Hello. I am trying to fix my 96 Ranger.

[usasoccerboy]

I replaced the EEC/PCM and nothing. Now I have a dilemma to either go back and pay the core charge of around $90 to get my old PCM back and be stuck with an extra EEC and still not have a truck that starts.

Again, the issue is that the fuel pump is not kicking on. I unscrewed the inertia switch from the bracket, took out the wiring to the inertia switch, shook the inertia switch so as that the ball bearing inside the switch activates the red button to disengage, repressed the button, put the wiring back on to the inertia switch and still nothing.

I may just need to bypass the inertia switch to get the fuel pump to kick on, but I am not sure how to do this. I have tried bypassing the inertia switch by sticking a wire in 2 of 3 spots trying all different possible combinations and I still cannot get that fuel pump to kick on.

At a loss. Stuck. Angry.

 

[usasoccerboy]

Ok, I calmed down, went back out, got out my light probe, grounded it, and with the inertia switch connected to what is wired to it normally, I put my probe onto the pink/black wire and got the light to come on each time for approximately 2 seconds, everytime I turned the key. The pink/black wire in the diagram in the Haynes manual shows it going directly to the fuel pump. Now, I do not hear the fuel pump kicking on, so, I need to make a new wire to replace the old now, but I am not sure where it actually terminates. This means I will probably have to pull down the dash again and trace the pink/black wire and track down the breaking point, or run a completely new wire until I see where it actually connects to the fuel pump at the gas tank.

Another hypothetical reason for all of this is bad gas. Did my neighbors pour water in my gas tank?

 

[usasoccerboy]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fkjgK9W6qTk&feature=youtu.be

 

[HAPPY+RANGER+GUY]

Fact: Fuel pump is not getting power. I hear nothing when I turn the key. And I have my hands over head on the fuel pump.

Are you sure the "new" fuel pump is a good one? Maybe you have power and ground back to the fuel pump connector but the pump is just bad. Stranger things have happened.

 

[cvar]

You can always use a different temporary wire, if your factory wire is suspect.
Disconnect the fuel pump wires, and then string a temporary wire (lamp cord?) directly from your inertia switch to the fuel pump. Does that work?

The pump PNK/BLK wire gets its power from intertia switch (output) PNK/BLK wire, and BLK wire is ground. You can bypass the inertia switch by taking pump power from the switch's (input) DK-GRN/YEL wire instead.

See 1996 Ford Ranger Engine Wiring diagrams are at
http://imgur.com/a/ieQrs

Is there any fuel getting to the fuel filter?

 

[usasoccerboy]

You can always use a different temporary wire, if your factory wire is suspect.
Disconnect the fuel pump wires, and then string a temporary wire (lamp cord?) directly from your inertia switch to the fuel pump. Does that work?

The pump PNK/BLK wire gets its power from intertia switch (output) PNK/BLK wire, and BLK wire is ground. You can bypass the inertia switch by taking pump power from the switch's (input) DK-GRN/YEL wire instead.

See 1996 Ford Ranger Engine Wiring diagrams are at
http://imgur.com/a/ieQrs

Is there any fuel getting to the fuel filter?

Thanks for the wire diagram.

I trace the pnk/blk wire from my inertia switch to the back of my steering wheel where I lose track of where this wire is going. As you can see in the video, the pnk/blk wire is lighting up my probe when I turn my key but I checked underneath the truck and the wire on going to the gas tank fuel pump and my wire is dead. So, I need to either trace the wire to its breaking point, or do as you said, and Just run a wire to the fuel pump and bypass the break.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGKSDKUdHck&feature=youtu.be

 

[HAPPY+RANGER+GUY]

Yeah..run the temp wires and verify pump comes on. If so, I'd probably just run a new one and move on.

 

[usasoccerboy]

Thanks. Would you happen to know the gauge of the wire and how best to splice and connect? What electrical connectors work best?

 

[HAPPY+RANGER+GUY]

wire repair

Thanks. Would you happen to know the gauge of the wire and how best to splice and connect? What electrical connectors work best?

It's a critical circuit...so you want to do it right. You can just take a snip of the existing wires to the store...not sure of exact gauge used but stick with what came stock.

This will give you a good idea of what is needed (not a mechanical splice):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVpDzbND8sY

Be careful with the routing of the new wire(s) as well. You want to protect as much as possible and have it well secured to avoid coming loose and getting damaged in any way. Keep it out of the environmental conditions as much as possible.

Good luck!

 

[HAPPY+RANGER+GUY]

non-critical

And for the non-critical circuits...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZ809uTlENE

These techniques will work fine for many applications.

 

[cvar]

First run a temporary wire, to see if your truck starts. Did it?

Doesn't your PNK/BLK wire run inside the long wire-harness in the driver's side frame rail, beside the hydraulic brake line? You've traced it to the pedals so far? From there, it must go outside the firewall, and then down towards the fuel filter area, into that long harness that goes to the fuel pump.

You can trace it in the other direction too, starting at the harness near the fuel pump, and going towards the firewall. Do you have a 1996 Ford wire harness diagram?

 

[usasoccerboy]

First run a temporary wire, to see if your truck starts. Did it?

Doesn't your PNK/BLK wire run inside the long wire-harness in the driver's side frame rail, beside the hydraulic brake line? You've traced it to the pedals so far? From there, it must go outside the firewall, and then down towards the fuel filter area, into that long harness that goes to the fuel pump.

You can trace it in the other direction too, starting at the harness near the fuel pump, and going towards the firewall. Do you have a 1996 Ford wire harness diagram?

The Diagrams that I have just show the Inertia Switch => Fuel Pump. They do not show how the wires are running under the dash or to the floor board, etc.

I have not tried the temp wire yet, as I am still debating where best to cut the two parts of the dead wire or find a way to bypass the dead wire by running alongside the good wire and try to get into a connection to some port.

I did some low voltage wire as a job several years ago, but that was for Walgreens and CVS stores, not my Ford Ranger. I assume that I cannot just pull on wires like I did on those jobs to run my new wires from my old wires. I do not want to brake another wire. So, before doing a rush job, I want to do it right. I am debating whether to take my seat out as I see wires running under the seat going out to what I think is my gas tank.

I know the fuel pump wire goes from my inertia switch to behind my dash behind my speedometer and then I guess it goes along the back of the dash to the drivers side floor board, running under the carpet to I think underneath the drivers seat, to outside the truck along the frame to the gas tank.

I have power at the dash behind my steering wheel. There I lose where it goes because I have not separated the tape and bundling of all those wires. I may need to undo all of this to get to and then retape and bundle as I go.

My car is also outside in a parking lot of an apartment complex so I have neighbors cars on top of me. It makes it difficult to work and so I have limited amount of room to do this and it is hot, so I wait till it cools down. After all, New Orleans in August, not good.

 

[usasoccerboy]

It's a critical circuit...so you want to do it right. You can just take a snip of the existing wires to the store...not sure of exact gauge used but stick with what came stock.

This will give you a good idea of what is needed (not a mechanical splice):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVpDzbND8sY

Be careful with the routing of the new wire(s) as well. You want to protect as much as possible and have it well secured to avoid coming loose and getting damaged in any way. Keep it out of the environmental conditions as much as possible.

Good luck!

And for the non-critical circuits...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZ809uTlENE

These techniques will work fine for many applications.

Great Videos. Now I feel a lil bit more confident in how to approach this. Only issue I see is the shrink rapping near the gas tank. Fire and gas makes me scared.

 

[usasoccerboy]

Ok, we ran a ground line from the fuel pump relay and connected a wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the Green/Yellow line coming out of the Power Distribution Box from the Fuel pump relay, and started the truck. She started and immediately we shut it down.

I was tracing the pink/black wire to a box on the driver side behind the dash and I saw that the line went in there hot, but did not come out on the other side. This box, had many wires connected to it and they seemed to run down the floor board, out the vehicle below the drivers seat floor.

 

[usasoccerboy]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdXJ-1iEkmQ&feature=youtu.be

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHde73uQ0FU&feature=youtu.be