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i sanded and cleared mine. used a file to take down the nubs and the lettering, then sand paper on a block. started at maybe 220 and worked up to 6-800ish then cleared over them with an automotive clear in an aerosol can. its been 2 or 3 years now and they are starting to yellow but it should be easy enough to sand and clear them again.

btw, you do not need to polish them out smooth before you clear over them. the clear will fill the scratches and voids and leave a crystal clear and smooth surface. oh and ive got maybe $10-15 in them, just a can of clear and some sand paper. more time and muscle than anything.
 
went to walmart here and the mothers kit is 56 bucks so its a no go, i have some 220 gator grit sand paper and some 600 grit wet or dry sand paper could i just use the 600 on it since i only have 5 bucks now after paying bills.
 
Where I work we just use the same stuff we use to wax and buff paint. Works well enough.

Word! Wet sand with 1000 grit, then 2000 grit, then 3000 grit Trizac, then white pad and compound, then black pad and grey compound........

That's what I do at work, but at home I have had decent luck with plain ole Mothers aluminum polish and a rag.
 
Sylvania makes a kit. My grandpa bought one (advertised to do 1 vehicle) for grandma's 98 taurus wagon. Worked great, had plenty left so he did his 07 edge. Worked great again... called me up and said he still had a hell of a lot left, so I did my truck. Worked great. There's still about 1/3 of the liquid buffing compound or whatever left in the package.

Their kit is basically the compound, a UV prohibitor, and like 400, 1000, and 4000 grit sandpaper.
 

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