Fuel Rail Removal 2003 Model

[Mr. Neutron]

Hi, All!!!

Please forgive me if I missed out somehow; I did a "SEARCH" of this forum using words like "Fuel Rail Removal", and seemed to totally strike out. I have a question about removing the fuel rail to replace the #1 injector. I have a Haynes manual I bought for my '94 (it includes my son's 2003 I'm working on), but I *think* it may make this job harder than it really is.

The rail for the numbers 1, 2, & 3 cylinders *looks* like its fairly accessible. Is it possible to remove this passenger side fuel rail by removing the fuel line (need to rent the tool for that), and the 2 bolts that hold that rail down? The manual calls for removal of the intake plenum to remove the fuel rail, but I'm wondering if that's geared more for getting to the #4, #5, & #6 (driver's side) fuel rail?

The truck is getting spark to the number one plug. I pulled the cap, inserted a phillips head screwdriver into the cap, started the truck, and watched the spark jump from the screwdriver to a bolt on the exhaust manifold. It jumps a gap around 3/16", approximately. With the truck running, I can pull the connectors for the pass. side injectors, one at a time. Engine runs noticeably rougher when the injector connectors for #2 & #3 cyinders are pulled. Plugging them back in returns to the (rough) idle it has now. Pulling the connector for the #1 cyl. makes no difference, along with reconnecting it. The rough running miss is still there. The code reader at a local auto parts store points to codes P0301, P0316, and P0300. So that's been the extent of my troubleshooting/diagnostics.

My son bought an injector, and wants to help me put it in. We're at the point of disassembly, and to me, it looks like it'll be easier to get that rail off than it says in the manual. Maybe not for the reassembly? Anyone have any input for this?

Thanks in advance for any help y'all may have!!!
Jimmie

 

[adsm08]

If the piece connecting the two sides is flexible you can pop off just the one side.

 

[Mr. Neutron]

Thanks for your response, adsm08! I appreciate it!

We'll give it a shot this afternoon, I reckon......

Jimmie

 

[veefer800canuck]

Maybe also check to see if that injector is getting an electrical signal to its plug before you swap the injector itself.

 

[Mr. Neutron]

Well, Phooey......

In answer to my original question: Yes! It is possible to lift that fuel rail up enough to remove & replace the injectors, on the passenger side of the engine. It was not necessary to remove the intake plenum, and wasn't necessary to disconnect the fuel line, as the Haynes manual said to do. Which was nice; the fuel line disconnect tool we rented from a local auto parts store didn't work, and neither did my Lisle white plastic disconnect tools that I own. We replaced the #1 cylinder's injector.

But, the thing still runs like crap. Same chuggy, rough idle, and general rough running with a lack of power. I think my '94 2.3l 4 cyl. might kick this 3.0's buttocks the way the V-6 is now running. It threw the same P0301 & P0316 codes as it did before. And the "start the engine, and pulling the #1 cylinder's injector elec. connector does what it did before: Nothing.

So, I guess the above post has wisdom & merit. I'm not certain how to check for power to that injector. Again, any help will definitely be appreciated. Thanks again, Folks!
Jimmie

 

[Mr. Neutron]

Update! Truck Fixed

Just a quick update here.......

Again, the topic of this was about fuel rail removal. And again, the one for the passenger side/#1, #2, & #3 cylinders is easily removed without following the instructions in the Haynes Manual. You can basically just remove the black plastic cover for the throttle body, remove the vacuum line, and the two 8mm bolts that hold down the fuel rail. You can then lift up the rail enough to remove & replace the injectors on that side of the engine. The other side would be a little (okay, A Lot) more involved......

But the problem turned out to be a flaky ignition coil pack. Way easier to fix...... But was tougher for me to diagnose. I basically just "threw enough money at it ($58 for an Autozone ign. coil) until it got fixed", which I don't like to do or advocate. A mechanic, who I greatly respect, told me he sees way more ignition problems in these older 3.0 than injector problems. So I kinda got to thinking.....

Even though I did the very scientific "stick a screwdriver in the spark plug cap and start the truck to see if it has spark" deal, it proved inaccurate in this case. The spark would jump a smallish gap, but not as big a gap as it possibly could have been, and it wasn't a nice fat, blue spark. I don't know how to test a coil, so I guessed, bought a new coil, and got lucky. It fixed the truck.

Don't know if this will help anyone else or not, but I hope so. If you can learn how to diagnose a coil, I think you would be much wiser than I am......

Jimmie