• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Hello. I am trying to fix my 96 Ranger.


Maybe you have something clogged up in your fuel tank, have you blown it out?
 
Yes, the fuel pump is running when the key is on. I changed out the coil pack for the left side of the engine as I did not see a spark jump from spark plug when cranking with I pulled spark plug line off the coil. I checked two of the lines. The other coil, I just replaced 2 months ago before blowing my head gasket and I got the spark when turning the key. So, $60 more, took out those spark plugs and made sure they were clean as they should be since they are brand new, and put the coil on and lines. Still no start.
 
No. I have not since I do not have a tester. I may go buy one at Auto Zone for a rental and hook it up. I am not sure how to do it, but I have seen a few videos on use with other cars. I easily see where the valve is.

My problem with the manifold by the throttle body is that I have one of the eight screws that is stripped at the head so I cannot get it off with my regular socket.

Going to have to buy a tool my brother had that I borrowed to get that nut off to take off the manifold to get to the fuel injectors if I decide to mess with them.
 
I have my bed pulled off again to see the fuel pump. I verified that the new coil is sparking and it is. We are confident we are getting spark. Starting it with the starting fluid shows it wants to turn over, but that it is just not getting fuel. I went and looked at the relays again and the fuses and was unable to find a burnt fuse or a bad relay, unless there is one that I am overlooking and did not check as I did not check every fuse or every relay switch in the box.
Pulling the vacuum line off of the Fuel Pressure Regulator is dry...no gas comes out. I am wondering if the fuel injectors are getting fluid in the rail. I am not sure now if I hear fuel pump kicking on when the key switch is switched to on. I did reset the connector for the fuel pump. I want to get in those lines and inspect. I need to connect my battery and listen again to that fuel pump now that my bed is lifted up to give me access to the fuel pump. Typical afternoon thunderstorm in New Orleans is slowing me down now. Doing this out in my parking lot of my apartment complex. I miss the days when my family owned a Goodyear tire dealership and had a 9 bay shop. :annoyed:
 
Fact: Fuel pump is not getting power. I hear nothing when I turn the key. And I have my hands over head on the fuel pump.

So that would be a the reason why I have no pressure at the Schrader Valve. (I assume this). Another reason is this Auto Zone pieces have faulty valves as the rubber gaskets inside the valves are all out and that can be a reason for my no pressure reading is because I am working with garbage.

I opened my fuel pump up again and I noticed the gasket given to me was not proper so I took the one off of my old one and put it below the fuel pump and gas tank and put the new one between the fuel pump and the large round plastic nut to hold the fuel pump to the gas tank. I tightened as much as I could by hammering the large nut around, but I never got it to come to a stop and I was starting to chip off the nut ridges so I stopped thinking that would be tight enough. I connected the fuel lines back and tried to start after reconnecting my battery.

Now I am thinking about that inertia switch. Somehow, I believe that switch is cutting off my power to the fuel pump, but there is no way to reset the switch since the red button has not come out and is still in the depressed position.

Or....

Could it have something to do with that computer looking thing near the inertia switch. I never touched it , but maybe I did something to it when taking off my dashboard to fix the heater core. Remember, this is when the fuel problem began so I am again coming back to that below the dash area on the passenger floor board.

EEC POWER RELAY? What is it and where is it located?
 
Last edited:
Now I am thinking about that inertia switch. Somehow, I believe that switch is cutting off my power to the fuel pump, but there is no way to reset the switch since the red button has not come out and is still in the depressed position.


Pay attention...we've already covered this area of concern!!

Just to completely remove the inertia switch as a problem, disconnect the plug and use a jumper wire to connect the two wires of the plug. The inertia switch has a ball that makes a connection between the two wires when it is working properly, so jumpering does the same thing.
 
Ok, this morning I bought a cheap probe to test to see if electricity is running through the line. At the inertia switch, there is no electricity running through it. I pulled off the box right next to the Inertia Switch which is the Airbag Module. It had power running through it.

I did not know that the ECC on the Ford is called the PCM. Now I can find what fuses I need to check on.

I watched a 45 minute video on Fuel Pumps of different varieties of cars and learned that the ECC on Fords controls the Inertia and Fuel Pumps. So, I am hoping to replace the ECC, but not first verifying that it is out. Now I need to check the fuse for the PCM, be right back.
 
Last edited:
Computer

...I am hoping to replace the ECC, but not first verifying that it is out. Now I need to check the fuse for the PCM, be right back.
If you turn the ignition to the RUN position does your Check Engine Light come on?
Don't crank it...just the RUN position.

If the light comes on this would indicate the PCM..ECM...EEC is powering up to some extent.

Make sure the grounds wires are all connected to the chassis of the truck...the computer needs those paths to make things work.

Good luck with it today, I have to crash now.
 
And by the way....If you're getting Spark...I would say the computer (your EEC) is powering up and working to some extent. Perhaps go after those relays or wiring. Sometimes the wiring on the underside of the Power Distribution Center in the engine compartment can go sour with intermittent connections. The PDC houses those major important relays you've been talking about.
 
I checked those PCM fuses and could not find anything wrong with any of them. A few had some discolorations to the metal inside the fuses, but all metal was intact and showed no signs of being melted or broken. The only thing I am unsure of is that diode as I cannot see through it. I will do as you said about the check engine light next.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top