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Help Me Before I Set My Truck On Fire!!!


Idle Air Control Valve

Fuel Pressure Regulator

what he said, the idle air control valve if bad when unplugged will CONSIDERABLY smooth out the idle of the truck
 
could be sticking when cold, and it frees up some when warm, it may still be acting up but u just never knew what it ran like with a good one, you just dont know whats wrong with a engine until u really start lookin LOL
 
I have a similar condition with my '87 2.9 B2. It would not run at all (on cold days) after initial start up. I replaced the engine temperature sensor (not the temperature gauge sensor), and the problem improved considerably, although still there to a smaller extent.

CraigK
 
I have a similar condition with my '87 2.9 B2. It would not run at all (on cold days) after initial start up. I replaced the engine temperature sensor (not the temperature gauge sensor), and the problem improved considerably, although still there to a smaller extent.

CraigK

ECT is cheap but important part of the EFI. If you still have a lingering problem, worn distributor shaft bushings, bad TPS, ACT, and TFI can all make it run poorly even if they are not to the point where it won't run at all.
 
while checking for vacuum leaks, also spray carb cleaner on the intake gaskets, i had a bad seal on mine and it had similar problems, $6 plenum gasket fixed it.

and its more likely to choke and almost die when you find a leak, its not as flamable as gasoline
 
I think it may have something to do with my alternator or wiring. It only keeps my truck charging at 12.6 volts. i have put 3 different alternators in and at first they allways keeps the truck charging at 13.4 volts. THE ALTERNATORS START TO KEEP IT CHARGED AT 12.0 VOLTS OR SO FOR SOME REASON. MAYBE A SHORT. I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO, I FEEL LIKE GIVING UP THIS CRAP IS GETTING REAL OLD AND I DON'T HAVE ALOT OF MONEY.
 
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I have a similar condition with my '87 2.9 B2. It would not run at all (on cold days) after initial start up. I replaced the engine temperature sensor (not the temperature gauge sensor), and the problem improved considerably, although still there to a smaller extent.

CraigK

Where is the engine temp sensor?
 
where are you measuring the charge? at the battery or alternator, sounds like you doing it at the battery.
 
where are you measuring the charge? at the battery or alternator, sounds like you doing it at the battery.
Im checking it at the battery but i was told that the battery should be at 13 to 14 volt while the truck is running and 12 volts when its off!
 
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Ive replaced the FPR and The alternator still no difference!!
 
You need professional help.

A voltage drop test around the charging circuit, specifically.

You know there is a charging problem; fix this before going after the other one (they may be very closely related).

If you don't understand Ohm's Law and the Kirchoff Loop Rule, you simply CANNOT pull this off yourself.
 
actually wouldnt setting the truck on fire warm up the truck and help it start?

just kidding
 
The rear end differential just went out.
I thought it was the drive shaft because it started clunking but it was the differential i pulled the cover of it and the some of the teeth were broken and gone. Thank god i have a spare truck for parts!!
 

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