Help for my build....?

[ShotnVA777]

Also I would like to say with the cam required to make a high hp 2.3, will result in no torque, and horrible idle. It will be hard to make a sleeper of an na 2.3. I love all motor 2.3's but you can't easily do sleeper. You need good exhaust flow, so your best bet is a quiet muffler and a cutout.

Oh and disregard the sleeper thing. I'm Going to get wheels, have it painted, etc... Just a junkyard/budget build!

Don't think I could ever get it dialed in? Or what? What would be YOUR recommendation for a 160-200hp Lima? PRICE WISE! The absolute cheapest way.

 

[ShotnVA777]

Also I would like to say with the cam required to make a high hp 2.3, will result in no torque, and horrible idle. It will be hard to make a sleeper of an na 2.3. I love all motor 2.3's but you can't easily do sleeper. You need good exhaust flow, so your best bet is a quiet muffler and a cutout.

I think I'm reading it right! Lol! Are those your compression ratios of the motors? I would LOVE to have a 11:1 or whatever I saw!

 

[Kenneth S]

It takes lots of $$$ to get to 200 hp without a turbo, 125-150 hp can be done on the cheap. After 150 hp you'll need to spend lots of money on a really good cylinder head to get 200. If you want 200+ hp on the cheap a 302 swap would be the way to go.

 

[Mikel89us]

A 200 hp 2.3 is easy, go to bo-port's website they sell cam kits that require no machining. You will spend at least $1000 to have the hp you want though. My mustang has a closed chamber 4 plug head, shaved .150", with combustion chamber reworking ( would be higher if I left it stock) and I'm running .027" head gasket. Mine probably only makes 120hp, because I run the stock cam. The issue with a "junkyard build" is always the cam. Even the best 2.3 stock cam is only good for 130 hp with good head work. My compression ratios were done for good torque and mileage. But combined with the right cam they will also make for good hp. I suggest you go to www.moddedmustangs.com and search the 2.3 mustang forums, there is so much valuable information on there. One of the guys who I trust most on there is OHC230. He is an engineer, and has been building these motors for 20+ years. He has a supercharged 2.7 striker, putting down over 500 hp and torque. And it gets 25 mpg still. His next project is another 2.7, N/A. I'm looking forward to it. He's talking about variable cam timing.

 

[ShotnVA777]

OK... Everything is kind of coming together now... As said previously, the motor will be built OUTSIDE of the truck and then dropped in. So I'm pretty much just gathering parts, I'm going to pick up a 4.10 rearend tom.

I would like to know about the transmission/flywheel. Would a lighter flywheel help on this small motor? Less rotational mass right? Kind of like the stock fan...?

ALSO, what's a good clutch choice, or do the stock clutches hold up pretty well on a N/A 2.3?

THANKS FOR ALL THE GREAT INFO THUS FAR - Y'ALL ROCK!!!

 

[Mikel89us]

Stock clutch will hold about 140 ft lbs of torque. And a lightened flywheel does not help mileage.

 

[ShotnVA777]

Stock clutch will hold about 140 ft lbs of torque. And a lightened flywheel does not help mileage.

??? I'm building a high revving, wide open 95% of the time, "TRACK TRUCK"!

I need POWER, not gas mileage! Lol!

I'm grabbing some 5.0 injectors here soon for my setup in the truck NOW!

BACK to the question! 140ft lbs of torque is correct? How much HP? AND WILL LIGHTING THE FLYWHEEL HELP THIS TRUCK RUN FASTER? I'm guessing it HAS TO, due to rotational mass, a lightened flywheel has ALWAYS increased the power in EVERY vehicle ive done it to!

 

[Mikel89us]

It doesn't help hp. It helps accel. If you're looking for race, then yes, lighten the crap out of it. But if you're drag racing a heavy flywheel helps with launch. Clutches don't go by hp holding pressure. Its torque that matters. Generally below 200 hp the torque is close to the same.

 

[ShotnVA777]

Its going to be a track car... I heard, on this thread, somewhere, that "you can make 150hp easily, but then, after that, you're spending big bucks" or something of that nature.

150hp will suffice in this light truck at the track I race at! Its mostly a REALLY tight circle, so being able to go into the turns without braking is a must to ever compete there! But after you those turns, you better have some HP to get going down the backstretch and then come into the next turn (A LOT FASTER!).

I THINK I've stated it before, but I'm not sure? I'll say it again though.... I have the suspension under control.

I JUST NEED TO KNOW HOW TO GET 150HP out of the 2.3!!! Haha...

The rules of the track is it MUST have a valid inspection and tags, so this WILL be my Daily Driver. Yes I will have bucket seats, bug I'll still have carpet and a head unit too! Lol

Will that "Pick n' Pull" list that was posted on here (PG. 2 or 3?) get me to 150hp???

 

[Mikel89us]

150 hp isn't possible na without money. Its simple.

 

[ShotnVA777]

150 hp isn't possible na without money. Its simple.

Never said it was going to be free! Haha....

... Just asking the CHEAPEST way to get to 150hp.

How much HP will I get out of that Pick n Pull list? Dialed in?

 

[Mikel89us]

120, 130 if you're lucky.

 

[Kenneth S]

On the "pick-n-pull" build I listed if you want to spend the extra $$ get bigger valves, a bigger than stock roller cam, some good port work on the exhaust ports, and around 9.5:1 compression so you can still run 93 octane pump gas you should hit the 150+ hp mark you want. If you want to run race gas go to 10.5:1 to 11.0:1 compression

 

[ShotnVA777]

120, 130 if you're lucky.

Cool beans... That's more than I have now! Haha.

I'm picking up an '88 Mustang 2.3L Longblock today for $80!

Found me a good deal on Craigslist! Now I can start my build on the stand. ...

 

[Kenneth S]

These guys also have some interesting stuff for the 2.3 http://www.raceeng.com/c-1-ford-2300-2000.aspx