hello & lift ?

[twoll86]

ok i have a 92 xplo and a 89 b2. my plans for these are to be dd's and have fun on the weekends so here is my plan so far;


B2
5in james duff(or 8 in skyjacker) 3 in body
4.0 swap with 5 speed all from a expo
headers with dual flowmasters with no cats
tbb35 swap with 44 knuckles with 4.56's
8.8 rear with 4.56's
painted black with 15" mickey thompson classic locks and 37" x 12.50 cooper discovery stt's



Explo
8in skyjaker and 3 in body but was thinking the 5 james duff would be allot better
rebuilt and performance a4ld with better converter
headers with dual flowmasters with no cats
tbb35 with 44 knuckle with 4.56's
SOA swap in rear with 8.8 and 4.56's
36x14.50 mickey thompson baja claws radials
not sure on rims yet

 

[TheOne]

good ideas u got there only one prob i found

i wouldnt bother with an a4ld period from what iv heard they are garbage all around whether rebuilt or not...but i had an a4ld in my last b2 and i drag raced (with what drag racing u can do in a 2.9L b2) and drove over 40 000 km on it without a hitch...

i would however like to know about these 44 knuckles? whats that all about?

 

[twoll86]

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2007/44knuckleswap.htm
for the knuckle stuff i want the stronger hubs and better brakes and i am goin to try to do the 8 lug swap and just use wheel spacers to chang the rear to 8 lug

well the reason for the a4ld is my wife cant drive a 5 speed so im goin to rebuild it using the #K15. Combo Kit and torque converter with furnace brazed fins and a hd front pump from ford
http://www.transmissioncenter.org/a4ld.htm

 

[LittleBigFoot]

37s might be pushin it a little.

 

[twoll86]

whys that
with the 44 knuckles it should be hella strong

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

To go with an 8" suspension lift and a 3" body lift on a BII and run large tires, you will almost have to run full-width axles. And you'll need at least a true D-44 front.

I have 7" of lift on my choptop. 2" body and 5" suspension. I'm running 33" tires. The top of the cab is over 6' off the ground. The bottom of the cab is over 2' off the ground. I intend on running 35" tires once I get my front axle swapped and that's as big as the truck is going. I tried running some 31's on it and the ride was scary.

D-28 axles are weak. I always thought it was just because they are prone to throwing U-joints. That is, until I snapped an axleshaft running 33's and a locker. The ears on the stub ripped off and the shaft itself broke off at the splines. I'm only running a 2.9L. A D-35 does have larger diameter shafts, but they're still not quite as beefy as a D-44. If you run a locker and 37" tires on a D-35, there's a good chance you'll break axleshafts too. Those become your weak link if you put D-44 knuckles on. If you do alloy shafts then, your ring and pinion become the weak link.

 

[1989F150]

I have a question, maybe playin devils advocate. But a few things popped out at me.

1) If these are both daily drivers, why gear them so tall. Im not an expert so please correct me if im wrong but with 4.56's at high way speeds wont you be tearing through that gas tank.

2) To go along with number 1, wont those huge tires also help kill any chance of decent gas miliage you will get. If gas jump back up to $3 and $4 a gallon how is that going to be.

Just wondering.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

According to the chart in the tech pages, 4.56 makes for a highway gear for that tire size... I know I would want 4.88 or 5.13 for that tire size though unless I had a 4.9L or larger under the hood.

And yes, even with the proper gear ratio, the rolling resistance and such with large tires like that is going to cost fuel economy.

 

[97fordrunner]

X2 on the axles being the weak part in the system, D35 hubs are actually pretty decent when you put on the jeep hubs and you drive with a soft foot offroad which with those tire sizes you need to cause no matter what hub you have in there the stub shaft is still gonna snap or u-joints are gonna blow the caps etc. just my opinion. BTW post pics of the progress we all love pics for sure.

 

[LittleBigFoot]

And think about the lift you'd get in the very end.

8" suspension + 3" body. 11" of "lift." Lets say you're runnin 31s now and you go to 37s. That's an extra 3" on each side of the tire, giving you 14" of lift.

That's a lot of height at a stock width.

Ok, you get some wheel spacers (I don't reccomend) or some wheels with some gnarley cool offset to go with your 12.5" wide tires, your wheel bearings will cry and your ball joints will hate you. And you still only get a few inches of width.

I'd say on either of the rigs, go for a 5" or 6" suspension lift. That'll give your axles room to articulate. Cut the fenders if you want to fit any bigger tires, or throw on a body lift.

I've got a 3" BL on my SAS'ed ranger and I've got nothing bad to say about them, but I know there are many many nay sayers.

37s are going to be hard on the 35ttb, like I said before. If you run some mild dirt roads you'll be fine, but pinch a tire between some rocks, gas it a little too much and you'll be twistin shafts left and right.

You could also go the solid axle route, but that's a little more intense then a lift kit.

You'd also be suprised at just where some lockers will take you, but you'd also be suprised at what you can snap while locked and geared.


If you can dream it, and logic and reason agree, you can do it.

Good luck

 

[ThatGuy]

I wouldn't go any bigger than a 35" tire on a TTB axle. That's putting too much on the pivot brackets, ball joints, bearings, and axles. I have 35s on mine and am seriously considering downsizing to 33s. The only reason I have the 35s is because I'm doing a solid axle swap very soon.
I have a 6" lift on my Explorer and love it! I really couldn't see going to an 8" + 3" BL. That seems like it would be uncomfortable to drive or wheel. I wheeled mine this weekend for the first time and other than the long-ass schoolbus stance, it done a pretty good job. I did have to back up a few times to make some of the turns but all-in-all it went well.

 

[BlackBII]

You're missing soemthing very vital to the TTB and getting it to function properly...

Steering.

With 8" of lift, you're going to have get REAL creative.

I'd never lift one more than 5", there's no point, and the steering just gets worse and worse....Just do a body lift or cut the fenders if you need bigger tires.

I have 4.56's and 33's. IF I were to ever go with 37's, I'd get 5.13's.

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2008/steering_tech.htm

 

[4x4junkie]

Ok, a little bit of misinformation in this thread...

A D44 front does not have stronger axleshafts than a D35. Sure it's true that a D44 has a larger splined end, but just in front of that end is a neckdown that is smaller than the D35's shaft (which is mostly a moot point anyway, as the u-joint is normally the weakest link in the shaft, and they both are exactly the same here).

37" is not an unrealistic size tire to run on a light BII (or a std-cab Ranger for that matter) if you're not pushing a big V8 under the hood. I've been running 35s now for a number of years without issue and have been contemplating moving up to 37s when they're done. The HUUGGE price gap I don't understand between 35s and 37s is what I'm having a hard time jumping though, so I'm not fully decided on it yet.

5.13s for sure on the gears, even with the 4.0L.

You're missing soemthing very vital to the TTB and getting it to function properly...

Steering.

With 8" of lift, you're going to have get REAL creative.

I'd never lift one more than 5", there's no point, and the steering just gets worse and worse....Just do a body lift or cut the fenders if you need bigger tires.

I have 4.56's and 33's. IF I were to ever go with 37's, I'd get 5.13's.

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2008/steering_tech.htm

Probably the most important post in this whole thread.

 

[twoll86]

Ok, a little bit of misinformation in this thread...

A D44 front does not have stronger axleshafts than a D35. Sure it's true that a D44 has a larger splined end, but just in front of that end is a neckdown that is smaller than the D35's shaft (which is mostly a moot point anyway, as the u-joint is normally the weakest link in the shaft, and they both are exactly the same here).

37" is not an unrealistic size tire to run on a light BII (or a std-cab Ranger for that matter) if you're not pushing a big V8 under the hood. I've been running 35s now for a number of years without issue and have been contemplating moving up to 37s when they're done. The HUUGGE price gap I don't understand between 35s and 37s is what I'm having a hard time jumping though, so I'm not fully decided on it yet.

5.13s for sure on the gears, even with the 4.0L.




Probably the most important post in this whole thread.

thats what i was think about the 35 as far a strength and with th 44 knuckles i figured it would be stronger (i was under the impresion a 35/44 hybrid gave you the best of both worlds ) and a 44 shouldnt be that much stronger in stock form granted there is more aftermarket parts for them to make them stronger but dont plan on doin a lot of extremely hard wheeling


as for the steering i was think of fliping the steering to the top of the arm and using the super lift kit but dk yet.

that why i was running everything by yall 1st

do ya'll think the duff kit has mor BANG for the buck

 

[twoll86]

You're missing soemthing very vital to the TTB and getting it to function properly...

Steering.

With 8" of lift, you're going to have get REAL creative.

I'd never lift one more than 5", there's no point, and the steering just gets worse and worse....Just do a body lift or cut the fenders if you need bigger tires.

I have 4.56's and 33's. IF I were to ever go with 37's, I'd get 5.13's.

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2008/steering_tech.htm

thanks that was very helpful