fuseable link - where is it?

[AllanD]

IF you bridge the two big studs on the fender mounted relay/solenoid and all the starter does is "go click" then the starter itself is the likely problem

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[nate09]

and the solenoid on the starter is replaceable? if so, how can i test it?

 

[AllanD]

IF you bridge the two studs on the FENDER Mounted re;ay Solenoid and the starter only goes "click" you just DID test the starter or the starter mounted solenoid and it FAILED.

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[nate09]

excellent. now to drop that starter in the single digit weather. thanks a bunch!

 

[Beast]

Starter Relay Switch

AllanD,

I am having the same problem on my 1992 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0L 2WD Manual Transmission.

My confusion is this with your post, not being critical but just making sure I understand.

Where I am confused is that you say that once you use a jumper on the starter relay switch,

"IF you bridge the two big studs on the fender mounted relay/solenoid and all the starter does is "go click" then the starter itself is the likely problem

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Political Correctness: A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical, liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.


The reason I am confused is that I am looking at a Haynes Manual and is says exactly this, "

To check the starter relay circuit, remove the push-on electrical connector from the relay (red with blue stripe). Make sure the connection is clean and secure and the relay bracket is grounded. If the connections are good, check the operation of the relay with a jumper wire. To do this, place the transmission in park (automatic) or neutral (manual). Remove the push on connector from the relay. Connect a jumper wire between the battery positive terminal and the relay push on connector terminal. If the stater motor operates, the starter relay is okay. The problem is in the ignition switch, Neutral start switch, starter/clutch interlock switch, or in the starting circuit wiring (look for open or loose connections). Reconnect the push on electrical connector.

The it says in the book:

If the starter motor still does not operate, and the relay DOES NOT CLICK, replace the starter relay.


So, I am still confused. Like I said I am just trying to get it right and want to make sure I get it right.

Can you help me please?

Beast

 

[nate09]

if you bridge the two big terminals on the fender relay and the starter spins, then your starter, starter solenoid and fender relay are good.

what problem are you experiencing with your truck?

 

[kjmclark]

Sorry to break in with another Ranger doing the same thing, but mine is, and it's a bit weird. OK, so it's a 96 4.0 V6. Bought it used before last winter. I bought a used battery soon after I bought the truck.

Everything was fine until just after I had some brake lines replaced. Drove it home from the shop, no problem. A week later our temps dipped into the teens. I went out to start the truck (hadn't touched it in the past week), and got Rrr rr, then nothing. Turned the key again and got a single click and nothing else. I figured the cold and a used battery meant the battery was weak. So I got out the charger, and left it charging while I went to our usual Saturday shopping. The truck was locked and the hood was mostly closed while I was gone.

When I got back, a few hours later, I decided to check the truck to see if I could get it started. I decided to open the hood first (truck was still locked). The theft alarm went off (didn't know it would for opening the hood). I unlocked the door and the alarm went off. Tried to start the truck and just got a click. Turned the charger to the 'start' setting and tried again. No change. Checked the headlights and they were fine, but didn't dim when I tried to start it.

Since the lights were good, I thought the starter was the likely problem. So I replaced it. Nothing. Decided to check the battery cells, and found 5 nearly dead and one good. Replaced the battery (after 8 hrs charging @ 2amps), and had to replace the negative clamp in the process. No change. Verified that the headlights were on strong, dimmed very slightly when I tried to start, but the starter still went click once and nothing else.

Figuring the problem is either the relay or wiring connections, I tried bypassing the relay. I hooked a jumper cable directly to the + terminal on the starter solenoid and the battery + post. Turned the key and got the starter turning weakly. So the starter is OK, the engine isn't seized, but there's still a problem. Also, the cable got fairly hot after a few attempts. Now I'm thinking it's the relay and a weak ground connection or something. So I replaced the relay, and disconnected all the wiring for the starter. At each connection, I cleaned off the contact points with a degreaser, sanded clean with fine sandpaper, and put on some dielectric grease, and put things back together. So all the starter contacts, the wiring connections at the relay, and even cleaned the + battery clamp and used some dielectric grease on the battery clamps. No change.

So I'm wondering what's left. I could have a bad wire somewhere. But is it possible that it has something to do with the anti-theft system? There's no button I could find under the dash to reset the system. I don't have the remote entry key, so I can't try that. But I've unlocked the doors and tried the ignition many times since the alarm went off. So it should have shut the system off. But if I try the ignition twice in a few seconds (like on - start - back to on - back to start - in 10 seconds or so), the doors lock and unlock. I've never had a car/truck with an anti-theft system before, so I don't know how normal that is.

I did check all the fuses for the alarm and starter systems, and couldn't find anything wrong there. Any suggestions before I give up and have it towed somewhere?

 

[kjmclark]

So the tow truck guy was stumped at first too. He decided to try to get it started. He tightened up one of the battery clamps more than I did, and jumpered the truck, but it didn't start. He had my wife try to start it when he banged on things with his hammer. (I'm at work.)

It was the brand-new relay. He whacked a few things, with no change. Finally he hit the relay while she was starting it, and it turned right over.

Moral of the story - new parts don't always work like new at first. If they have moving parts, they may need a little help to start moving. I'm betting it just needed to be broken loose the first time, and it will be fine from now on. Just kind of bugs me. I spent three hours in the cold under the truck and working in the dark cleaning contacts everywhere, when what I really needed was a hammer.

 

[kjmclark]

Actually, it was a wire

Turns out it wasn't the solenoid. Had two shops say it was, but if they'd taken a minute to check the hot wire to the starter, they'd have seen that it was corroded down to about 1/3 the original strands. I got a new wire from the dealership, took an hour to put it in, and now the truck starts like a dream, every time.

 

[AllanD]

IF the battery is fully charged and all that happens when you bridge the two studs is you get a "clunk"
the problem is downstream of the fender mounted relay...

that can mean that you've got a bad ground or power connection to the starter OR the starter itself is bad (though the solenoid ON the starter could also be faulty.

But if all you get is a clunk the fender mounted relay is probably good.

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