Going to blow a nice chunk of change

[FritzTKatt]

Sadly Oaks has 37780's on back order... hopefully I won't have to wait too long. I would like to get them sooner than later, and not order them from somewhere else (less paying more, I'd like to support his business because of TRS)

I didn't know that Josh. Thanks.

 

[brinker88]

I found that out the hard way as well. Ordered them on Amazon.com. They were actually cheaper

http://www.amazon.com/WARN-37780-Flange-Mount-Lock/dp/B000BQN0PK/?tag=959media-20

 

[FritzTKatt]

It'll be a bit more expensive on Amazon but time is money. It's a shame because I would like to support TRS

EDIT: brinker, are you getting 17mpg with 4.10 or 4.56?

 

[brinker88]

4.56's. Thats highway only. I get around 12-14 city.

And no, it's not a shame. TRS has helped many folks out. It's great to give back. BUT, like you said, time is money, and i couldnt wait that long for them.

 

[BCWs 1992 ranger]

My loaded '98 Explorer 8.8 with 3.73 gears and LS was $500 delivered...


...but the complete (rolled) V8 Explorer was still attached to it.



Did you have the rotors turned when you replaced the pads? If you didn't you aren't getting near the amount of braking power you should be from your new pads. You will likely see a huge improvement from getting new pads (yes, again) and either replacing your rotors or having them turned. You can almost but a new set of blank rotors for what it cost to turn the old ones. With your new pads and new or resurfaced rotors, follow proper bedding in procedures and enjoy your new found braking power. Keep in mind for the future that when replacing pads, always replace the rotors or have them turned.

FYI drilled and slotted rotors will not improve your braking power (decrease stopping distance). They will reduce brake fatigue by keeping components a little cooler, but not in an amount that you will notice during normal driving (or off road driving). This is mostly noticed during long periods of hard braking such as those found during track racing (road course, autoX, etc), road racing, and maybe during a lot of down hill mountain driving. This comes at the trade off of the rotors being a lot more prone to cracking, and not being able to be resurfaced (turned) by most shops. Where you will see a big improvement from different brake parts is in the braking compounds. Different compounds are made for different jobs/purposes, a organic pad will work different than a semi-metallic pad, which will be different from a ceramic pad. Do a little research into what different pad compounds people have used, what they liked and why they liked it. If their results were what you are looking for and give it a try. I know a lot of people like Hawk or EBC pads.

idk if you have run them before but i runnin on my ranger right now and i noticed a huge difference in the stopping power the front of the truck sinks way down and it stops on a dime now with 32s the holes and slots in the rotor make the brake pads grab harder and the holes expel air from between the the pad and rotor all in turn making the vehcle stop better

 

[JoshT]

idk if you have run them before but i runnin on my ranger right now and i noticed a huge difference in the stopping power the front of the truck sinks way down and it stops on a dime now with 32s the holes and slots in the rotor make the brake pads grab harder and the holes expel air from between the the pad and rotor all in turn making the vehcle stop better

Huge difference in stopping power compared to what? Sorry dude but that's marketing hype. While it may have been true in the past (50 years ago) do not expel anything, they do allow more sir to pass through the rotor keeping them cooler. That's why they help reduce brake fatigue, cool work better than hot brakes, and the drilled/slotted rotors keep them cooler longer. Even the cooling better things is debatable. If you saw that big of a difference it was as a result of fixing something else (even if you didn't realize it), or replacing worn parts (even if they were nearly new). BTW the front end bay drop a little but it shouldn't nose dive when applying the brakes (even with your lifted suspension). You may want to check your shocks and the rear brakes.

Just a little more information for you to mull over. Cross drilled rotors originated with asbestos brake pads. Those pads had a tendency of out-gassing and that gas could get trapped between the pad and surface of the rotor, in turn interfering with braking ability. Holes were drilled in rotors to allow this gas to escape. Asbestos brakes pads have been all but phased out, and modern braking materials do not have these problems. These days (unless a classic is still running asbestos brakes) drilled rotors are good for nothing but show, and cracking.

Slotted rotors were developed to help with glazing problems associated with asbestos and organic pads. Glazing is caused by pads overheating, which as you can imagine is prone to happen on a track. On street vehicles the main causes of glazing are riding the brakes (builds up heat) is improper bedding of the pads. This glazing destroys braking performance. To counter this problem on track vehicles slotted rotors were used to physically scrape off the glazing with each pass. The trade off is that each pass of the slot chews away at the pads causing them to wear out much faster. If your pads are not glazing over then the only thing that slotted rotors are doing is wearing them down faster, cause it doesn't care glazed or not it's going to scrape off a layer of the pad. Modern pad materials are designed to operate at the temperature ranges that should be found in a street vehicle, that coupled with proper bedding procedure all but eliminates the need for a slotted rotor.

I'm not going to tell anyone not to buy drilled and slotted, but I would prefer for people buying them to know why they are actually buying them. I don't want people buying them because companies and clueless people have drilled it into their head that they need them. If they actually need slotted rotors for a track vehicle that's great get them. If they want drilled and/or slotted for looks that's fine. Don't get them for a street vehicle thinking you will get a noticeable difference in braking performance, because you won't. There are three ways to improve stopping ability. First, wheels and tires, namely less rotating mass and better grip. Second, better pads and proper bedding procedure, think that's pretty self explanatory. Third, larger rotor, this increases the mechanical advantage of the braking system, basically increasing leverage.

 

[shane96ranger]

I found that out the hard way as well. Ordered them on Amazon.com. They were actually cheaper

http://www.amazon.com/WARN-37780-Flange-Mount-Lock/dp/B000BQN0PK/?tag=959media-20

Oh, how I love Amazon Prime! That is a really good deal.

 

[FritzTKatt]

Thanks for the explanation Josh. I'll likely look for a quality solid rotor and quality pads. Then I'll easily have the money left to replace the calipers too (not that they are bad, but are OE on a 94). Some things I tend to do are under the thought train of "replace it if you can, and it'll last another 20 years" less than "if it aint' broke, don't fix it"

I did get a pretty good deal from Amazon for the hubs and conversion kit. The locker was a tad more expensive but shipping was much less. I should have everything by the end of next week.

 

[JoshT]

Unless it's really hard to get to I'm usually of just of the opposite train thought. If its lasted the past 20 years, why replace it when it might last the next 20. Now if it's difficult to replace when everything is back together then yeah I'll replace it. (IE: oil pump while replacing a pan gasket, or internal throwout bearing while replacing a clutch) For me pads, rotors, and calipers are to easy to change to fall under that category. To each his own there. If you want the fancy rotors and don't mind what goes along with them, then get them especially if you'll be happier with the end result. I would suggest shopping around though, cause you can definitely find a better price than LMC Truck.

I'd also like to clarify. I am not telling anyone not to to buy drilled and or slotted rotors. I'm just wanting people to be sure of the reason they are buying them. I see too often (not necessarily here) posts telling people to go buy drilled and slotted rotors to upgrade their brakes, or that drilled and slotted rotors are worth the extra money when someone is on a budget. It's just not true, and is money wasted that could be fixing other problems. There are no magic holes or slot patterns that will increase your stopping power over plain rotors, the only true rotor upgrade is larger diameter which is going to at least quadruple the price (trust me I'm paying for it). That said those holes and slots can (as described in a previous post) have benefits over a standard rotor in the conditions they are meant for (also in previous post), which don't fall under normal street driving or off road driving. I have no problem with people buying them because they actually have a need for them (race vehicle, track days, etc.), or because they want them for the look. I just hate seeing people think they have to have them, or that tehy will magically improve their stopping power.

Hell I plan to run slotted rotors on the 86 2wd I'm rebuilding purely for the look, but it's also getting 13" Cobra brakes mostly for the looks. It will be a brake upgrade, but that will come from the larger diameter rotor and better pads not the slots. I won't need the brake upgrade over the stock rotor and dual piston calipers I could run, but since I'm running 17" 03-04 Mach 1 wheels the stock rotors will be too small to look good IMO. The added braking power of the larger rotors, and Explorer disk axle will just be an added bonus. FYI I mentioned money for a rotor upgrade earlier, on pre-98 2wd Rangers (95-97 but adaptable to earlier models) there are 2 options available to run larger rotors. One option available includes a set of brackets that spaces the stock caliper out enough to run an Explorer Sport Trac 12" rotor, its fairly cheap at 135 for the brackets plus the cost of the rotors. The other option is a set of hubs and brackets made to run 13" Cobra rotors I mentioned previously as well as matching calipers, it costs about 475 after custom fees. This is the option I'm taking, and it costs a bit more than that 475. So far I have about 1300 into the swap. That includes that kit, 95-97 front suspension upgrade, and the 17" wheels required to run it. I still have to buy calipers that's about 350 bucks (closer to 500 if I opt for cobra logo), then rotors will run me around 200 (EBC Utilimax slotted), and the pads probably about 100 (EBC GREEN or RED). So I'll have between 1800 and 2000 in a front brake upgrade, plus matching pads and rotors for rear. As I mentioned earlier a true rotor upgrade isn't cheap, and this is mostly for show. May put them to the test on a track a few times though if they'll let me.

 

[FritzTKatt]

I got my locker delivered the other day. Before it came, my mom went to move my truck (parked behind her jeep) and I had a front brake line blow out... happy that happened on our street and not on the highway/etc. Turns out my extended lines rubbed on my rim (braided stainless, no hard section like stock). So I had to do them, and the jumper from the splitter at the driver side to passenger side. But I had to put stock size lines on there because of availability. Thusly there's almost no down travel to them because of the 4" lift. If i were to move the line, IE drill an appropriately sized hole on the back side of the coil bucket (towards rear of truck) and move the hard lines, which is easy since I have fresh hard lines all around on the front end, will that provide the clearance needed?

IIRC many people have successfully done this instead of buying extended lines, which at this point isn't my best option if they are going to rub and give me future problems. Then all I need to do is drill the holes, unscrew it, screw it back in, and bleed them and be back on the road... with the ability to use my full suspension.

Hopefully my hubs will come in this week. Oddly when ordered the locker was 5-8 day and the hubs were 3-5... locker came in 3 days...

 

[Jim Oaks]

Will likely place my orders by Wednesday by which time J. Oaks can confirm availability. LMC's website already lists rotors on backorder.

Warn 37780's (hopefully they're in stock at the James Oaks store), and the conversion kit.

Found the Lock-Rite 1820 at "Rocky Road Outfitters" for $341.96 shipped, which is the cheapest I have found. Anyone know of a better price?

And finally slotted/cross drilled rotors from LMC.

When it all comes in I should have quite a bit of fun

I just asked my distributor this past week about the 37780's and was told:

"MORE WILL BE IN STOCK @ WARN, BY THE END OF THE MONTH"

That's a good price on the 1820.

 

[FritzTKatt]

"MORE WILL BE IN STOCK @ WARN, BY THE END OF THE MONTH"

Damnit. Well now, don't I feel like a dick?