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Gt-12


A corgi? I Didn't know you liked dogs, gwaii.

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i love dogs.

been around many,many dogs all my life...but that's a different story.

for those that don't know,corgi toy's is britain's version of matchbox.this thing being all about british stuff,i figured it was more fitting.:thefinger:
 
Looks damn good would never guess that was wood and bondo looks like fiberglass. I thought you were going to primer the whole car I read to far into that guess.
 
That's really impressive. Is that all hand sanded and what kind of bondo did you use? I'm always impressed by guys that can achieve that kind of a finish on parts like that, I don't have the patience. It's also going to be a fairly expensive piece by the time it's finished, just in material costs.
 
Looks damn good would never guess that was wood and bondo looks like fiberglass. I thought you were going to primer the whole car I read to far into that guess.
It's hard to primer the whole car when there is so much finish welding and sanding/smoothing to do, especially the hood...
That's really impressive. Is that all hand sanded and what kind of bondo did you use? I'm always impressed by guys that can achieve that kind of a finish on parts like that, I don't have the patience. It's also going to be a fairly expensive piece by the time it's finished, just in material costs.

He don't have as much into it as you would think.. 2 gallons of bondo, maybe half a sheet of plywood, can or two or primer and a couple sanding discs, less then $100 USD I'd say...
SVT
 
He don't have as much into it as you would think.. 2 gallons of bondo, maybe half a sheet of plywood, can or two or primer and a couple sanding discs, less then $100 USD I'd say...
SVT

yup,that's a pretty fair estimate so far.throw in some sandpaper,glue,and fiber disks.

still have to put on the basecoat/clearcoat...then it's fiberglass suppies.but by far the biggest investment is time.probably 15 hours or more so far,and there's still a few to come.
 
That's really impressive. Is that all hand sanded and what kind of bondo did you use?

the filler is napa's bodypro gold...it's a reasonable quality filler(and about the best i can get here without special ordering and paying through the nose)and shaping was done mostly by hand sanding,though the d/a was used some too.

there was a lot of time spent with a file on the inside of the lower vents to get the corners right.the inside of the licence plate recess took quite a while to get looking good too,outside surfaces are pretty easy.
 
I was thinking in terms of the whole thing. The mould will probably be the most expensive in terms of materials. Mat and resin are not cheap these days, and the mould will take quite a fair amount of both. I wasn't even thinking about the labour involved, that would be too scary.
 
I was thinking in terms of the whole thing. The mould will probably be the most expensive in terms of materials. Mat and resin are not cheap these days, and the mould will take quite a fair amount of both. I wasn't even thinking about the labour involved, that would be too scary.

this ones not too bad,as it's not very big.i'll probably use $100 worth of resin,$20 in matt,and $25 in gelcoat.as they get bigger(like a truck hood or something along those lines)the costs go up quickly.

once done,the first piece turned out of this will have a total cost in the $300-350 range...each after that about $50-60.

one other point at this time-and it's critical.
i was a little confused about svt's saying 'a couple of cans of primer'.while sanding the plug it hit me-he's referring to spray cans.

do NOT use any paint product that comes out of a spray can on a plug...if you do you've just wasted any time and money you've invested in the project.
my primer is an automotive grade urethane with a catalyst.the paint will also be automotive grade base clear.if you use spray paint,when you go to start glassing the solvents in the resin will cause the paint to wrinkle up,destroying the whole attempt.
 
Good to know. I've worked with glass before, but I haven't used it on top of primer/paint like you are...Then again, I haven't made body panels like you are...not yet :icon_thumby:
SVT
 
Good to know. I've worked with glass before, but I haven't used it on top of primer/paint like you are...Then again, I haven't made body panels like you are...not yet :icon_thumby:
SVT

ya,i never thought to point that out till i realized that's what you were talking about,and it's an important item.resin and gelcoat have a fair amount of acetone in them,and that will play havok on spray paint.

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so i got the sanding done on the primer.i went through in a few spots,but not enough to bother respraying.if this were on a finished body panel,these spots would eventually print through,but since this item will only last a few days it should be ok.

guess i'm ready for paint:icon_thumby:
 
That's another thing, Gelcoat. I know what it is (for the most part), but what does it consist of, and where does one get it?? I always thought that it is just resin without the mat/cloth, then the mat/cloth/resin combo is added...Am I right, or is there more to it :icon_confused:
SVT
 
That's another thing, Gelcoat. I know what it is (for the most part), but what does it consist of, and where does one get it?? I always thought that it is just resin without the mat/cloth, then the mat/cloth/resin combo is added...Am I right, or is there more to it :icon_confused:
SVT

it's related to resin,in that it's a polyester based product...but it's got other things in it to give a hard,stable surface.it's intended to be a finished surface on most things made from f/g such as boats.it will keep the fiber pattern form printing through to the surface so i use it on items that will be painted as well.a mold such as i'm making can be done without useing gelcoat,but you won't be able to get a glossy surface on it,and parts that are made in the mold will need more finish work.

there are two key types of gelcoat-waxed and unwaxed.waxed will set to a stable,sandable surface in air,so it is used where it's sprayed on the outside of something and sanded smooth,like the headlight cover forms i made earlier.unwaxed will set with the side to the air sticky,and is used on molds where it is sprayed on,then f/g layed up over it.the side against the mold(no air contact)sets hard,the sticky side bonds to the f/g layer better than waxed.

gelcoat should be available at the same place you get the resin and matt.it's generally available in neutral,which you add color paste to,or white.it can be brushed on too,but it works better spraying it.
 

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