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Gen 1 Standard Cab Install


there are only minimum wire size to hold a set current not a maximum

X1000, there is no such thing as overkill when it comes to your electrical system/wiring. The bigger the wire the less resistance so less power is lost between your battery and amp meaning less drain on your alt/battery.
 
so everything is done on the box besides siliconing the inside seams, cutting the hole for the sub, and nailing the face on.


my friend was supposed to let me use his stuff to finish everything up over this winter break, and everytime he was too busy or something. really annoying to me. so i guess i'll take it back into my school shop hopefully sometime this week and get the last hole cut.



big (maybe?) problem though...

when i bought the mdf, i had them cut the sheet in half so i could transport it easier, and then i went straight into cutting it up for the pieces. never thought to measure the width to my desired width, and now it takes up my whole rear shelf and it's already attached...

so basically idk what i should do... it's a little over 1cf right now if i remember right, and the sub calls for .8cf...

here's my options:
1) leave it sealed and the size it is and just hook it up
~if i do this, i need to figure out a spot to put my amp.. NEED help with this. going on the box won't work, the seats are already up too far lol.
2) leave it sealed and figure out some way to cut the width down and put the side piece back on
~how would i cut width off of a box that is already nailed and glued together (besides the face)?
3) cut the port tube hole and leave it the same width
~same problem as above with leaving it the same width
4) cut the port tube hole and cut the width down
~same problem as above with cutting down the width


so any opinions on that?

bump
 

if its all together is personally just run it sealed and add some 2x4s in the corners as bracing and to add some displacement to bring the airspace back down to the .8cf. or just build a new box.

And personally i wouldnt have them cut it for you, the cuts are usually sloppy and dont end up being the right length.
 
if its all together is personally just run it sealed and add some 2x4s in the corners as bracing and to add some displacement to bring the airspace back down to the .8cf. or just build a new box.

And personally i wouldnt have them cut it for you, the cuts are usually sloppy and dont end up being the right length.

alright, i'll probably just leave it the way it is, and leave it sealed... but now where do i put my amp? that's almost the biggest problem :(

i'll try to glue some stacks of the scrap mdf i have together to put in the box to lower the interior air space.


what about polyfill? or is that for when the box is too small?
 
I cosign on the just sealing it, They say if you have more room than is required for a sub it'll sound bad, but I have a friend who has over 1.3cf extra on his p3 system, he ported the box and that has quite possibly the loudest 12 i've ever heard haha, and just mount the amp somewhere and the backwall or under a seat maybe.
 
and polyfill will slow down the sub and give you a better boom.
 
alright, i'll probably just leave it the way it is, and leave it sealed... but now where do i put my amp? that's almost the biggest problem :(

i'll try to glue some stacks of the scrap mdf i have together to put in the box to lower the interior air space.


what about polyfill? or is that for when the box is too small?

yup you got it, polyfill will trick the box into thinking its bigger than it is by slowing down the airflow.You use poly when you dont have enough space so it may make things worse. Did you remember to subtract the subwoofers displacement too? It might bring you down a little closer to the .8 range after figuring in the drivers displacement.
 
I cosign on the just sealing it, They say if you have more room than is required for a sub it'll sound bad, but I have a friend who has over 1.3cf extra on his p3 system, he ported the box and that has quite possibly the loudest 12 i've ever heard haha, and just mount the amp somewhere and the backwall or under a seat maybe.

you tell me to leave it sealed, and then say your friend got louder from porting? sorry, that is what i got from that message.

yup you got it, polyfill will trick the box into thinking its bigger than it is by slowing down the airflow.You use poly when you dont have enough space so it may make things worse. Did you remember to subtract the subwoofers displacement too? It might bring you down a little closer to the .8 range after figuring in the drivers displacement.

i can check the displacement... and i'll use no polyfill too.

i can't mount the amp on my back wall, because there is no space due to me being an idiot and not measuring all, who am i kidding... ANY, or my pieces width's..

and i tried putting my amp under a seat, and with the floor pan style, i'm not sure i even could, but also the wire that links both sides of the sliding rails together, gets in the way. thought about taking that wire out, thus making the passenger seat immovable, and putting the amp there, if it works out.

say i could only get one side bolted down, is that bad?
 
say i could only get one side bolted down, is that bad?

only bolting one side of the seat down or one side of the amp......seat bad...amp ok

a co0l lil trick to putting amps under seats. go get vercro, black spray paint, and a plastic for sale sign. cut the sign in the so it matches the footprint of the amp, and let it have lil taps that stick out far enuff to go under the rails of the seat. (were the seat bolts to the floor) so your for sale sign should look like a "T" paint it black to hide it. or what ever color you like. and velcro the amp to the sign. and remove the back to seat bolts. slide the sign between the carpet and the seat rail and put the bolts back in, going thur the sign.

the sing will bend to the curve of the floor, but wont let the amp move in stop and go, and its easy to pull up if you ever need too.

make sureeeeee you use a plastic for sale sing not a metal one:icon_thumby:
 
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only bolting one side of the seat down or one side of the amp......seat bad...amp ok

a co0l lil trick to putting amps under seats. go get vercro, black spray paint, and a plastic for sale sign. cut the sign in the so it matches the footprint of the amp, and let it have lil taps that stick out far enuff to go under the rails of the seat. (were the seat bolts to the floor) so your for sale sign should look like a "T" paint it black to hide it. or what ever color you like. and velcro the amp to the sign. and remove the back to seat bolts. slide the sign between the carpet and the seat rail and put the bolts back in, going thur the sign.

the sing will bend to the curve of the floor, but wont let the amp move in stop and go, and its easy to pull up if you ever need too.

make sureeeeee you use a plastic for sale sing not a metal one:icon_thumby:

sounds... inventive to say the least haha. but i'll probably give it a try, i'm gonna have to take out the wire that let's people adjust the front to back movement though... they are just gonna have to get over it i suppose...

i can mount the sub behind my driver seat so that i can put the passenger seat as far back as i can i suppose..? i've gotten used to having my driver seat up pretty far, when i turn my headlights on all the way, my knee is almost touching the headlight knob... lol


oh, and yes i was talking about not bolting the amp down, not the seat lol.
 
sounds... inventive to say the least haha.

yea kinda is but when the seat is slid back over top of it you can barley see the amp let alone the sign, and i had black carpet so it all blended in.. i took my time rounded eddges, came out looking good.
 
yea kinda is but when the seat is slid back over top of it you can barley see the amp let alone the sign, and i had black carpet so it all blended in.. i took my time rounded eddges, came out looking good.

i have my stupid red carpet... wish i could afford to get a new black one...

i want to black out my truck eventually.... but since i want to keep it literally for the rest of my life, i guess i'll have time to.

i'm gonna try to see if i take off the wire that links the two sides of the seat sliders together, see if my amp will fit under there... if it still doesn't, then obviously the sign trick won't work.


wish i had a gen 1 owner that put an amp under their seat...
 
what do you have, a bench seat or the 60/40?

i had an amp under my bench seat in my 84 standard cab. it fit.
 
what do you have, a bench seat or the 60/40?

i had an amp under my bench seat in my 84 standard cab. it fit.

60/40

but have some seats out of a camaro that i wanted to reupholster and put in the truck... but thinking i should just scrap that and try and sell them on craigslist... waste of my money, but unfortunately i think it's just a waste of time now... been thinking of just sawing off the extra 20% on my drivers side seat, but don't have the tools (know ppl who would..) but also don't know how good the fabric would look after i (who is the complete opposite of anybody who is decent at sewing or fabric skills lmao) tuck it back under and staple or glue it
 
if you were closer, id give you my perfect bench seat out of my 84.

but if you did cut out the center of the 60/40, you could make a piece of mdf the followed the contour of the seat, and mount the amp to that.

meaning, standing the mdf on edge, cut it so its a little lower than the seat, and mount the amp to that.

that would look pretty cool actually. dont know if it would work though
 

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