Got 2150 tuned...

[The_Dealer]

well i got a vacuum guage and got the idle mixture set with the highest vacuum i could get, but it still "lopes" some at idle. also i got the high speed bleed tuned about right, but im only getting about 13-14mpg's. is that normal? i was getting about 17mpg before the duraspark conversion. i tried to lean out the high speed bleed some but it doesnt have as much power. and didnt really help in gas. when i was trying to get it running right i had a couple of good carb backfires and a small fire (was able to blow it out), could that have messed up my power valve causing bad economy?

also with the cannister style coil do i need to gap my plugs more? it runs fine except at low rpms kinda misses for a while but stops when it gets warmed up. but other then that it runs good

 

[Big Jim M]

With that carb and lectric system you might need to gap the plugs CLOSER but never wider!
Big JIm

 

[The_Dealer]

im using the feedback carb with a metering block, its wanting to stall when i put it in gear sometimes, and when i stop quick. im thinking my carb needs a rebuild as it had a lopey idle before i d-sparkd. sometimes my idle is fine sometimes it isnt, changed the fuel filter about 2 months ago, and ran some carb treatment in the gas tank. timing is 12*

also another question, i unhooked my disty advance from the manifold t, and it had vacuum on the disty, is that normal? i also have a hard time cold starting it, have to turn the key a couple times(i dont like just holding it forwards) and pump the gas to get it to start

 

[kimcrwbr1]

What is the highest vacuum you can ge at an idle and how many turns are the needles out. With the vacuum advance plugged into the vacuum tree by the dizzy you should have around 20 dbtdc on the timing at an idle. mine gets around 18hg of vacuum at an idle and 22 dbtdc on the timing. It sounds like you may have a vacuum leak somewhere. Get that choke working for cold starts but you need to get the carb dialed in first to do the choke properly. Try advancing the timing a little at a time but you will need to adjust the air fuel when you do. And yes clean the carb out good get a kit and strip it down but dont mess with the butterflys. Pull the jets and all the rubber and soak it overnite in carb cleaner. I lay all the parts out on a table as I take it apart that way you know what parts out of the kit to use. Blast the carb good with a hose (water) then blow all the ports out good with air. While you have it apart surface the bottom of the carb I use a 180 grit sheet of sandpaper glued to a flat piece of plywood slow and easy till you scratch the entire surface dont gouge. Double check the wet float after you get it running then dial it in.

 

[dangerranger83]

My truck back fires out the carb. when it hasn't warmed and so does my dads but mines worse but once warmed up, runs like a champ, idles at 800rpm ish.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Do you mean with the vacuum to the dizzy disconnected it still is advanced it should return to 12 degrees with no vacuum to it. Does the advance pod have two nipples on it I am confused on what you mean when you disconnect the t.

 

[The_Dealer]

i was hooking up the vacuum guage and disco'd it from the t instead of the vacuum end, and with the engine running there was suction on the hose that was hooked to the disty, never seen that before.

highest vacuum at idle i got was 20, and it was steady, idle mixture screws about 3 1/4 turns out from lightly seated, and the metering block about 3 turns out from full rich on the idle bleed. but when i put it in gear and set the ebrake it would get the best about 18 on the vacuum guage, but it has an erratic idle, like it wants to stall, but the idle is too high to turn it up more(when i go back to park idle goes to about 1000rpm)

i was looking at the gp sorenson kit http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...rensen_5116082-P_428_R|GRPFUELAMS_15897776___

is this a good kit? does it come with instructions, i read the tech rebuild and it said some dont come with directions. also its kinda hard to start when cold and about 75* outside. smokes black and smells like gas(and my valve seals have been done), when u give it gas it stumbles and stalls for a minute. once warm it starts easy. and feels like its missing at lower rpms

 

[kimcrwbr1]

That does look like the correct carb kit if your getting 20 on the vacuum at an idle is excellent. I see on the tee now just hook the vacuum guage on to the tree and when your timing it just disconnect it at the dizzy and plug the tube with a little screwdriver or somthing. Set timing between 8-12 without vacuum connect the vacuum and then tune the carb like your doing. A rebuild can never hurt

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/motorcraft_2150_carb.pdf

The feedback carb has a different accelerator pump and venturi booster but if you lay it out on a table as you take it apart then you know what parts in the kit to use just pay attention on the accelerator pump it has two springs but easy enough to figure out. That seems like a good price on the carb kit also. Read all the way thru the instructions above and the kit should have the adjustments for the choke and proper accelerator pump lever hole to use It sounds like your power valve is bad anyway you may as well clean it up good.

 

[dangerranger83]

That's the exact same kit I got from autozone for $22. Is a universal kit so be sure to watch what gaskets your carb. has.

 

[The_Dealer]

alright ill try that 1 out and see how it does. believe me i will let yall kno if i have some problems

 

[The_Dealer]

wow i feel stupid, i pulled the carb off and notice that the metering block i made was hitting the long vacuum nipple in the back and wasnt seated all the way, trimmed my metering block for clearance and she idles so good. one thing tho, i got the high speed bleed so it doesnt smoke black when i punch it but it has less power then when it ran rich. should i turn it in some to richen it up? also what can i do for my electric choke?, i broke off a piece on the valve where the line connects to the long nipple where i had to trim my metering block. also i didnt realize it but i dont have the choke wire anymore, i have the plug type deal where it "snaps" onto the choke housing. where do i wire it into to work right? i held off on the carb rebuild but i still feel like the power valve might be messed up as my mileage isnt really getting better? when i figured it im getting 8mpg's with 1/4 tank left. can i buy the power valve seperate?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Yea you can get the power valve separate but you need to pull the carb. Get a new base gasket or just make one use the old one for a pattern. Have you checked the wet float level pull the top of the carb off and measure the center of the fuel to the top of the carb I believe that carb is 7/16ths dry and 9/16ths wet or 0.810. if the fuel in the carb dont adjust down your float valve needs to be replaced. you can run it with the top off just be careful it dont overflow. If the float bowl is clean just use the parts in the kit you need power valve float needle and seat and new gaskets adjust the float dry at 7/16s and then again wet 9/16s after you get it running. The best way I have found to find vacuum leaks is with a piece of vacuum hose about 3 feet hold one end up to your ear and the other end search around all the gaskets and fittings works good for exhaust leaks also. Just stick the end in the carb so you know what to listen for.

 

[The_Dealer]

Yea you can get the power valve separate but you need to pull the carb. Get a new base gasket or just make one use the old one for a pattern. Have you checked the wet float level pull the top of the carb off and measure the center of the fuel to the top of the carb I believe that carb is 7/16ths dry and 9/16ths wet or 0.810. if the fuel in the carb dont adjust down your float valve needs to be replaced. you can run it with the top off just be careful it dont overflow. If the float bowl is clean just use the parts in the kit you need power valve float needle and seat and new gaskets adjust the float dry at 7/16s and then again wet 9/16s after you get it running. The best way I have found to find vacuum leaks is with a piece of vacuum hose about 3 feet hold one end up to your ear and the other end search around all the gaskets and fittings works good for exhaust leaks also. Just stick the end in the carb so you know what to listen for.

tried that with the hose but it didnt pick it up, couldnt get far enough back there. i might just get a 2150 off a pinto, i got a new job now so it will be alot easier to buy mods

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Did you buy the carb kit.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

For now you can check the float level just t.ake the top off the carb. 6 screws and the choke linkage you want 9/16s from the top of the carb to the middle of the fuel in the bowl. Your vacuum sounds good and a high float level will make it run rich also. Run it for a minute before you take the top off and after you adjust it it will run with the top off just real rich and maybe the gasket is bad causing the rich condition it wont hurt to look.