HELP! Need advice please :)

[ri06667]

Hey guys.. Ive been through the worst clutch change in history here..
very long story short, ive broken the high pressured cable going from my clutch master cyl to the internal slave in my 1992 2.3L 2wd (mazda 5speed).
ive managed to hacksaw off the end of the cable going into the "quick release" and removed the whole slave cylinder and release bearing. The quick release tip is still attached to the slave cylinder as i cannot figure out how to remove it. I would very much like to replace the extremely brittle and stiff clutch cable i just broke with something flexible like a braided metal cable if possible.. also I'd like to be able to connect and disconnect it from the internal slave WITHOUT having to remove the tranny.. Ive got the correct tool for easy disconnects with the oem disconnect.. but it just didnt work.. it was jammed up good..
Anyways I'm going to need to know...
1 how to disconnect the quick release fitting from the internal slave cyl
2 where a good place to buy a suitable aftermarket cable (ford will be expensive)
3 how to disconnect the master cyl from the broken cable.. im assuming its the same connection
attached is a picture of my internal slave and the fitting which seems to be outsmarting me
4 how to remove the release bearing from the ISC as in picture.. ive pushed pulled and twisted every way i can think of and cannot get it off to replace with the new one sitting also in picture.
the valve looks like it has a tiny little pin i could probably hammer a mini allen key through to remove pin... assuming after that it would come free, but i wanted to ask before i broke anything else.... first clutch change here..

 

[brendank]

Anyways I'm going to need to know...
1 how to disconnect the quick release fitting from the internal slave cyl
2 where a good place to buy a suitable aftermarket cable (ford will be expensive)
3 how to disconnect the master cyl from the broken cable.. im assuming its the same connection
attached is a picture of my internal slave and the fitting which seems to be outsmarting me
4 how to remove the release bearing from the ISC as in picture.. ive pushed pulled and twisted every way i can think of and cannot get it off to replace with the new one sitting also in picture.
the valve looks like it has a tiny little pin i could probably hammer a mini allen key through to remove pin... assuming after that it would come free, but i wanted to ask before i broke anything else.... first clutch change here..

1. Ahhh, the good ole' quick release. Take that plastic tool you have, and throw it as far as you can. That's about all it's worth. You need to pry the little white "bushing" towards the slave. There are some small teeth inside of the connection that hold the lines together, and the white piece pushes the teeth out so that the line will disconnect. I find that the best way to remove it is by pressing the bushing in with a couple of standard screwdrivers. Work your way around and take your time. Don't push too hard or you'll mangle the bushing. I get away without using any WD-40 or anything else of the sort, but it may help.

2. Your best bet is to get a stock replacement from a NAPA type place, or a junkyard. Used is fine - this isn't a wear part. I also doubt you'll ever find something braided with what are likely proprietary Ford fittings.

3. If you look carefully in the area where the clutch line meets the master, there is a small roll pin. Once removed, the line will pull out of the master easily.

4. I have no idea how the release bearing comes apart. It's very silly to replace the release bearing and not the entire slave. The logic behind that is beyond me.

New slaves always come with new release bearing already attached, so why not buy one? It's highly recommended to put in a new slave at every clutch replacement anyways. If not, you may find yourself taking the entire ordeal apart again two months down the road just to replace it. This would also solve the problem of the "stuck" quick disconnect.

Hope this helps.

 

[ri06667]

Didnt realise a new slave would come with the disconnect.. However, im on quite a budget and dont plan on keeping the truck more than 3 or 4 months. I actually have another ranger i could use the cable out of.. but i wouldnt want to disconnect the tranny to get at it. perhaps a wrecker might have it already removed for me, that would be pretty sweet.
As far as that white bushing, i mangled it pretty bad trying to push it in evenly with a couple pocket knives... im not so sure it would be smart to keep the one ive got.

Reason i asked about the release bearing is because it just happened to come with the clutch kit i bought... strange they would do that if i usually replace the whole slave at the same time?

 

[brendank]

I actually have another ranger i could use the cable out of.. but i wouldnt want to disconnect the tranny to get at it.

You don't need to remove the transmission to get at the quick disconnect. It's really just as simple as removing the roll pin at the master, and pressing in the quick disconnect at the slave.

 

[ri06667]

yes but as i said, i managed the white bushing on mine. i'd like to replace the fitting, not just the cable

 

[Jorley]

To remove the throwout bearing,liking at the front of the slave there is a small tab that catches the ring on the plastic piece of the throwout bearing.

You need to squeeze the plastic piece or pry it to get it over the tab.
Now about the connection, there is another type that attaches with a hairpin type connector. It's alot easier to work with. My original tranny had the external slave, when I had to replace it, the new one had the hairpin type. It was a ranger with the 2.8L, so it had to be a '84 or '85.

 

[ri06667]

utter frustration..

I took alot of pics to explain my situation with.. ive gotta remove the clutch cable that i broke, from the master cylinder.. to do that, it looks like i have to push a small pin out to release it.. I cant however figure out how to do that, ive pushed, used nail and hammer, nothing i do can budge it...
That same pin is on my slave cyl, and ive been trying to nail it out as well to remove the quick disconnect fitting, no luck with that, and ive got wide open space to work on it with

I went out to my other ranger with the quick disconnect tool, and i still cant manage to remove the cable from the slave.. i've read in the haynes manual that im doing it exactly the way they say to, but it just wont budge.. Ive soaked it in degreaser for stuck bolts, and lots of wd40, nothing i do will let me get that cable out of there.

ive still got to get the stub of cable out of the original release fitting, ive screwed a screw into the tip and pulled real hard while pushing the white lining down, still no luck
here are pics..

 

[Jorley]

The roll pin is of a split design. If the nail you are using goes to far inside the pin it spreads it making it that much tighter. Try a little bit bigger one or better yet, cut the end off of one that is the same diameter as the pin. The same for the master.

 

[Taragon]

When you buy a new slave, it comes with the black part you are trying to remove from the old one and a new throwout bearing. So no worries there.... toss it, its not needed.

Go to the nearest salvage yard, and tell them you need a clutch master cylinder. Insatll it, and be done. It will take you abotu 10 mins...a lot shorter time than trying to drive out the roll pin. Most times (in my experience) the master breaks before the pin EVER moves.

There is no CABLE way to do this....you have to use the plastic line.

The reason the kit comes with a new bearing is cause SOME people (not me) dont replace the slave if it isnt leaking. But I will tell you this...in my experience, they always leak AFTER you do a clutch job, so I go ahead and replace them anyway to be safe...since the tranny will have to come out again.

Also, the tab you are being shown...thats on an FM146 slave.. and SOME M5OD slaves. The rest use a ring you need to push the bearing back a little to expose and remove. And since I can see what your bearing looks like...yours has the ring that needs to be removed.

 

[blkmazda90]

You will regret putting that old slave back in your truck.

Buy a new one. I got one for 70 bucks at my local parts store

 

[ri06667]

Ok so if i buy a new master, i just leave the plastic clutch tube attached to it, no need to screw with the pin.. And im pretty much forced to buy a new slave too i guess.. I suppose for the sake of doing it right the first time this is what i should do.. I was just trying to avoid it at all costs because im basically flat broke right now.. I'll pull the whole master off my other truck. however, my problem of the connection to the slave remains.. I went out and tried my best to unhook the quick disconnect on it and still couldnt do it, with the proper tool..
Perhaps I could get a second person to pull the cable twice as hard, i just wouldnt want to break that one too... I soaked it in wd40 pretty good.

As you said, Taragon, I have to remove a ring? Im not sure what you mean by this.. Ive got an m5od, and it had a white ring that i was supposed to be able to push towards the cyl to unlock the clutch cable. I pushed it in as far as possible and it never came out, nor did the cable. On my other truck ive got a different trany, but same quick release connector. I used my tool to push the white ring in, and still nothing comes out..
As far as I can tell, there is no other ring that could be removed? *confused*

 

[Taragon]

The rings dont matter if you are replacing the slave.

Use a small flat tip screwdriver to slowly push the white ring towards thr trans on yoru old one. Sometimes you ahve to push it in as much as you can, then push the line back in till it pushes the ring back out to free thigns up.

Patience pays here.

Or like I said...go to a salvage yard and get them to sell you a master....shoudlnt be too expensive.

 

[ri06667]

thanks for the advice.. salvage yards here, youve gotta remove your own parts from the junkers... so i'd be stuck removing the cable from a slave either way.. i didnt use too much in patience when i tried earlier, i just assumed that since i had the special tool i was supposed to have that it should just work.. i'll try with the screwdriver..
should i depressureize the system first? will that make this any easier (other than obvious spill cleanup)?

 

[brendank]

thanks for the advice.. salvage yards here, youve gotta remove your own parts from the junkers... so i'd be stuck removing the cable from a slave either way.. i didnt use too much in patience when i tried earlier, i just assumed that since i had the special tool i was supposed to have that it should just work.. i'll try with the screwdriver..
should i depressureize the system first? will that make this any easier (other than obvious spill cleanup)?

The system isn't pressurized at all unless you press down on the clutch pedal, so no, it won't help. The quick disconnect also has a valve, so it won't spill any fluid once it's disconnected.

 

[ri06667]

just an update.. got the truck back together in one piece... however i pulled the master and cable out of my other truck.. other truck has a 2.9 and is 1990, mine is 2.3 and 1992... everythign looks identical as far as the master cyl goes.. but i cant get it to stay hooked up to the clutch pedal..
one push down and the plunger pops off.. sooo frustrating

i dont know what i could have done wrong here, that tiny little plastic bushing that fits into the hole on the clutch plunger side pops right on, far as i can tell its not broken. ford quoted me $20 just for a new one, and now they're closed so i cant really do any more tonight unless i missed something obvious.