Having weird power issues with my '88 2.9

[jrquint]

I've got a '90 2.9 Ranger doing the EXACT same thing... any updates?

 

[177CIOfPureLove]

Likewise on my 88' stx, I am just about at my wits end... updates?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

It kinna sounds like it is not retarding the timing under a load and the 88 dont have a knock sensor but 87 did I just wonder how the computer knows when to retard the timing and I read you can clean the map with electrical connector cleaner or maybe you can pour some isopropel alcohol in it and lightly blow it out with air or the vacuum will just pull it out. just thinking about it using vacuum and throttle position could possibly tell the computer when to advance or retard the timing I would think the dynamic response or goose test would show that you did the KOER test right

 

[IMenriched]

DisturbedMXer8
how goes the fight??

I too had been fight this power loss....intermittent runnablity.
eventually I figured out that the in-tank pump was chief suspect.

today I worked up the nerve to tackle the task...Its my DD...so my hesitation was not get iinto this repair and end up have to be down for a few days. and its warmer now, in a pinch I could pedal the 4-5 miles to work...if the need arose.

at the risk of sending several wrench warriors to the wrenching....my particular case...was that the rubber hose to the stem pipe form the top of the pump was deteriorated....gone , yep not there, MIA...the in-tank pump was shooting a gape of about 1/2 in. Leaving the main pump to do most of the work. Not saying that this is the cure for everybody...just what I found.

What I noticed over course of time, was that it tended not to have "issues" when the tank was full, or nearly so....if the tanks was below 2/3 - 1/2 more "issues' flared up.

I would have to say that the in-tank pump looked to be original. 149K

the top ring did relinquish its hold....but it wasn't in any kind of condition to remain in service....A local service station/ repair garage bailed me out...they had extra new lock rings. PTL!! otherwise I prolly would had to get a new tank to get the lock ring.

I say that so, if other who are going to tackle this...make sure you get a new top lock ring too. and fear not just keep tapping on the ring...it'll give up. mine was nearly unnoticeable/recognizable for all the rust....just soak it down with your juice of choice. and really best to use a brass punch...for no sparks

the inside of the tank looked remarkably good, after draining it down...after a swabbing down the inside to remove the remainder of the rubber hose.

I did remove the bed....it wasn't the easiest to break loose the bed bolts...but certainly glad to have the tank held up during the clean up process.

 

[177CIOfPureLove]

My lift pump is brand new and functioning.... Going to try a MAP sensor today...

 

[DisturbedMXer8]

Hey guys, thanks for all the replies. Still having an issue, and all of my research is pointing towards a restricted cat. The timing of the power loss (when I was dumping fuel out the exhaust), the fact that more load makes it worse, hills make it worse... most instructors at my school say it's probably a melted cat. Here's the new problem: Can't get that top bolt off of the front of the cat to check it out. It's the top bolt of the three that connect it to the exhaust manifold. Any ideas? The frame gets in the way, the exhaust pipe itself gets in the way... everything gets in the way. I've already had to cut one bolt out, and break my arms getting the rest out... and now this one is all that's keeping me from checking this thing out. Any help on getting to this thing would be much appreciated. I'm not going to leave the cat off or do anything illegal, if it's bad I'm going to get a new one. just need to get it off to see if it's bad.

 

[low_five]

sawzall. then weld in a new one.

 

[DisturbedMXer8]

Unfortunately neither of those are options for me at the moment. No worries though, got the truck up on the lift at work and found a much better access point. Just need to wait for a good opportunity to get it up in there again to get it off. Boss can't be there and it can't be too busy, haha... anyways, when I take it off, I'll let you guys know what's up, and I'll post pics if it really ends up being the cat.

By the way, symptoms are still the same (loss of power under load, gets worse with increased load/throttle/ambient temp, most noticeable under 3k RPM when I can hear my exhaust), with one new one: I'm hearing an odd ticking noise from right around my glove compartment in the cab. Can't hear it in the engine bay, can't hear it outside the truck, can't hear it in Neutral or Park, but it's annoyingly noticeable while driving down the street. It sounds like injectors or a valve tick (gawd forbid)... but like I said, it's only while I'm driving, and I can only hear it near the glove compartment, under the dash on the passenger side. Any ides on that one? I'm sure it's unrelated, but it's friggin' annoying.

 

[out cast]

Watching, as my '88 manual is doing the very same thing, except up to about 3500 lags and after that it takes off. Turned timing down to about 10-12 and no result, actually got worse... turning it back up to like 14 ish

 

[DisturbedMXer8]

Well, I've noticed that I still seem to lack power everywhere, I just can't hear it anymore at higher RPMs. The more I open the throttle and/or the more load that I put on the engine, the worse it gets, and the longer it takes to clear up. It's not my timing, it's not anything in my secondary ignition system, not my fuel, not my intake, not my vacuum (at rest, at least. Haven't tested it while driving). Everything I'm looking at points to a melted cat, especially considering this all started happening when my FPR went bad and dumped fuel through my intake and exhaust for a few weeks. Hopefully I'll have the kitty off by tomorrow and I'll let you guys know.

By the way, I apologize if I'm repeating myself a lot. Just trying to make things as clear as possible for everyone.

 

[low_five]

Step 1. Drive up hills on dark night
Step 2. Pull over and observe if cat is glowing red
Step 3. Sawzall
Step 4. profit

 

[Tedybear]

Suggestion to at least check out 1/2 of the cat's. If you've got the duel type? drop your muffler and look in at that end. Should see a very nice honeycomb with a light coating of black soot. note the keyword: LIGHT coating. If you see sections that are plugged up? Then it's time to replace it.

The front upper on the pipe..what a treat that one is. We got ours off using 1/2 a can of PB blaster...fitted in a couple of swivel adapters with an extension/socket combo. Can't remember the exact order of it LOL. However we threw an impact on it. Needless to say? She broke free.

General question: I've seen plugged cat's...and busted up cat's... I've never ever had to deal with a melted one?? The honeycomb is made from a ceramic base material and I've never had one melt? (I've seen 'em glow in the dark more then a few times LOL..but that's not melting, that's partly plugged and the engine running to rich)

S-

 

[DisturbedMXer8]

It would only glow red if I am currently running rich enough to heat it up to that extreme, which I'm not doing any longer... but I was for a time, and again, that's when I started to notice my power loss. I just didn't have the knowledge at the time to make the connection.

I'm hoping to find something like this:

Got the bolt off at work today. Going to take the cat all the way off tomorrow after I get home from school:

1) Remove Cat
2) ???
3) Profit

Wish me luck =].

 

[DesertMike345]

The only time I ever had a problem like that was with bad spark plug wires that broke down under load. I changed out the wires, cap, rotor, and plugs and it ran great.

Mike

 

[DisturbedMXer8]

Read through the whole thread, you'd see that I've already replaced all those for general maintenance.

Just got the cat off, it looks BRAND NEW. Not a single crack, not one little thing that looked wrong in any part of it. My heart is broken. Back to ground zero.