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Hard Start


I bet you are having the same problem I am having. Mine doesnt power the ignition while cranking, but it you tap the starter over so long as the motor spins without the starter on she has spark, and runs great afterward. I have 2 ECU's and tried each, no effect. New TFI, and a known good used one i checked it with also. The wiring is beautiful. I am at a loss. I also havent really looked at it since it snowed here. But she does start and she runs great. Like you said I want it to start normally. I hope we can solve this problem should we share it.
 
I bet you are having the same problem I am having. Mine doesnt power the ignition while cranking, but it you tap the starter over so long as the motor spins without the starter on she has spark, and runs great afterward. I have 2 ECU's and tried each, no effect. New TFI, and a known good used one i checked it with also. The wiring is beautiful. I am at a loss. I also havent really looked at it since it snowed here. But she does start and she runs great. Like you said I want it to start normally. I hope we can solve this problem should we share it.
I am sure it is in the start circuit from the ignition switch somewhere. When you figure it out start a new thread and tell us what you found out.:icon_thumby:
 
I have a thread started, this one has a lot more ideas and input on it. Yes, I did replace my ignition switch, wish I didn't cause it made no difference and the one I took out was in real good shape. the wiring I cleaned up and took it all out of loom, its clean as the day it was all ran in 1988. I am pretty much at a loss. I figured I could replace the halleffect sensor, but I do not think that's it. The thing that gets me is that once its warm it starts conventionally, and pretty much will start that way for the rest of the day, depending. Which to me sounds like some kind of electrical component failure, not so much wiring.
 
It sounds like it could be a bad ground find all the grounds physically take them apart sand the surfaces and put them back together. battery to chassis, coil, all the computer grounds
 
The only thing I can think of is are you getting battery voltage with the key on start to the start pin on the ICM to advance the timing for a quick start or cold start when the engine is warm it starts alot easier therefore giving the impression it fixes itself.
 
Here's a question....just rolling this over again in my mind.

when you say you can only do short burst on the starter,( on a cold start)...

Does the starter continue to turn the engine over, (if you stay on the key)...but slowes down drastically, after say, 20-45 seconds of trying to start, but then turns over very hard, like a dead battery??

OR

Does the turn over fine at first... then the bendix drive of the starter disengages,( even though you are still in the start position with the key), lets say after the first 5-10secsond of trying to start?? hence, short burst

OR

does the starter just quit, after the 5-10second range, of turning over...like it looses complete battery source of power....doesn't slow down or bendix doesn't kick out...just quits??

sorry don't mean to muddy the waters...just trying to make sure we all are on the same page
 
In my case, I can crank the starter for as long as I want to, it works as it should. Nothing the truck does defies convention minus it not getting ignition power whist its cranking. What I do (if its cold) is just bump the starter, like crank it for a second, if even, and as soon as the key springs back to run and the motor is still spinning it fires right up and runs great.
 
I have another hour and a half in it today. Cleaned anything I hadn't cleaned before. Took apart all connectors and put them back. Inspected a great deal of the harness. I really really want to drive this thing, does anyone have any ideas?
 
I am thinking of installing a push button start, leave the key in run, have the switch power the solinoid and the cranking ignition pin on the TFI, so that it starts that way. Is this a decent idea? I agree fixing it would be nicer but how much is enough? Lol.
 
Tell me how it works out. I put another starter in after ruining the starter drive. I need another starter drive so I can carry an extra starter in the truck. It starts quicker now that the weather is warmer, but it's not right. Hopefully I can find the problem before next winter.
 
I know this is kinda crazy sounding but my 86 did this once in a while and what i found was the ignition switch in the column not the key cylinder but the switch that is insinde of the column was kinda broke on one end and would drop contact on that end and if i pushed up on it would start fine i noticed this when sometimes my fuel pump would not run when first turning the key to run it would crank over because only part of the contacts were touching. all i did was wrap some black tape around the switch to hold it in place till i can get a new one havnt had a problem since. hope it helps
 
It was actually my Hall effect sensor. It 3/4 worked. It went dead on the cranking cycle. What a pain in the ass to replace....just did it today...
 

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