Hard to shift into 1st and reverse once warm

[DennisH]

So as the title says my 94 3.0 ranger is hard to shift into first and reverse once it gets warmed up. It'll take a 15 mile drive or so before it does it. When coming to a stop I have to press the clutch a time or two and it will slip into first. A mechanic said it's the preasure plate that's worn. I've already bled the clutch 3 times and it still does it. Is the mechanic right? They were all replaced several years ago. I did the clutch, throw out bearing, preassure plate pilot bearing and slave cylinder. Tell me what yall think. Thanks!

 

[RonD]

Shifting into 1st and Reverse is usually done when wheels are not turning, and since you can't disconnect the transmission from the wheels, it also means the output shaft gears in the transmission are not turning.

The clutch disconnects the engine(flywheel) from the transmission's input shaft(clutch disc).

The flywheel and pressure plate spin at the same RPM as the engine, when your foot is off the clutch pedal the flywheel and pressure plate are the "Bread" in a Clutch disc sandwich, clutch disc being the meat, lol.

When you are stopped with engine idling a 700rpm and push the clutch pedal in and try to put shifter into 1st, the clutch disc(input shaft) must come to a complete stop, because transmission is at a complete stop.
The 3"-4" synchromesh "gear" must slow down that 10" clutch disc to 0rpms for shifter to engage 1st gear.
So if there is any rubbing from flywheel or pressure plate on the clutch disc it can get very hard to engage 1st, or Reverse.
When wheels are moving so it transmission so meshing gears becomes much easier.

So yes, it could be you are no longer getting full travel on clutch Master or Slave, so clutch disc is rubbing slightly.
Bleeding was a good call, air in the system limits travel, but air can also get trapped at the top of the Master because it sits at an angle, and it won't bleed out the "normal" way.

Video here on bleeding Ranger Master: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pd1KDCAhTLc

Yes it could be something has happened to the newer clutch parts, not likely but certainly not impossible.

 

[DennisH]

Thank you for the information! I did just think of something though. The shaft that the clutch pedal rides on has slop where the shaft mounts to the bracket. The bushing that goes around the shaft is worn and allows the clutch to sit down lower than normal. Like when I push it in, it may not be getting pushed all the way in. I noticed this because if the clutch is only about a half inch from the bottom it won't allow the truck to start. But why I think it's not that bushing is because it only does it once it gets warmed up real good. Could that be a possibility?

 

[RonD]

When transmission oil is cold it is slightly thicker, this can help slow down the input shaft when clutch pedal is pushed in, making it easier to shift into 1st or reverse.

Clutch disc and flywheel/pressure plate all expand slightly when warmed up.

We are talking about a 1/16" in movement here.
1/16" clearance and clutch disc can stop spinning easily, warm or cold.
Less and it is rubbing and harder to slow down to a stop.

So yes, that play in the clutch pedal could be enough.

 

[DennisH]

Ok, I'm not even sure how I would change that bushing but I'll give it a shot. Any information would be appreciated. A coworker of mine suggested that it could be the master cylinder as well. I'm going to try to eleminate the easy things first before dropping the tranny.

 

[RonD]

Yes, check Master first.
That bushing shouldn't effect good working master/slave travel that much, so I would imagine there is a combination of issues, i.e. air in the master and warn bushing

 

[DennisH]

I'm having troubles locating the bushing to purchase. I'm nearly certain thats part of the problem though. It's busted up pretty good.

 

[RonD]

Try a wrecking yard and buy the whole clutch/brake assembly.

But check the bushings

 

[jeremysdad]

I'm having troubles locating the bushing to purchase. I'm nearly certain thats part of the problem though. It's busted up pretty good.

They have that bushing in the Help! section at most chain part stores. Got mine at Advance Auto. Link I swear they had a pack that was just the clutch bushing, and was 50 cents cheaper, but that was almost a year ago. lol

In my truck, the hole in the mc rod is ovaled out (plastic rod), so I need to replace the master.