I'm just fed up with the 35! I just cracked the pass side beam bracket, its pouring fluid out of the left side axle seal now. And I cant get the damn alignment right with out a 400$ super runner package that doesnt completely solve the problem!
I know your one of the guys to look up to when it comes down to knowing their shit! I was doing home work on the D44 knuckle beam swap, but then I came across these axles for the right number. I hate driving my truck right now its unsafe.
what are your likes and dislikes about the SAS? I was going to go with Duff coils and Duff shocks and hope it rode like a Duff lifted EB which I drove and loved.
make me some offers on the front suspension
Lol, the way the lift industry sells their TTB products leaves much to be desired, no doubt.
However you may still have one more option available (besides an axle/suspension swap): the Skyjacker pt# FA600 drop pitman arm, which has 2" more drop than the one you're probably using now. This should at the absolute least make it tolerable if you're running 6" of lift (what's typical with SJ 8" coils on Supercabs).
As for
my likes, I don't really have much of a preference either way, both are close equals when it comes to getting around offroad (or even onroad for that matter). If I was building a go-fast racing/prerunning machine, then I would definitely gravitate toward the TTB (or even std IFS). A rock buggy built for competition would likely do better with a solid axle, but these are performance extremes where the differences between the two's potential would only then become obvious. For any less-demanding use such as recreational trail riding I find both work rather well. Any vehicle I get that came with a solid axle or TTB, I'd most likely just keep whatever's already under there (provided it's decently strong anyway, which for me automatically excludes D28s and D30s).
Where I do find most TTB issues is like I mentioned above, the aftermarket suspension industry just has so much wrong on them, and nobody seems to really care. This just isn't any fault of the TTB, it's tons of ill-fitting and/or low-quality parts made for it (many of which are sold for the wrong application too, commonly pitman arms and other steering components).
See if this page helps in sorting out your issue if it's with the steering (which it sounds like it is)
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2008/steering_tech.htm
If it turns out you don't have a practical solution available, then I would say go ahead with the SAS. This will let you have the taller lift without as many steering headaches, as this opens the door for additional options such as using Hi-Steer kits.
If you do use the EB D44 though, just be sure to upgrade it's shafts to ones that accept the larger 5-760X u-joint like the D35 uses, otherwise you'll be more limited as to the tire size you can reliably run on it
Hope that helps
(and there you have it, those Duff arms definitely won't work on your current crossmember)