Going Duraspark.

[sirjeremyjohnson]

I have ordered all the parts I believe ill need to convert my bronco 2 to duraspark.

I ordered a holley rebuilt 2150 for a pinto, and all the ignition parts of a 79 pinto as well.

I just rebuilt my carb, but have come to the conclusion that my electronic feedback stuff is just not working. Anybody need a freshly rebuilt 2150a?

 

[strvger]

might try posting in the parts for sale forum.

 

[WesB]

Where did you get all the parts from and for how much, b/c I was thinking of doing this soon

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Cool you will be glad you did the 2.8 is no powerhouse but the duraspark will bring it to life. What I did was strip the harness from the 8 wire connector by the coil back to the alternator. The only wires you need are the oil pressure and water temp and alternator wires the rest goes away along with the vacuum lines keep the brake booster and the vacuum to the vapor cannister and just hook the vacuum advance for the dizzy to manifold vacuum the rest get plugged. Not sure about the holly 2150 but if it is the motorcraft/autolite 2150 you will need the spacer felpro #60529 for the base to plug the vacuum leaks where the TPS used to be and depending how old the engine is it may need valve guide seals and is fairly easy to do once you get all those wires and vacuum lines out of the way you just use air or rope to hold the valves up while you change the seals using a palm spring compressor it took me about two hrs. Keep us informed.

 

[sirjeremyjohnson]

I ordered the carb online, I believe its a factory ford carb, just "rebuilt by holley", i guess ill know when i get it, best deal I found on one of these was like $190
The 2 ignition control plugs i got on ebay for like $20
and the rest of the ignition parts I ordered at autozone, and since I work there got a nice discount.

I figured im gonna need some odds and ends to complete it like the spacer and others, im just gonna start collecting the parts and start on it when I feel ready. I dont expect it to be hard, and Im better at wiring than any other automotive task, so we'll see how it goes.

I'm sure I need to do my valve seals, I dont see how i can fit the tool in the passenger rear with the A/C in the way. I had a hard enough time when i changed the valve cover gaskets, trying to get all the old cork off.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I ordered the carb online, I believe its a factory ford carb, just "rebuilt by holley", i guess ill know when i get it, best deal I found on one of these was like $190
The 2 ignition control plugs i got on ebay for like $20
and the rest of the ignition parts I ordered at autozone, and since I work there got a nice discount.

I figured im gonna need some odds and ends to complete it like the spacer and others, im just gonna start collecting the parts and start on it when I feel ready. I dont expect it to be hard, and Im better at wiring than any other automotive task, so we'll see how it goes.

I'm sure I need to do my valve seals, I dont see how i can fit the tool in the passenger rear with the A/C in the way. I had a hard enough time when i changed the valve cover gaskets, trying to get all the old cork off.

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Universal-O...t=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item41568413b4

This is the one I bought kinna tricky getting in on the spring right to get the keepers out. What I did was compress the spring about half way and tap it with a hammer to pop it loose first that way the keepers dont go flying then compress it all the way. After messing with the first couple the rest went pretty fast. I used a skinny screwdriver to make sure the piston was all the way up first and used about 20 lbs of air pressure to hold the valves up that way if you slip the valve dont fall in the hole. I was amazed not one of the seals was even touching the valves and the rubber part crumpled in my fingers

 

[sirjeremyjohnson]

anybody know of a good place to purchase the carb?


the place i ordered from waited a few days, then sent me an email telling me they had a pricing error and needed an additional $12, i cancelled the order, and wont do business there again. regardless, I still need a carb.

 

[sirjeremyjohnson]

I just looked at my carb and its a 1.08 venturi with #50 jets, just with the electric stuff on it, I may just try removing the electric stuff and see how it goes

 

[kimcrwbr1]

That works just fine you need to make a metering block for the air bleed I will try and locate the post on that.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/500837/3
Easy enough to make it with the right material.

 

[sirjeremyjohnson]

well i ordered a nylon sheet, $20 is much better than $200 on a new carb, when i just rebuilt this one. lol

 

[kimcrwbr1]

It will work just fine I used the gasket from the solenoid to drill the holes then for the adjustment screws first i drilled the small holes for the ports from the outer edge to the large oval. The the size fr the inside size of the adjuster screws and tapped the threads and ground the screws to a point. I didn`t have to put the rubber things on as the screws fit pretty tite in the block and then if you dont have access to a CO reader its a matter of starting out lean then taking it rich. What they do is add air to the fuel so with them all the way in that is full rich and wide open is full lean so just make sure the high speed air bleed hole is big enough the idle air dont take much.

 

[sirjeremyjohnson]

I just don't understand how ill know when its "right"

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Performance VS gas mileage I guess. Once you get the idle air dialed in if your lucky you will have the high speed bleed hole the right size but slowly close it untill it starts dogging at high speeds or you notice the fuel guage drop faster or close it all the way and run it about 2500 rpm and slowly turn it out until the rpm stops increasing. The real test is on the road. I wonder if there is some way to use the O2 sensor in the exhaust maybe something to look into.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I still have mine in the exhaust I am gonna see what I can find out what I gather from this you need to get around .45 volts for a accurate air fuel mix.

http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/O2_Sensor.html

worth a try I will let you know what I find out I know my O2 sensor is good.