Help for my build....?

[ShotnVA777]

Your pick-n-pull shopping list:
1) 1989 - 1994 2.3 short block
2) 1979 - 1988 d-port cylinder head
3) 1989 - 1994 roller cam, and roller followers
4) 1977 - 1980 Duraspark distributor

You could carburate a 8 plug, no distributor hole block "but" the intake would have to be custom made (can be expensive if you can't build your own). There is a stand alone ignition module for the Ford EDIS (distributorless ignition) "but" it's also not cheap, and you would have to program it. In other words you can make the same power with the single plug, distributor engine for alot less $$, and headaches. Another plus on the single plug is that carbed intake manifold setups are readily available. Since you don't want to do a turbo you could run a 75 hp shot NOS system (which would be different) provided you use forged pistons. Then just swap engines once it's built.

Thank you SO MUCH! This is EXACTLY what I need to know, to the T!

Can you or someone answer THIS question! How is this guy running THIS setup? Its like coilpacks or something, but its def. distributerless RIGHT? WHAT IS HE SPORTING?

 

[Mark_88]

you could also use the duraspark II from an 87 or 88 2.0...that's what I've got in my truck...I think...but it uses the ignition module (free in Junkyards) with the 2 plug connector so you'd have to get the module, distributor, and maybe splice some wires to the ignition...

Mine has worked fine for the most part...other than the one time the distributor gear decided to stop and I blew my muffler off trying to start it...

 

[Kenneth S]

Thank you SO MUCH! This is EXACTLY what I need to know, to the T!

Can you or someone answer THIS question! How is this guy running THIS setup? Its like coilpacks or something, but its def. distributerless RIGHT? WHAT IS HE SPORTING?

Looks like he spent the big bucks, and the trouble to go to the stand alone EDIS (distributorless) ignition.

This is the 1979, and later carbed intake for the Mustang (if you have power brakes the booster gets in the way of the throttle so you can run the carb with the float bowl facing backwards).

This is the cast iron OMC boat intake (this is the intake I used on my 2.3) that mounts the carb sideways (got it off of ebay for $40.00).

 

[Mikel89us]

Thank you SO MUCH! This is EXACTLY what I need to know, to the T!

Can you or someone answer THIS question! How is this guy running THIS setup? Its like coilpacks or something, but its def. distributerless RIGHT? WHAT IS HE SPORTING?

Looks like he bought the esslinger ignition kit. I want to do a setup similar to this using my 8 plug head.

 

[Kenneth S]

The Esslinger ignition kit $865.00 http://store.esslingeracing.com/cart/electromotive_crank_fire_ignition_kit-details.aspx

An awfull amount of money just be distributorless!

 

[Mark_88]

This is the 1979, and later carbed intake for the Mustang (if you have power brakes the booster gets in the way of the throttle so you can run the carb with the float bowl facing backwards).

That's the intake I have on mine currently...the booster was a bit in the way where it would contact the throttle bracket if the motor rocked...but I managed to actually bend the throttle bracket just enough to clear the booster and allow for a bit of rock N roll...worked out fine...was even better when I had the thinner booster, but upgraded that without thinking of the consequences...

 

[Kenneth S]

Esslinger makes a nice intake for the 2.3, a little pricy $189.00!! http://store.esslingeracing.com/cart/2_3_cast_iron_head_holley_manifold-details.aspx

 

[ShotnVA777]

Looks like he spent the big bucks, and the trouble to go to the stand alone EDIS (distributorless) ignition.

This is the 1979, and later carbed intake for the Mustang (if you have power brakes the booster gets in the way of the throttle so you can run the carb with the float bowl facing backwards).

This is the cast iron OMC boat intake (this is the intake I used on my 2.3) that mounts the carb sideways (got it off of ebay for $40.00).

That setup looks much simpler than the stock 8 plug head.... Do you get any "real" power with this upgrade or is it just for the simplicity of everything. There's a Bayliner Boat for FREE on CL right now, FREE, with the 2.3l motor! I'm about toto contact him and see if he will let me pull the head and manifold.

 

[Kenneth S]

That setup looks much simpler than the stock 8 plug head.... Do you get any "real" power with this upgrade or is it just for the simplicity of everything. There's a Bayliner Boat for FREE on CL right now, FREE, with the 2.3l motor! I'm about toto contact him and see if he will let me pull the head and manifold.

I like to keep it simple (the bad thing about the Esslinger distributorless setup is what happens when the box craps out? =$$$. Plus you'd probably be stuck on side of the road somewhere). On the 2.3's letting it breathe is the key to power (bigger carb, etc). If you are running a 2.3 with a stock carb setup then swap it over to a Holley 350 cfm 2bbl you should see a very noticeable increase in power (provided you have it dialed in right). A better carb on a 2.3 usually gives you the most power gain per $$ outside of a turbocharger.

If it were me I'd grab the whole engine out of the boat unless the lower end is blown up (outside the carb/intake it's basically the same engine that comes in a Ranger).

 

[ShotnVA777]

I like to keep it simple (the bad thing about the Esslinger distributorless setup is what happens when the box craps out? =$$$. Plus you'd probably be stuck on side of the road somewhere). On the 2.3's letting it breathe is the key to power (bigger carb, etc). If you are running a 2.3 with a stock carb setup then swap it over to a Holley 350 cfm 2bbl you should see a very noticeable increase in power (provided you have it dialed in right). A better carb on a 2.3 usually gives you the most power gain per $$ outside of a turbocharger.

If it were me I'd grab the whole engine out of the boat unless the lower end is blown up (outside the carb/intake it's basically the same engine that comes in a Ranger).

Guy already got rid of all of it... I was too late >_<

I DID get to install a rear sway bar today though, off a Bronco II.

 

[Mikel89us]

I want to let everyone know you do need to let it breathe. But you can over carb an engine. I've done the math, and a 2.3 turning 9000 rpm running at 90% efficiency (none of ours are that good, 80-85% is normal volumetric efficiency) the proper carb size is 280 cfm. It is proven you can make more power with a slightly smaller carb than one that is too big. I suggest the 350 Holley, but it is in reality far too big. The stock carbs can make a good amount of power. You can re jet them, if you find a few sets of jets you can drill them out to different sizes to make up for fuel needed for more power. Trust me, I ran a large duration cam at 8000 rpm using a stock, rejetted carb.

 

[adsm08]

What would a NA 2.3 do with 500 or 650cfm?

Probably build an ark, collect two of every animal, and then spend two years floating around the world because of the magnitude of the flooding.

 

[ShotnVA777]

Your pick-n-pull shopping list:
1) 1989 - 1994 2.3 short block
2) 1979 - 1988 d-port cylinder head
3) 1989 - 1994 roller cam, and roller followers
4) 1977 - 1980 Duraspark distributor

The Esslinger ignition kit $865.00 http://store.esslingeracing.com/cart/electromotive_crank_fire_ignition_kit-details.aspx

An awfull amount of money just be distributorless!

Soooo... How about this! Would this be POSSIBLE?!

1. I stay with my CURRENT 2.3L shortblock (beef up the rods/pistons)

2. Then I get the D shaped cylinder head off that ancient car... Throw in the roller can and all that.

3. MOST CRITICAL!!! Can I use ONE of my coilpacks? Beefed up? Since that's what the truck runs on NOW? Sure, to advance ignition timing, it'd take a tune... But I could beef up just ONE with an Accel Coil and some hot ass wires (Need HP)?

I'm just thinking to myself, how this wouldn't work since its essentially the same thing? I just throw a carb on to compensate for the fuel and air! The faster and hotter I can run that coil, the richer I can go and get more power! Right?! Or am I just thinking like I'm high right now?

NOW, if it is possible- any tips/details???

Like... Which side would I use? Exhaust or intake Coil??

This is probably not possible AT ALL!!! lol. ..

 

[Mikel89us]

If you want to stick with coils, leave the 8 plug head. There isn't a stock performance difference between them. The 4 plug head has a better upgradeable performance value. As for pistons and rods, are you looking to make over 450 hp?? If not don't bother with new rods. All you will need is good pistons, hyperutectic pistons will do the job for about 200 hp. After that you will need forged. Also don't run hypers over 7500 rpm. Running one coil doesn't work like you would hope either.

 

[Mikel89us]

Also I would like to say with the cam required to make a high hp 2.3, will result in no torque, and horrible idle. It will be hard to make a sleeper of an na 2.3. I love all motor 2.3's but you can't easily do sleeper. You need good exhaust flow, so your best bet is a quiet muffler and a cutout.