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Going to blow a nice chunk of change


FritzTKatt

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Mar 9, 2012
Messages
707
City
Ohio
Vehicle Year
04
Transmission
Automatic
:headbang: Will likely place my orders by Wednesday by which time J. Oaks can confirm availability. LMC's website already lists rotors on backorder.

Warn 37780's (hopefully they're in stock at the James Oaks store), and the conversion kit.

Found the Lock-Rite 1820 at "Rocky Road Outfitters" for $341.96 shipped, which is the cheapest I have found. Anyone know of a better price?

And finally slotted/cross drilled rotors from LMC.

When it all comes in I should have quite a bit of fun :yahoo:
 
Out of curiosity why do you want slotted and cross drilled rotors? I don't think you really need them, standard rotors would do you just as good as those would. If you want them then fine go for it, just don't get then because you think you need them. If you just want them I'd also suggest sourcing them from somewhere other than LMC Truck, you'll save money and have them a lot sooner. LMC truck is great for hard to source items, but things like that not so much. I'm almost 100% positive that you can find the rotors you want, with decent pads delivered for the same price as those rotors from LMC.

I'd recommend just going to your local auto parts store and picking up a new set of blank rotors, the will work just fine in almost any application. You can have both of them in hand on the same day for under a hundred bucks, add on a good set of pad for about another 50 bucks. You come out about 70 bucks cheaper than those rotors from LMC and will work just as well, especially it you ain't running on the track. That's just my 2 cent, it's your money do with it as you please.
 
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I looked at the slotted and drilled rotors when I was in the market for some...decided to just get the premium stock rotors because I couldn't find them for my Ranger...so far only a minor squeak from them after about 50,000 km...

They would look nicer on open rims if you are planning on that route too...but, otherwise, they are pretty much concealed as far as looks go and whether they perform better (less heat) is a matter of how much hard braking you plan on doing...
 
Summit racing carries drilled rotors, you can even get em on ebay.
 
I'm looking at the slotted/cross because I can only get drilled locally. No I don't have plans to ever race, and I already stop pretty fast (even without trans braking) when I do go fast on the back roads. Just figure when I'm already there to do the hubs, it'll be nice to decrease that stopping distance (hopefully significantly). Don't think anyone has ever complained about being able to stop mighty fast. My rotors on the truck now are in good condition and do not need to be replaced, as well as the pads. The rotors probably have 30k on them and the pads must be less than 5k. Nothing wrong with them, I see it as an upgrade.

Has anyone seen a lock-rite 1820 (8" 28 spline) for less than $320?

And as far as I could find J. Oaks still has 37780's and the conversion kit for cheapest.
 
If you're buildin a nice trail rig, why not go Expo 8.8 and get an Aussie?
 
Refer to Mark88's signature.

I'd re-gear before I put an aussie in... right now i got "91" 8.8 with 3.27's... I'd put at least 3.73's in there first, more like 4.10's. Then I'd want at least 35" swampers. Not that money is that much of an issue for me, but I do have to save up for a while, like the money going towards this soon to come order(s). Would rather not get 3 gallons to the mile either. I love going down the highway doing 55 at 1100rpm.

The one and only time I took this truck truly off road she was barreling through quite a bit. I won't do deep puddles, but had to go through water above the bumper with 6" of mud at the bottom... on 31's. 4low crawled right through. It actually impressed the drunk old redneck who I bought the truck from. His wrangler on 35" BFgetmestucks were spinning a bit to get through that. So far this old girl has done very well.

I'm working on doing a mini-snorkel. Did a bit of thinking and fitting yesterday. I'm going to have a 3" pvc line coming out the airbox towards the grill, then straight up through the hood a few inches with a splash cap on top. I'll just pull the couple screws on the cap to open the hood. Will make a 90* bend exhaust extension for when I go off road, so it sits a few inches over the top of the bed. Redneck fording kit hehe
 
For the price of a regear (labor & gears), I could find an explorer 8.8 WITH 4.10s AND have money left over to buy the spring perches and have money left over to buy an Aussie locker.

And 3.73's will suck just as bad as 3.27's if you're planning on 35s. Trust me, I've been there.
 
Still have to regear the front so that's a chunk, and another for the locker.

How much can you get an exploder 8.8 for? I've never even looked for them.

And how many gallons to the mile do you get with 4.56's and 35's?
 
i bought a set of drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic brake pads for my ranger a while back and i love em they stop alot harder and clean the mud and water out i paid 160 on ebay for all of it with shipping most of the ebay ones are actually from reliable companies and i have nothing but good things from mine:headbang:
 
Still have to regear the front so that's a chunk, and another for the locker.

How much can you get an exploder 8.8 for? I've never even looked for them.

And how many gallons to the mile do you get with 4.56's and 35's?

I get around 17 mpg highway actually. I love them! :icon_thumby:

And I paid $200 delivered for my expo 8.8 INCLUDING the 4.10s, brakes, calipers, and e-brake cables.
 
How much can you get an exploder 8.8 for? I've never even looked for them.

My loaded '96 8.8 was $100 with LS 3.73's and the springs.
 
^ See they're dirt cheap! A heck of a lot less than a rebuild, PLUS they're stronger. Granted I have around $1,200 in my rear axle...
 
And I paid $200 delivered for my expo 8.8 INCLUDING the 4.10s, brakes, calipers, and e-brake cables.

My loaded '96 8.8 was $100 with LS 3.73's and the springs.

My loaded '98 Explorer 8.8 with 3.73 gears and LS was $500 delivered...


...but the complete (rolled) V8 Explorer was still attached to it.

My rotors on the truck now are in good condition and do not need to be replaced, as well as the pads. The rotors probably have 30k on them and the pads must be less than 5k. Nothing wrong with them, I see it as an upgrade.

Did you have the rotors turned when you replaced the pads? If you didn't you aren't getting near the amount of braking power you should be from your new pads. You will likely see a huge improvement from getting new pads (yes, again) and either replacing your rotors or having them turned. You can almost but a new set of blank rotors for what it cost to turn the old ones. With your new pads and new or resurfaced rotors, follow proper bedding in procedures and enjoy your new found braking power. Keep in mind for the future that when replacing pads, always replace the rotors or have them turned.

FYI drilled and slotted rotors will not improve your braking power (decrease stopping distance). They will reduce brake fatigue by keeping components a little cooler, but not in an amount that you will notice during normal driving (or off road driving). This is mostly noticed during long periods of hard braking such as those found during track racing (road course, autoX, etc), road racing, and maybe during a lot of down hill mountain driving. This comes at the trade off of the rotors being a lot more prone to cracking, and not being able to be resurfaced (turned) by most shops. Where you will see a big improvement from different brake parts is in the braking compounds. Different compounds are made for different jobs/purposes, a organic pad will work different than a semi-metallic pad, which will be different from a ceramic pad. Do a little research into what different pad compounds people have used, what they liked and why they liked it. If their results were what you are looking for and give it a try. I know a lot of people like Hawk or EBC pads.
 
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