Gonna lift, need drive shafts?

[Surrey]

Im putting a 4" lift into my bronco II, and I am trying to figure out my best option for the driveshafts, which leaves me with a few questions.

Lets start with the front...

1a) Will the stock B2 front shaft hold up to 4" of lift? What about 6" (thats the next step, when I have a few more bucks)

2a) At some point, Im doing a d35 swap. Do I need a new driveshaft at that point? If so, what are my options?

3a) Im also planning a 4.0 swap eventually - ideally I want to get a working 4.0 Explorer from 93-94 as a donor vehicle and swap everything over... Would everything work in the front (Driveshaft length, specifically) with the new transfer case and axle?

(I ask that as two separate questions 'cause Im really not sure if I can afford a whole donor car, or if I will just be buying it piece by piece as I build the truck up.)

Now onto the rear shaft... I have a CV shaft, so I know it needs to be replaced.

From what I have read around here, if I can find a u-joint style shaft in a B2, it'll fit and be good for 4" lift.

1b) I have an automatic from 89, so I need anything with an a4ld auto, or an 89-90 Manual right? (the old toyo trannies and the FM145 are both 2" shorter than the a4ld and fm146/m5od right?)

2b) Are these long enough for 6" of lift?

3b) If that shaft isn't enough for a 6" lift, are the slightly longer ones from the toyo or FM145 trannies a possible option?

4b) How does an 8.8 effect drive shaft? Different connection? different length?

If there is anything I didn't ask, please bring it to my attention.

 

[country0001]

Im putting a 4" lift into my bronco II, and I am trying to figure out my best option for the driveshafts, which leaves me with a few questions.

Lets start with the front...

1a) Will the stock B2 front shaft hold up to 4" of lift? What about 6" (thats the next step, when I have a few more bucks) Yes, probably not 6. I have the 4" RC lift on my B2

2a) At some point, Im doing a d35 swap. Do I need a new driveshaft at that point? If so, what are my options?Yes, You will need to shorten your current one with the 1350. No if you install a 1354

3a) Im also planning a 4.0 swap eventually - ideally I want to get a working 4.0 Explorer from 93-94 as a donor vehicle and swap everything over... Would everything work in the front (Driveshaft length, specifically) with the new transfer case and axle? Yes

(I ask that as two separate questions 'cause Im really not sure if I can afford a whole donor car, or if I will just be buying it piece by piece as I build the truck up.) A donor can be found with a bad tranny for around 500 a lot of times

Now onto the rear shaft... I have a CV shaft, so I know it needs to be replaced.You can buy one for 3-400 bucks or you can build one for less than 200. I've done a write up on it.

From what I have read around here, if I can find a u-joint style shaft in a B2, it'll fit and be good for 4" lift.

1b) I have an automatic from 89, so I need anything with an a4ld auto, or an 89-90 Manual right? (the old toyo trannies and the FM145 are both 2" shorter than the a4ld and fm146/m5od right?)yes

2b) Are these long enough for 6" of lift?
Probably not
3b) If that shaft isn't enough for a 6" lift, are the slightly longer ones from the toyo or FM145 trannies a possible option?Maybe

4b) How does an 8.8 effect drive shaft? Different connection? different length? Not sure

If there is anything I didn't ask, please bring it to my attention.

That should cover it

 

[4.0B2]

if you decide to.. you can always use a 4wd explorer rear shaft and have it shortened down to fit what you need. I did this PLUS rebuilding it for $100 total. That's a JY shaft, shortened and balanced, new joints, and paint.

 

[natmanjoh]

+1 on the jy shaft. Cheap and effective. Did this too.

 

[adsm08]

I regards to point 1b. You can use anything 88+. 88 MY switched to the FM146 trans which was longer than the previously used FM145. The FM146 matches the M5OD and A4LD in length close enough to interchange drive shafts.

 

[Surrey]

JY shaft definitely seems the way to go for now to get it up and running...

I guess it now comes down to whether I can find something that'll be long enough for a 6" lift down the road, while still working with the 4" lift now.

Does anyone know if the 8.8 makes any difference here? Like, if I do an 8.8 swap at the same time as my 6" lift, will it make up some (or all) of the difference I would need for the bigger lift?

Would the longer driveshafts from a FM145 ect be too long for a 4" lift? what about a 6" lift? Anyone know how one of these compare in length to a Explorer front shaft? (Heard some info about people using them with a bit of modification...?)

 

[4x4junkie]

Yeah you're best off using an Explorer front driveshaft as your rear. This makes a great way to get a double-cardan shaft real cheap. It will need be shortened 1-2" however since you have the A4LD, but that'll cost far less than the $400 you'd pay for a quality all-new one.
You'll need to swap your rear t-case output flange for a 1354 front output yoke, and you'll need the attaching rear flange for the axle's pinion flange (can be had off a '90s Ranger rear driveshaft).

The 8.8" has a larger pinion flange than the stock 7.5" (larger bolt-circle, same-size centering pilot). You'll probably want to plan your 8.8" swap together with your driveshaft swap.

 

[natmanjoh]

I think what you're asking is length of driveshaft from 7.5 to 8.8 being different. Mine wasn't a different length. D28 to d35 lengths are different.

 

[Surrey]

The 8.8" has a larger pinion flange than the stock 7.5" (larger bolt-circle, same-size centering pilot). You'll probably want to plan your 8.8" swap together with your driveshaft swap.

Not an option - I need a new Driveshaft *now* because of the lift, and currently existing CV shaft.

So I will be looking for a U-joint stock-length replacement shaft for the 4" lift, and maybe plan on replacing that with an explorer front shaft when I bump it up to 6", which would be a good time to also do the 8.8 swap.

Does anyone have measurements for their driveshafts of various lengths/applications? Im curious as to how much difference there is in length from people running a 3-4" lift (stock length) vs a 6+" lift (longer than stock) and how does this work with up-travel? Does the longer driveshaft also require a longer splined slip-shaft or whatever its called?

 

[richard booth]

drive shaft lengths

I am right in the middle of what youre asking about and there is a tech article about the different possibilities. The 1st gen explorer shaft has a longer main shaft w a shorter slip yoke, while the second gen 95+ have a shorter main shaft by 2" and slip yoke +2". Both equal the same but there is a 4" range w both. I have a 5" skyjacker lift so I am going this wknd to JY to get a 2nd gen shaft so I can put together a 2nd gen main shaft w a 1st gen slip yoke and that should put me in range. I need 29 to 30 " w at least 3/4" for compression and w that combo I should end up at 28 1/4, possibly a bit stretched and will have to see but the driveline shop here wants 60 to cut and weld one and 70 to balance it so I hope to get a shaft and re build it this way and hopefully it works well and worst case I need to balance it, hope that helps.

 

[richard booth]

I just completed my rear drive shaft and I am stoked, it works great. I have an 88 Bll w a 4.0 engine and dash and harness swap, rebuilt the motor and it purrs! Sorry I am rejoicing right now but to the point I have a M5OD w an 8.8 from an explorer that I thought I would have to have a shop shorten but I found a thread where the guy pointed out that 1st and 2nd gen explorers had same total length front shaft but 2nd gen is a shorter main shaft and 1st gen has a shorter slip yoke so I got a 2ng gen shaft at the jy and measured it all, used the double cardan w the correct yoke for 1354 transfer case and it worked out perfect w my skyjacker 5" lift. Gave me about an inch of compression and cured my death wobble from using single cardan set up. So it gives you 4" to play w if you get both front explorer shafts, and shop here wanted 130 to cut, weld and balance one. I have a great JY hook up so it worked out great for me, next paycheck it will get 33s and I am done w 2yr project, woo hoo.