1998~2003 1MZ FE U140F - YouTube

Taking off the serp belt is early on but you do have to take off a few things.

Yes the setup of the transverse engine puts all that stuff in a kind of cramped area to the side. When I did belt/tensioner on the XLT I was also doing rad replacement and with the rad out, which is easy (and messy) to do, there's so much room to work it's just really nice and one of the things I like about them. Having worked on the Mazda, fairly similar, that was a factor in getting the Ranger.

The whole premise here is trying to make a car with unknown history (except that it was one-owner) reliable so it's balancing cost against reducing points of likely failure and timing belt is one thing you don't want failing because of collateral damage not to mention you lose control of the car maybe at 80mph that can be bad apart from the engine being toast. I could have skipped pump, it adds a lot to the work, on the other hand I'd hate to do timing belt then have water pump go bad a month later and tear it apart again.

To me, let's say it adds 200 maybe parts/labor to do the water pump. Balance that against her calling me from 400 miles away "It's leaking water really bad" and me telling her, drive a little, dump in some water, watch the temp gauge. No thanks. I could be wrong about what I'm doing, but if anything, it's erring on the side of caution.

Edit: hired wrench says get serp belt and also get power steering belt he says there are those 2.
 
Wow. Is it difficult on a Lexus?
Another plus for most of our Rangers. Pull the tensioner back and lift the belt out of the way. (Accessory drive belt, that is.)

If it’s anything like the Hondas I worked on, it is indeed quite the project and there is quite a number of things you want to replace while you are there and have it all apart.

The water pump and the timing belt tensioners being the big ones. The accessory belts have to come off to get to the timing cover and timing belt and the water pump is driven by the timing belt. Sooo...
 
s. The accessory belts have to come off to get to the timing cover and timing belt and the water pump is driven by the timing belt. Sooo...
At that point, you might as well replace the cup holders and pine scented air freshener, too.
 
Yes you described it in short... basically everything comes apart. And you already have the belts off, so it adds no extra work to put new ones.
The way I see it then everything under the plastic cover is done, shouldn't have to go in there for awhile. I hope.
I only got the 2 belts at Advance because I needed them right now. Bad planning, they would have been 1/2 or 1/3 the price at RA, and probably would have been here. Sometimes though by the time you add shipping for a really small thing, it's still cheaper, but not that much.
Basically I'm done at this point. My guy will put it in, and I've got a feeling he works better if I just stay out of the way.
 
So I was trying to get a feel on labor, I said how do you feel about 150 and he says that's kinda low. He's looking for 200-250 (probably 250).
I think that is not ripping me off he says he wants 50/hr that's way cheaper than shops of course he has not much overhead but he did have to buy a few tools he didn't have.
Anyway I agreed to "not more than" 250. It's a pretty hard job and looking at shops, to do timing belt, the other 2 belts, and the water pump, I think it'd be all of a grand maybe more. Right now I have 250 in part and if it's 250 labor total 500, that's still half of having it done by Lexus etc. Plus he does the job right here I don't have to go drop off car, wait for calls, etc.
He says the Aisin is actually upgrade from oem because it has the better water pump gasket.
He said this engine has timing marks so he lines them all up TDC to the respective marks on the engine when putting in the new belt, kind of hard to f it up.
And I overpaid for the little belts, could have probably saved 30 easy there at RA it was just bad planning. Paid like 70 for the two of them, that seems really high but it's a done deal now.
 
Chev 'burban, but it's big as a barn. Taking pics easier than doing the job lol.
IMG_3204.JPG
IMG_3206.JPG
 
He got stuck yesteray, the crankshaft bolt is stuck fast. He even tried 'bumping' the starter (put a breaker on the bolt, put that against the frame, and just barely touch the starter) - didn't work. So he ordered the special tool that fits onto the crankshaft pulley then you put a breaker on that then break it loose. Rest of job was going swimmingly up to then.
Camshaft seals look good, inside of cover was clean, so if they leak at all, it can't be much.
 
He got stuck yesteray, the crankshaft bolt is stuck fast. He even tried 'bumping' the starter (put a breaker on the bolt, put that against the frame, and just barely touch the starter) - didn't work. So he ordered the special tool that fits onto the crankshaft pulley then you put a breaker on that then break it loose. Rest of job was going swimmingly up to then.
Camshaft seals look good, inside of cover was clean, so if they leak at all, it can't be much.

Yep, that special tool is a thing. I used to have one because it was the only way to get the crankshaft pulley out. It is basically a big allen key with a hole in the middle for the socket for the bolt.
 
They really made it a big project to change the water pump, at least relative to Ranger water pump replacement.
 

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