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Heater smells like coolant.


killj0y

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2011
Messages
1,532
City
Edinburg, TX
Vehicle Year
1996
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Manual
My credo
Fix it till its broke!
But only the heater not the A/C. But I cannot find any leaks for the life of me and I don't want to go pulling the dash, especially for nothing. not too long ago my heater control valve blew and i put a new one on. after that My heater has always smelled like coolant. Any ideas where to look? could it be the valve somehow?
 
Pressure test the system to see if it holds pressure. More than likely you have a seeping heater core. It will only get worse if you don't address it.
 
Yeah, pressure test would tell you if the system is holding...but if it happened just after changing the heater control valve maybe there is a small leak there...I've never worked on them...haven't even seen one...but if there is a way for coolant to get past a seal then that could be where the smell is coming from. You probably know essentially how it works so think it through or get diagrams of the part and see if that is a potential problem...
 
the heater valve that blew could hav ebeen leaking off pressure internally or externally allow coolant and pressure to bypass going to the heater core. Putting a new heater valve in pushed all the coolant thru the heater core and allowing mor epressure to get in there and could be causing it to seep, or it could just bee a small leak at the heater valve itself even tho I would lean more towards the heater core myself.

Get a pressure tester to see if the system is holding preessure or if you can find any leaks under the hood.

About 6 months ago I picked up a heater valve for my truck at advance auto because I was swapping all the hoses out as generally taking care of my truck. Well I put it all together and fresh coolant and everything and 3 days later the wife told me the truck was leaking something, I went out to inspect and the heater valve was actually leakign where the shaft to raise and lower the internal valve is located. I put the old one on and returned the new one to advance auto.
 
the heater valve that blew could hav ebeen leaking off pressure internally or externally allow coolant and pressure to bypass going to the heater core. Putting a new heater valve in pushed all the coolant thru the heater core and allowing mor epressure to get in there and could be causing it to seep, or it could just bee a small leak at the heater valve itself even tho I would lean more towards the heater core myself.

Nice theory... 1 problem though. Pressure wouldnt change with an internally leaking heater valve. The entire coolant system is at the same pressure, only the volume would change.
 
Nice theory... 1 problem though. Pressure wouldnt change with an internally leaking heater valve. The entire coolant system is at the same pressure, only the volume would change.

You also wouldn't smell the coolant if it's internal.

Just like turning up the radio fixes engine and drive train noises, running straight water will fix that coolant smell problem.
:icon_rofl:

Outside of the engine side firewall connecting hoses spraying a leak inside, the only way you can get a coolant smell inside the cabin is via the heater core.
You can by-pass the heater core and run for a few days, if smell goes away......it's the core.
 
Lots of good points, I'm not against just changing that sucker out, but damn from what I understand I damn near have to remove the entire dash to get to it that's the real issue...can I even take a peek at it without removing the dash?

also I have noticed since the heater valve blew and has been replaced I've had to top off the rad every so often. And before the incident the heater blew hot a sin almost immediately now it hardly blows hot and it takes 15 minutes in the road at a decent speed before it starts working, at which point I just say f#uck it because it reeks of coolant and that can't be good....
 
Lots of good points, I'm not against just changing that sucker out, but damn from what I understand I damn near have to remove the entire dash to get to it that's the real issue...can I even take a peek at it without removing the dash?


The gen3 dash is easy to pull, it shouldnt take more then an hour your 1st time.
 
Heater core! Mines been leaking for about 2 years now and I just found the leak last week. I hope snoranger's right! F-in hate pulling dashes.
 
The gen3 dash is easy to pull, it shouldnt take more then an hour your 1st time.

I hope your right since I fell like I'll probably have too :( anything else i should change out while back there? besides looking for obvious signs of problems like rust? Any decent guides on removing it? I remember i searched and found a guide or two but without pics :(

Heater core! Mines been leaking for about 2 years now and I just found the leak last week. I hope snoranger's right! F-in hate pulling dashes.

Me too I haven't pulled any ranger dashes but I don't want to find out how annoying it is :annoyed:
 
Well winters over but I know I still need to fix this so wondering if there are any guides or maybe bolt/screw location pics?
 
Try the on-line manual...it has many pull apart diagrams...and if not...I'm sure a Haynes manual would show it...not that big of a deal to pull the dash, but very time consuming...take lots of pics in case you forget where things go!
 
Before pulling out the core I would check the hoses at the firewall, a small leak there can spray inside.

Pressure testing the system with core connected and then core by-passed would tell you for sure if the core needs to come out.

You could also just by-pass the core and drive it for awhile to see if smell goes away, rinse the core out with fresh water to eliminate coolant that might still be leaking.
 
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