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2.3L ('83-'97) Heat guage


Jojo5769

Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2020
Messages
14
City
Fort Wayne
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Automatic
I have a 96 2.3 liter automatic. My temp gauge goes to almost got when idling. When I lick my AC on it goes to the line. I have done everything coolant wise. So stumped!! Can anyone help please??? Also my cigarette lighter keeps popping the fuse. I traced the wires but none are bad!! Please help!!
 

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At least it's not a 2.9 or it'd be dead. Have you changed the thermostat?
 
I have changed the thermostat, coolant temp sensor, temp sending unit, flushed radiator, and no leaks or burning it. I'm so confused. It did overheat 2 days ago and busted a heater core valve. I do have heat but when AC goes on temp rises on the gauge. AC is cold as ice.
 
Yeah the bearing is fine. No whining or leaking there. Runs pretty good but the gauge reads that high. Water pump is pumping.
 
Yes, but there's a procedure to test it. It sounds like your clutch died to me.

Gimme a min, ill find it.
 
Try to spin it by hand with engine cold, then allow it to come up to temp and try again. It should have a good bit more resistance when hot.
 
+1 ^^^

Also, after vehicle has sat overnight, pop the hood BEFORE starting engine
Try to spin fan, it should be COLD LOCKED, hard to spin
Start engine and let it run 30seconds or so, you should hear the fan at first then that sound will go away in 10 seconds or so
Shut off engine and spin fan again, should be easy to spin, unlocked
After driving home one day, engine fully warmed up, shut off engine and pop the hood
Spin fan, it should now be like COLD LOCK, hard to spin

If fan spins the same regardless of when you test it, clutch is bad
 
To me it sounds like a plugged radiator, my '97 has never gotten up there since I've had it (only since December) and don't have A/C so I can't load it harder, and don't have an auto... but still running highway on a 95F day the engine temp never got above 180F as read by the OBD II port

If you've changed the coolant temp sensor and thermostat without change it sounds like radiator, wouldn't the A/C not work right if there was no airflow across the radiator?
 
How hot is the upper radiator hose? It should stay cold for a while until the coolant in the block reaches thermostat opening, temperature, and then get hot all of a sudden as the coolant flows. That indicates the stat is restricting flow to encourage quick warmup, and then opening when appropriate.
tom
 
In my experience, if you use a thermostat from the auto parts store, you are waistingg your time. If you didn’t use a motorcraft thermostat, I would replace it again.
Which sucks.


I’ve changed thermostats on my cars/trucks half a dozen time. Every time I bought one at advanced auto or the likes, I had to replace it a second time with a motorcraft one from rock auto.
 
+1 ^^^

Also, after vehicle has sat overnight, pop the hood BEFORE starting engine
Try to spin fan, it should be COLD LOCKED, hard to spin
Start engine and let it run 30seconds or so, you should hear the fan at first then that sound will go away in 10 seconds or so
Shut off engine and spin fan again, should be easy to spin, unlocked
After driving home one day, engine fully warmed up, shut off engine and pop the hood
Spin fan, it should now be like COLD LOCK, hard to spin

If fan spins the same regardless of when you test it, clutch is bad





It wasn't it. There is nothing left unless it's a cracked block on the inside
 
Do you have milkshake oil? Coolant loss? Oil loss? Oil pressure?
 

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