Full With axle help

[ranger8689]

I guess i was told wrong then. I guess when i do the axle swaps i'll have to fix that.


Now after i figure out what i want to do with steering i suppose i can start. Any suggestions on what would be good, that doesn't cost a lot? The stock steering was struggling with 35's

 

[-Nathan-]

why not cut off and reweld the axle perches to the correct width?

 

[JohnnyU]

why not cut off and reweld the axle perches to the correct width?

Because the driver side spring perch is cast into the differential housing.

 

[ranger8689]

yes like johnnyu said, the perch is already as close as it can be to the differential already. Only option is to go wider with the springs

 

[crawlin91]

why not try using coils and radius arms? Its not that much more work and will probably ride better.

As for steering you can do the HD Saginaw pump swap (tech library) that will help a little. This pump can also be easily tapped to run hydro steering later on when funds allow.

 

[ranger8689]

I was considering using coils and radius arms, but for the price, it might be cheaper to just keep the springs. The price of the coils, radius arms, and all the brackets, will cost much more then just to reuse the 4in chevy springs i already have.

All i believe i need to do the full width swap is, build some new brackets extending the leaf spring width, brake lines, drive line modifications, and maybe a track bar.

 

[ranger8689]

I have a question about track bars. Are they needed on leaf sprung set ups? I currently do not have one on my ranger now. I was getting the death wobble occasionally. I've seen some that run them, and some that don't. I thought that leaf springs were what positioned the axle side to side??

 

[BowTech99]

Leaf springs = no track bar

You can put one on, but your not doing yourself any favors. Something is wrong with your steering or castor (or camber cant remeber) isnt set properly.

You can band-aid DW with some steering shocks, but like i said, Band-aid.

 

[JohnnyU]

I have a question about track bars. Are they needed on leaf sprung set ups? I currently do not have one on my ranger now. I was getting the death wobble occasionally. I've seen some that run them, and some that do. I thought that leaf springs were what positioned the axle side to side??

It depends on how extreme the arch of your leaf springs is. The taller they are (more lift), the more lateral motion the springs will be capable of and therefore the more reason to add a track bar.

Leaf springs = no track bar

You can put one on, but your not doing yourself any favors. Something is wrong with your steering or castor (or camber cant remeber) isnt set properly.

You can band-aid DW with some steering shocks, but like i said, Band-aid.

Not so much.
Depending on the lift height, the track bar can be VERY MUCH needed, and provide an ENORMOUS improvement in stability and handling.

 

[ranger8689]

That makes sense. So if my 92 dana 60 had a factory track bar on it, would it be best to put one back on? I also believe the 94 dana 30 axle had one on it originally.

I also discovered i did my leaf spring shackles straight up and down instead of a 90* to my springs. Could that be the cause of the death wobble?

I just don't see 4in 1/2 ton lift springs being to tall to need a track bar.

 

[gwaii]

the trac bar can be neccesary to correct for the steering.many trucks that came with leaf springs used a steering system that had the drag link going back from the diff to the box(like chevs and dodges from the 70s/80s)so it moved in phase with the suspension.when you have a crossover steering setup(the drag link goes from the box across the truck to the passenger side of the tie rod)the suspension is moving up and down,but the drag link is moving in an arc pivoting on the pitman arm,so is effectively changing length,and so steering the truck as the suspension cycles.the greater the vertical distance from the pitman arm to the tie rod,the more pronounced the effect will be.to alleviate this,a trac bar the same length as the drag link and running the same difference in vertical height(so they are in phase with each other) can be used to force the diff to move laterally the same amount the tie rod end of the drag link moves,so the steering remains straight through suspension travel.the springs and bushings will have no problem taking up this lateral deflection,except in very extreme circumstances......................................................

 

[JohnnyU]

That makes sense. So if my 92 dana 60 had a factory track bar on it, would it be best to put one back on? I also believe the 94 dana 30 axle had one on it originally.

I also discovered i did my leaf spring shackles straight up and down instead of a 90* to my springs. Could that be the cause of the death wobble?

I just don't see 4in 1/2 ton lift springs being to tall to need a track bar.

What is your castor set at? 99% of the time, this was completely disregarded in an effort to "get a good pinion angle". Castor should be the number one concern when setting up the axle.

 

[ranger8689]

I'm not really sure what my caster angle is, i just I balled it when i was doing my axle. It wouldn't doubt it being around 10*. Which as i read was bad it needs to be closer to 2*. Also yes, i was focusing mostly on the pinion angle when i welded perches on.

I guess you fix your mistakes, i was only 18 when i did it, hopefully the extra year of knowledge will help me out now, O and you guys

 

[JohnnyU]

I'm not really sure what my caster angle is, i just I balled it when i was doing my axle. It wouldn't doubt it being around 10*. Which as i read was bad it needs to be closer to 2*. Also yes, i was focusing mostly on the pinion angle when i welded perches on.

I guess you fix your mistakes, i was only 18 when i did it, hopefully the extra year of knowledge will help me out now, O and you guys

Positive or negative?

I would shoot for 4-6° of positive caster (tipped back towards the rear of the truck).

<----Negative- -Positive---->

 

[ranger8689]

I went and looked at my truck after work today just so i could double check. It looks to have about an 8* positive caster.

I'm thinking when i set up the new axle I will just take my time and make sure everything is correct, then if i still have a death wobble problem i will address it then. Right now there is to much problematic things that could be causing this. I think after eliminating all that i know wrong, will help isolate it.

Currently i have a steep steering angle which could be the cause as well.

Thanks for all the help. Everyone