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Havent seen any one ask this?


Ranger302

Active Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2007
Messages
25
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Automatic
I'm currently running a D35 with 6" brackets and 8" coils in a ex cab 4.0 with the Duff radius arms w rod ends. I came across a EB D44 and 9inch. Can I go buy the duff D44 radius arms, simply bolt the rod ends into my Duff X member thats already there, and fab a track bar and go?

Dont know whose been paying attention to the duff product line but my hopes are to run the ranger coil bucket with the EB 5" coils, EB arms and EB long travel shocks.
 
I think the Duff D44 arms would be much too long. I know people have done what you propose using stock-length D44 arms and a Skyjacker crossmember, although that would leave you dealing with the bushings vs the rod end brackets on your Duff crossmember. You probably could modify the stock arms so you can put your rod ends on them though.

Just an FYI, the EB D44 has weaker axle shafts than your D35... the EB 9" is also 28 spline and is not really an upgrade (or downgrade) over your stock rear (this assuming you have the 8.8"). Both can be upgraded with some $$$ thrown at it though.
 
I'm just fed up with the 35! I just cracked the pass side beam bracket, its pouring fluid out of the left side axle seal now. And I cant get the damn alignment right with out a 400$ super runner package that doesnt completely solve the problem!

I know your one of the guys to look up to when it comes down to knowing their shit! I was doing home work on the D44 knuckle beam swap, but then I came across these axles for the right number. I hate driving my truck right now its unsafe.

what are your likes and dislikes about the SAS? I was going to go with Duff coils and Duff shocks and hope it rode like a Duff lifted EB which I drove and loved.

make me some offers on the front suspension :icon_cheers:
 
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Im going to be doing a SAS with a D30 soon. My likes are the looks, stronger then my D28, got it for free, came with a D35 for my rear that has a locker in it, has 4.56 gears. My dislikes I dont know yet.

Im going to be using leaves because I've never done this before plus I got them for only $10.
 
Those D44 arms are nearly twice the length of the TTB Rod End Duff arms! I'm currently running them now! Indicated by the Red Arrow, you can see where the TTB Duff arms were previously mounted:

DuffArms2.jpg


DuffArms1.jpg


Hope this helps some

Nem
 
I'm just fed up with the 35! I just cracked the pass side beam bracket, its pouring fluid out of the left side axle seal now. And I cant get the damn alignment right with out a 400$ super runner package that doesnt completely solve the problem!

I know your one of the guys to look up to when it comes down to knowing their shit! I was doing home work on the D44 knuckle beam swap, but then I came across these axles for the right number. I hate driving my truck right now its unsafe.

what are your likes and dislikes about the SAS? I was going to go with Duff coils and Duff shocks and hope it rode like a Duff lifted EB which I drove and loved.

make me some offers on the front suspension :icon_cheers:



Lol, the way the lift industry sells their TTB products leaves much to be desired, no doubt.
However you may still have one more option available (besides an axle/suspension swap): the Skyjacker pt# FA600 drop pitman arm, which has 2" more drop than the one you're probably using now. This should at the absolute least make it tolerable if you're running 6" of lift (what's typical with SJ 8" coils on Supercabs).

As for my likes, I don't really have much of a preference either way, both are close equals when it comes to getting around offroad (or even onroad for that matter). If I was building a go-fast racing/prerunning machine, then I would definitely gravitate toward the TTB (or even std IFS). A rock buggy built for competition would likely do better with a solid axle, but these are performance extremes where the differences between the two's potential would only then become obvious. For any less-demanding use such as recreational trail riding I find both work rather well. Any vehicle I get that came with a solid axle or TTB, I'd most likely just keep whatever's already under there (provided it's decently strong anyway, which for me automatically excludes D28s and D30s).

Where I do find most TTB issues is like I mentioned above, the aftermarket suspension industry just has so much wrong on them, and nobody seems to really care. This just isn't any fault of the TTB, it's tons of ill-fitting and/or low-quality parts made for it (many of which are sold for the wrong application too, commonly pitman arms and other steering components).
See if this page helps in sorting out your issue if it's with the steering (which it sounds like it is)
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2008/steering_tech.htm

If it turns out you don't have a practical solution available, then I would say go ahead with the SAS. This will let you have the taller lift without as many steering headaches, as this opens the door for additional options such as using Hi-Steer kits.
If you do use the EB D44 though, just be sure to upgrade it's shafts to ones that accept the larger 5-760X u-joint like the D35 uses, otherwise you'll be more limited as to the tire size you can reliably run on it

Hope that helps
(and there you have it, those Duff arms definitely won't work on your current crossmember)
 
Nemisus thats exactly what I was looking for! Do you have Duff coils and buckets also? Hows the ride and flex?

I have a buddy that runs to the auctions and I work on his sale cars at night, I have him looking for a 4BT bread truck and thats my plans for this junker...


4x4junkie thats exactly what I'm saying, I dont know if you remember my old truck but I had a 380 horse Splash 5.0/AOD/1354 with a duff lift and 33's. It was fun no doubt! I never did more then 30 off road with out feeling like I was hurting it. But I never got so many tickets in my life! now I need my license to work and I want a bomb proof daily driver...

But while I have your attention if I put a 700r4 behind the 4bt what t case is suitable and will mate stock. I was thinking of finally making use of this old divorced cast iron NP...
 
I was also just thinking how cool it would be to get 2 sets of D44 duff radius arms and get the weld on wedges on a 9" and run the same setup with the rear axle....
 
Nemisus thats exactly what I was looking for! Do you have Duff coils and buckets also? Hows the ride and flex? ...

The coils are JD EB 5.5" VR that give approx 8" of lift for the BII

The coils are the JD dual shock mount buckets that were offered in their 6" system the release awhile back! They have been modified to fit the EB coils!

The ride is awesome and the flex is amazing considering they are VR coils! I hope to get it on a ramp soon to see how I score!

As for getting a second set.... I've also considered this! Would be a nice set up if done right! However.... Since then JD has come out with a complete bolt on 4 link suspension for the ford 9" to run under an Early Bronco!

5360-4link.jpg


I'm thinking with some modification you could make that work under a Bronco II frame! Although the cost, as with anything JD, is a bit pricey!

Nem
 
Nemisus thats exactly what I was looking for! Do you have Duff coils and buckets also? Hows the ride and flex?

I have a buddy that runs to the auctions and I work on his sale cars at night, I have him looking for a 4BT bread truck and thats my plans for this junker...


4x4junkie thats exactly what I'm saying, I dont know if you remember my old truck but I had a 380 horse Splash 5.0/AOD/1354 with a duff lift and 33's. It was fun no doubt! I never did more then 30 off road with out feeling like I was hurting it. But I never got so many tickets in my life! now I need my license to work and I want a bomb proof daily driver...

But while I have your attention if I put a 700r4 behind the 4bt what t case is suitable and will mate stock. I was thinking of finally making use of this old divorced cast iron NP...

I'm not real familiar with what all came behind GM's 700R4s, but I do know the NP 203, 205 and 208 were among ones that came on the TH350 (the 700R4's predecessor). I think the NP231 or 241 might've been used somewhere along the way too. Of those, I think either the 205, 208 or 231/241 would be the best swap into a RBV. The 205 is strongest, but much heavier than the others, and has a dismal low gear. The others have better low gears. I'm not sure if any of these particular cases will require you to notch the frame or not (I'm thinking not). Many of these cases were passengerside drop (all up to at least '88), so if you use a driverside diff axle, you may need to look for a Ford version of the same case.
 
I did not see that 4 link on duff.com how much is it? it looks SWEET!

I was thinking what ever T case is in a S10 blazer would work... But thats 2nd in line, Axles first...

I actually got stuck so bad the other night that a dodge 12 valve on 35's couldnt get me, and I had to have my cousin drag his bob cat down... hah! If theres any local Philly people I found some nice holes in the N/E that sucked up mine on 35's, broke a hub and now the front rear hums at like 10mph, think either the maf or O2's got it cause it runs like balls now... LOL sell it for 3,500 or a 97 mark VIII
 
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I called Duff about that 4 link system and it wont work on the full width 9's due to where the pumpkin sits! They may eventually make one for the full with but its not in the works!

It would also take some modication to make work on a BII! The cost for the whole set up is just a little under 3k! Seems very expensive for what you could make yourself!
 

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