Has anyone tried to..

[kimcrwbr1]

The ford 2.8 is definately a different animal that is for sure. They like to run rich on the idle air adjustment it gives you much better pedal on the upper end. I get between 16 and 17 mixed driving 50/50. I tried every combination of timing advance ported or manifold vacuum. I havent messed with jet size I have a 1.08 venturi 2150 with #46 jets electric choke and the air pump is still working. I did everything to make the computer work correct my guess is the computers are all so old no two are the same from the rebuild shop. My next step is to put on a good cat and try and get the EGR to open slightly to cool down the combustion chamber using a vacuum switch for a older type egr system it is just controlling the egr valve is problematic without a tps and map to monitor it. I believe you can do anything to the 2.8 and it will still run but be careful about running it to lean you will cook the valves and a piston or two.

 

[small ranger]

Well I used to get 18 mpg with 33" tires, 4:10 and no overdrive. If you have no smog regs where you live, a druasparked engine will out perform any computer controlled engine with smog stuff. removing the smog stuff from these engine is very easy. You are correct a sort of 2.8 will never use a 350 cfm holly to its max potential but if tuned correctly it will not run you motor rich!

just my experience having owned my truck for 10 years.

 

[John Smith]

The ford 2.8 is definately a different animal that is for sure. My next step is to put on a good cat and try and get the EGR to open slightly to cool down the combustion chamber using a vacuum switch for a older type egr system it is just controlling the egr valve is problematic without a tps and map to monitor it

I picked up and extra intake manifold from a friend and and have plans to make some mods to it we'll see how it works out. I haven't decided what to do about the air pump yet..I may just put it on the shop shelf for a while..

My first mod is to streamline the upper intake..(remove and weld up all vacuum ports).and maybe remove the plenum split tween the bores we'll see how that works out...and I'll be operating on ported vacuum only at this point

the engine bay may look somewhat sparse when I'm done..

good comments from all..

 

[John Smith]

Well I used to get 18 mpg with 33" tires, 4:10 and no overdrive. If you have no smog regs where you live, a durasparked engine will out perform any computer controlled engine with smog stuff. removing the smog stuff from these engine is very easy.

In my county after 20 years...no longer want me to drop by the smog station..

 

[drgrcr]

Hello John, I have a 83 Ranger 4X2 with a C3 and 2.8, P225/75r15 tires and 3.08 axle. Did the dura spark dist. and 1.08 2100 ford carb, with 47 main jet and the metering rod booster. Removed the egr and air pump and all the old feedback computer wire harnes, and yes the engine compartment looks a lot better. The little beast gets 18 mpg around town smoking like a freight train. Typical 2.8 valve stem seal problem.

I am getting ready to pull the engine and freshen it up, buying a lot of stuff of epay...stock cam for $40 bucks, set of .030 pistons for $70, looking for a set of 2.9 valves, gaskets, bearings, timing gear, and then out it comes. Plan is to get the compresion up to a true 9.5 to 1, some port work and a free flowing exhaust. After the engine rebuild the C3 is coming out and a A4LD is going in and then the rear axle will be replaced with a 3.73.

It just what I do...

 

[John Smith]

good to hear all of that...

I've been working on my brakes some..and exhaust..and of course just enjoying the holiday season. Neat to hear about your 2100 success. Sounds like your combo is working well. I bought 4 more 2100 carb cores yesterday, and found in the bunch a mid-64" 2100 truck carb 1.02..with factory manual choke..it's all there except one of the choke rods..so I'll freshen it up to put on soon..makes that choke side a little cleaner..I also picked up a few manifold pieces to see what mods may work in the future..happy wrenchin'

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/album.php?albumid=2073&pictureid=8254

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If you dont have the t-stat housing for the intake manifold that is a nice upgrade. Some 85 B-IIs came with a two piece housing with the 1" bypass hose fitting you can pull the thermostat out of the lower hose. I just plugged the bypass off the manifold with a spark plug in the hose I couldnt get the fitting out to put a plug in it.

 

[John Smith]

I must admit..

I haven't really studied this water system on the 2.8L, If you have this 2 piece upper housing or have your early housing modded to take a thermostat, (essentially making it like the Offy intake) couldn't you just remove the bypass hose entirely?..(block off the lower housing outlet of course)..

If you dont have the t-stat housing for the intake manifold that is a nice upgrade. Some 85 B-IIs came with a two piece housing with the 1" bypass hose fitting you can pull the thermostat out of the lower hose. I just plugged the bypass off the manifold with a spark plug in the hose I couldnt get the fitting out to put a plug in it.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

You need the bypass to circulate the coolant when the t-stat is closed that allows the engine to warm up properly and not overwork the water pump. The two piece housing has a 1" bypass and when the t-stat opens it closes the bypass at the same time. It is designed for the 2.8 and even with a 195 stat in it mine never goes past half on the guage even when it is hot out. I stumbled on mine at the bone yard I believe it came out of a 85 B-II with A/C.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Its on the far right