2.5L ('98-'01) Fuel pressure regulator

[Tenper616]

I need the part number for a fuel pressure regulator on a 1998 2.5l b2500,

 

[RonD]

The V6 Rangers changed to a 60psi Returnless fuel system in 1998, so has the FPR in the gas tank with the pump

Not sure if the 4cyl Rangers did that until late 2001(2.3l Duratec engines)
If you have 2 Fuel lines in the engine bay, they have braided mesh steel coverings, then its still a Return system running 35psi fuel pressure
So has an FPR on the Return fuel hose mounted on the engine/fuel rail

Couldn't find a Ford/motorcraft part number specific to 1998-2001 2.5l Rangers

 

[Tenper616]

The V6 Rangers changed to a 60psi Returnless fuel system in 1998, so has the FPR in the gas tank with the pump

Not sure if the 4cyl Rangers did that until late 2001(2.3l Duratec engines)
If you have 2 Fuel lines in the engine bay, they have braided mesh steel coverings, then its still a Return system running 35psi fuel pressure
So has an FPR on the Return fuel hose mounted on the engine/fuel rail

Couldn't find a Ford/motorcraft part number specific to 1998-2001 2.5l Rangers

My truck is a returnless style as well, going to the part store they said they don't have one, I've found some that look exactly like it online but then it says it won't fit the truck and won't pull anything up for it other than aftermarket styles that are a remote location

 

[RonD]

After the 1998 change to Returnless the FPRs were not considered a separate part
Just included with a new Fuel Pump assembly

But on the 1998-2000 assemblies they are just hooked directly to the fuel pump and to the OUT to filter hose at the top of the assembly, then have a 3rd hose that goes to bottom of the tank to return fuel when 60psi is reached

You should be able to replace those if they are rated at 60psi

In this picture of assembly: https://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2015/02/05/19/04/pic-2994795724152227059-1600x1200.jpeg

The round silver color unit is the FPR, its connected to the pump and out to filter line with rubber hoses and clamps
On its back side is a white "return" hose that peaks out at the left bottom of assembly


2001-2011 are different FPRs, just have 2 hoses connected
The 1998-2000 setup caused fuel pressure to fluctuate too much at the engine end
So in 2001 Ford added a 3 port fuel filter, 3rd port was a Return line back to the gas tank
This Return line connected to the FPR in the tank, same location different plumbing
So pump was connected directly to the filter's IN, no FPR in between
FPR maintained 60psi in the filter so less fluctuation at the engine end of fuel system

 

[Tenper616]

Then what is this part call that's on the fuel rail it's got a vacuum line going to the intake plenum and a single hose going to it on the backside that come to it from the fuel filter on the frame rail on the driver side

 

[RonD]

That's the Pulse Damper

When the FPR and its rubber diaphragm were removed from the engine end of the fuel rail, pulse waves from injectors opening and closing had nothing to absorb the waves so they could build up, so when an injector opened it could have higher or lower pressure as a pressure waved passed by, so more fuel added or less fuel added, so not good
The Pulse Damper is just a rubber diaphragm that absorbs pressure waves
The Vacuum hose is a safety feature in case diaphragm leaked fuel, leaked fuel would be sucked into the engine causing rich running which would set trouble codes
Which is much better than an engine fire, lol

 

[Tenper616]

Okay, so, I just replaced the fuel pump, and it's a new motor it acts as though it floods out reving any more than like 2700 rpms and when cold will stall out, but here lately it's been stalling right after start up and now when hot if I shut it off for a few minutes, pump gas or run into the store, it won't start back up with out a shit of starting fluid, would this pulse damper cause that? Edit::: Also, there's always been a tick even with the new motor in it and seems like it's low on power

 

[RonD]

No, not unless there was fuel in that vacuum hose, which you checked for?

Cold gasoline engines need to be Choked
Computer does this based on ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor, not the same as the Temp Sender for dash board temp gauge

With key on computer checks the coolant temp via ECT sensor
Under 140degF = some choke is used, the colder the temp the more choke is needed
"Choke" on gasoline engines means Richer fuel mix and higher idle, the colder it is the Richer the mix and the higher the idle
As engine(ECT) warms up the idle goes down and mix gets leaner
After a few minutes the computer switches to Closed Loop and uses O2 sensor to adjust air/fuel mix
(O2 sensors only last 12 years or 100k miles, cause richer running after that, they are the ONLY sensors that wear out)

If would be good to use an OBD2 reader to see what the computer sees from the ECT sensor at cold start and with a re-start warm

Bluetooth ELM327 reader is $15 and TorquePro APP is $5
Way cheaper than replacing sensors on speculation

Pull a couple of spark plugs on passenger side and see if their tips show darker color of Rich running

You can do the "Clear Flooded Engine" test to see if injectors are leaking

All Fuel injection computers have this mode: "Clear Flooded Engine"
Key on
Press gas pedal down to the floor all the way and hold it down
(when computer is on and sees 0 RPMs and WOT, wide open throttle, it will shut off fuel injectors, so driver can Clear a Flooded Engine, spark is still on)
Try to start
It should not start or fire, no fuel
If no start then injectors are not leaking, nor is the Pulse Damper

If it starts then could be fuel leaking in, but...................
Need to test if you have WOT at the throttle sensor
Use a stick against the seat to hold gas pedal down all the way
Go to the engine and see if you can manually open the throttle a bit more
If not then yes, fuel is leaking in
If you can open the throttle a bit more then Google: Ranger throttle cable mod
Very easy fix for stretched cable, to restore Full throttle, WOT

 

[Tenper616]

I've checked for fuel in the vacuum line tried the clear flood mode basically everything you have said, I might try to get a scanner on it again to verify fam, it drops way lean and way rich last time I had one on it,

 

[RonD]

Then it reads like computer is bad
I would for sure do a "sanity test" on it

Better to have an OBD2 reader for that
Unplug a sensor, like MAF
Start engine
CEL should come on quickly because no MAF connected
Shut off engine
Reconnect MAF
Start engine
CEL should come on but then go off when it see MAF working again
(without the reader you don't know what code was set)

Repeat with other sensors, one at a time

You are basically seeing if computer is "sane", doesn't mean its not bad, lol, but its not insane, so no world takeovers or anything like that

 

[Tenper616]

I did also replace the computer not that long ago,

 

[RonD]

Well something got missed..................

If you think its a running rich issue then there are only 3 things
Fuel pressure
Injector size
Computer

Fuel pressure can be tested and confirmed

Injector size, can be looked up, people have installed larger injectors, thinking they are the same as Jets in a carb, they are not, just cause a big issue

Computer has sensors, O2, ECT, Air Temp, and MAF, which help it determine best air/fuel mix
You can use an OBD2 reader to watch Live Data to confirm each sensor is within parameters, engine off and engine running

Only thing we haven't touched on is clogged exhaust or clogged air intake

 

[Tenper616]

Exhaust is not clogged, I know that for sure and as far as I know intake is not clogged either,

 

[Tenper616]

When I replaced the fuel pump it was just the pump, the fuel pressure regulator is a part of the assembly, so couldn't that mean that it is still bad? Also looking up online I have read that the pulse damper COULD cause about 99% of my issues, if it were bad,

 

[RonD]

Pulse Damper just a rubber diaphragm so would leak if it was bad