Help on 11 inch rear drum OR discs on Ranger/Explorer

[TwoTrackMind]

I want to improve the braking on my 98 Ranger 4x4 3.0L and wonder if anyone has suggestions. I replaced the rear axle with 8.8"rg 31spline FX4 Level II which uses bigger bearings like Explorer. Im thinking in two directions (like usual) - Either 11" drum brakes from one of the 9"rg applications or a 85-90s 8.8"rg car application, keeping the 4.5" bolt center wheels. If nothing works there, how about using disc brakes from Explorer - would I have to change the master cylinder? Also, any suggestions on bumping up the front brakes? Thanks in advance.

 

[martin]

If you're trying to improve your stopping power, I don't think spending a lot of time and money on the rear end will achieve much, the rear ends tend to lock up early even with the nine inch drums. There is a way to put the twin piston callipers on the earlier trucks but I don't know how effective they are. It's a truck, drive like grandpa.

 

[RangerSVT]

By upgrading to rear disc brakes the braking is improved drastically, especially with larger tires, after having done the disc brake swap, and having to go back to factory drum brakes, I can testify there is a big difference, and rear wheel lockup is not an issue. 95+ rangers use the same master cylinder as the disc brake explorer's do, so you won't need to change your master cylinder. As a precaution go here and check your MC from your year with a 96 explorer, they should have the same part number...
SVT

 

[TwoTrackMind]

Shoe Sale at Walmart!!

I agree with you martin. Most people would not need more rear brakes than what I have now. And I AM a grampa and I AM the person you hate to get behind in a no passing zone! My situation is that I'm always overloaded (3000+ lb in the rear) with bigger tires/lift etc and driving in the mountains gets kinda harrieee (also trying not to rearend girls turning into the mall). So while needing to replace rear brakes anyway (leaking seals) I thought it would be a good time to upgrade. I just ordered Yellowstuff pads and slotted rotors for the front (my 98 came with twin piston disc up front).

Im thinking your right too, RangerSVT. Looks like even bigger drums would not give me alot more "whoa" for the effort, especially since it doesnt seem that easy to find parts to do it. Autozone.com was down, but Napaonline showed same (and different) MC's for 98 Explorer - 96 was all different. I'm wondering also about the system between it and the calipers (proportioning valve-residual pressure valve etc). If all you did is put them on and it works, then thats probably what I'll wind up doing. Also, why would you go back to drums? I just finished putting on new 10" drum rears today so I could at least drive it, but I'm still looking to upgrade soon.

Thanks to both of you for your help.

 

[RangerSVT]

I made a decision to sell my explorer axle under my truck and I had to go back to the factory 28 spline, 8.8 ranger axle...I'm currently building a 60 for the rear with dual piston calipers from a 1 ton van, so I won't be without for long. Also switching my F350 from drum to disc brakes. There's a reason why Ford in 2000 switched the braking system on all superduties to 4 wheel disc...something to think about
SVT

 

[TwoTrackMind]

I now see your logic on returning to drums temporarily. When you first installed your explorer axle, did you do anything else to the hydraulic system besides hooking up to the calipers? Im sure discs would be the way to go, once you got them working right.

 

[Yellowsplash]

I love my exploder axle. I took the time to build it with all new bearings/seals, 4.88 gears, and a no-slip locker. Braking has dramatically improved with the disk setup. Overall, one of my favorite upgrades.

 

[RangerSVT]

To keep things equal and get a true measure of the increase in braking capacity ( I treat my ranger like a 1 ton truck when it comes to towing!), I only changed out the axle, kept the original brake booster and master cylinder. I even used the explorer flexline that was on the axle...Here is a couple shots of me using my ranger in everyday use...

Braking just with the truck, no trailer brakes, there is a definite improvement. I currently am going to hydro boost with a superduty master cylinder and 4 wheel disc, so I'm sure I will have plenty of brakes
SVT

 

[AllanD]

I made a decision to sell my explorer axle under my truck and I had to go back to the factory 28 spline, 8.8 ranger axle...I'm currently building a 60 for the rear with dual piston calipers from a 1 ton van, so I won't be without for long. Also switching my F350 from drum to disc brakes. There's a reason why Ford in 2000 switched the braking system on all superduties to 4 wheel disc...something to think about
SVT

the reason ford switched to Discs was that 4WABS is harder to implement
on drums.

And to be competetive in the market place where all the
competetion has switched.

And on newer vehicles, like 2010 Rangers they needed rear disc for MANDATED traction/stability control system requirements.

the question I pose to you is at what point after the brakes lock and the tires begin to slide will "Better brakes" help?

Yes, if you actually LOAD your truck... but frankly most here would be horrified to have someone dump a ton oc coal in their precious toy.

towing a trailer doesn't necissarily add load to the rear axle unless you get way too much tongue weight and then
you lose steering response and front braking.

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[RangerSVT]

AllanD, I agree with your thoughts, but as I can only speak of my experience with my setup, and I guess I should have added the response with unloaded characteristics....With my truck unloaded and at the time with 35" BFG MT's (then upgraded to 37" Iroks later), I had no experiences with rear wheel lockup. I used to use my truck as my response vehicle as well (for a while it was my DD and wheeler) so needless to say I drove it to extremes at times, very hard on the brakes, etc. By all means I do not condone or promote this type of driving, I am mearly stating I have tried to lock up the rear brakes and have not been able to without the fronts "chirping" as well. I have disconnected my ABS as I have had problems with it since I've had the truck, so the ABS affecting lockup was not in my case... Under normal driving as well as wet driving, I feel it's ok and well worth the swap to rear/4 wheel disc. Again, while each and every vehicle is different, I can only speak from my experiences with my 2 trucks...
SVT

 

[TwoTrackMind]

the question I pose to you is at what point after the brakes lock and the tires begin to slide will "Better brakes" help?

On the other hand, if your tires dont slide, even with anti-lock disabled, then cannot your braking be improved? Thats where Im at...

I dont carry a ton of coal. More like a ton of equipment and supplies down grades of 10% or more. Thanks for your consideration.

 

[fastpakr]

If your tires don't slide with ABS disabled, I'd be looking for a problem in the braking system rather than trying to modify it.

 

[TwoTrackMind]

Heavy sigh...

If your tires don't slide with ABS disabled, you'd be looking for a problem in your braking system. My brakes are fine. My tires dont slide for another reason - they are not big enough for the load I carry (see above). Heavy sigh...

Anyway, Thanks for everyone help. Ive decided to put explorer discs on mine as they will bolt right up. As for the front, the EBC Yellowstuff pads and slotted rotors Ive just installed are a big improvement.

Thanks again.

 

[martin]

One thing that's not been mentioned is brake fade. If you are driving in hilly areas, drum brakes will heat to a point of fading much earlier than disks. Sounds like converting to rear disks would be your best option.

 

[AllanD]

If your tires don't slide with ABS disabled, you'd be looking for a problem in your braking system. My brakes are fine. My tires dont slide for another reason - they are not big enough for the load I carry (see above). Heavy sigh...

Anyway, Thanks for everyone help. Ive decided to put explorer discs on mine as they will bolt right up. As for the front, the EBC Yellowstuff pads and slotted rotors Ive just installed are a big improvement.

Thanks again.

The Explorer axle has several other things going for it... the heavier 31-spline axle shafts and the fact that the parking brake (call it an emergency brake and I will try to slap the stupid out of someone) is completely seperate from the service brake.

In addition the Explorer parking brake is a "Non-Servo" drum brake where rotational forces aren't helping to apply the brakes and help the vehicle stop.

The meaning of that is simple, the Explorer parking brake works equally well in either direction.

Having a parking brake that'll keep you from rolling backwards is nearly worth the effort of the swap.

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