Help pricing B3000

[superj]

kbb and nada are useless here, only the car lots use them.


that red truck is nice looking though, i would say 5-7k and it would sell quickly. you could probably list it for 9 or 10 and let someone talk you down so they feel like they got a deal

 

[Uncle Gump]

I just ran my 86 Bronco II through the JD Powers site...

Average retail was 14K and high retail of 24K.

Makes a man really think if he should just put a for sale sign in it. I'm not going to do that but damn it... it sure is tempting.

 

[James Morse]

holy crap batman that is very high Uncle they must be in demand.

there are multiple "book values" and it's like all the books the dealers use (when buying) list anything over 20 yrs old as 1500. I'm exaggerating, but you get the drift. their "black book"

then the jd power retail side is more what they charge.

where I got mine the guy told me straight out they expect to make 3k on any used vehicle. that was part of the long haggling, I told them "you have 3k to work with" and they claimed they put 2,700 into it so they were making nothing. wheel bearings, drums, rotors, air filter, oil change, heater valve, upper air sensor, couple other things. I still don't see it as 2700 of work but maybe at shop rates it would be. My argument there was "you don't pay yourself" (i.e., mechanics are always there and paid whether they do something or not). But realistically parts to do that work would run 500 easy and having just done drums on the 99 I wouldn't be eager to do it all over again so that was a plus to me that they did that stuff.

thanks superj that sounds about right.

 

[James Morse]

I posted the B3000 (here only so far).

 

[James Morse]

And didn't get any hits at all, priced at 8k so probably am dropping price.
Haven't advertised locally at all yet. Crappy time of year to sell.

 

[2011Supercab]

Could be improved:
Couple dash lights burned out. I have the bulbs, and not a hard fix
Driver seat spring in back broken. But seat comfortable and supportive, it does not seem to affect it.
CD works sporadically
Left rear cyl not installed (I have it) because connector frozen, so requires that short brake line. Cheap and not hard, and cyl is not leaking so not a big deal. I was just swapping them as part of putting in the new brake drums/parts.

Any time someone is telling me it's a cheap easy fix,

I say if it's such a cheap easy fix, you fix it, and maybe I'll be back.

 

[James Morse]

I suppose so. I guess I should trim down the honesty. My feeling is, you get a 20+ year old truck, if it had absolutely nothing to do on it, that would be a miracle, generally just would not happen unless it was a top-price truck and I'm not asking top book on it. People had recommended 7-9k so I said 8. There's no way I'm giving away a truck with minor things that affect driving it not at all. And basically I just did that because TRS helped me a lot with things so for this audience I am totally up front about it, plus I assume people here know how, and don't mind, doing little crap like this. Besides what fun is a truck if there is nothing to do on it?
If you get a truck from a dealer, even if they -tell- you "everything works" you can bet your life that's bs and you -will- find things wrong with it either before or after you get it and just pray it isn't something huge. This truck has nothing huge, not even big. This is nickel/dime stuff. It's the kind of thing that, if you found it, you could talk the price down a little. So if you're interested, do that. The kind of stuff I listed, you can do at your leisure, if you even want to do them. It's not like me, getting a truck that "everything works" then have to put in a rad and belt/tensioner, that's completely different, those are things you -have- to do before you can even use it, and there's none of that here.
Usually what I do is, where I can find things wrong, I know what the parts cost, and how hard it is, and I talk the price down based on those facts. The parts for what I listed, well, I'm already supplying some of them, and the others, what, maybe a couple hundred bucks tops. So in my world, you'd talk me down for that, which isn't much.
All that said, you have a point, and that is, accentuate the positive and downplay anything else. I'm not saying I won't fix that stuff, but really at this point I have the other truck to work on so I'll probably leave any last things, that I would have done if I were keeping it. If I did do them, I don't see it would really change the price one way or the other. In fact, anyone truly interested would use those to talk me down. It's a solid truck, drives nice, needs nothing, that's the bottom line. In fact since it was just inspected/registered it costs me nothing to keep it except loss of the sale price. You can't touch anything under 5k that's decent and has clean title. If you want absolutely perfect then you are talking a lot more money. It will eventually sell for what it goes for, and when I am urgent to sell I'll keep dropping the price until it sells. Really the way you are talking it's like I said the trans doesn't work but you can fix it, that would be something totally different.
Anyway thanks for the heads up and the lesson. Like I say, I just shared this stuff because these are truck guys so they know what's important and what's not, but if you want something totally 100% instead of 95%, there are lots of trucks for 20k out there or 60k or whatever you have to spend.