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2.3L ('83-'97) Fuel injector- right and wrong options? Flow rates?


Chapap

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Jul 31, 2021
Messages
1,068
City
NW Florida
Vehicle Year
1994
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
Total Drop
1.5” till I get these springs replaced
Tire Size
225-70-R14
I changed everything and I’m still getting 173 O2 System Indicates Rich. Before changing ECU I got 179 At Lean Adaptive Limit During Part Throttle, so I guess that’s an improvement. I have no fuel in regulator vac hose (new) and was hoping the new O2 sensor was bad since it was running in such a rich condition for so long. I replaced it with the OEM NTK sensor. I get same code, but it comes in sooner now and stays on much longer. I figured I needed new (again) plug wires since the ones I put on were all far too long. I attached photo of old plugs. I went ahead and replaced them too (only on right side so far).

I still get the 173 code so now I’m racking my brain as to what is wrong. Are there different injectors? I assumed that rockauto would only give proper options. Are these injectors incorrect for this engine? Ultra Power MFI690



9DCE50B3-DD19-4B76-960F-7DAB4FADCFCF.jpeg
 
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Surprised no one has chimed in to offer help yet. Those plugs are pig rich. Since you have a scanner...throw it on there and get real time data on your MAF at idle. It should read in the low 2.x g/s. There's a general rule of thumb that at idle, grams per second of air across the MAF should be equal to your engines liters or thereabouts. Example, my 2.5L 1999 reads 2.7 g/s at idle with a K&N filter. If you have a high reading in the 7's for example, it could be tricking the ECM into believing there's a huge amount of air coming into the intake and it's dumping huge amounts of fuel to meet that air demand. You'd also suffer from horrible fuel mileage as a result. Check you SHRTFT and LTFT and post those results as well and I can offer some guidance where you could begin to troubleshoot next.
 
Surprised no one has chimed in to offer help yet. Those plugs are pig rich. Since you have a scanner...throw it on there and get real time data on your MAF at idle. It should read in the low 2.x g/s. There's a general rule of thumb that at idle, grams per second of air across the MAF should be equal to your engines liters or thereabouts. Example, my 2.5L 1999 reads 2.7 g/s at idle with a K&N filter. If you have a high reading in the 7's for example, it could be tricking the ECM into believing there's a huge amount of air coming into the intake and it's dumping huge amounts of fuel to meet that air demand. You'd also suffer from horrible fuel mileage as a result. Check you SHRTFT and LTFT and post those results as well and I can offer some guidance where you could begin to troubleshoot next.
Well I don’t have a scanner. I could probably get a lot of use out of one. Does eeciv give this kind of info?
I also remembered something that’s probably significant. I damaged the crank sensor when changing the timing belt. I unbolted it thinking I had to, then I turned the crank and it got caught behind the wheel thing that it reads. It bent a piece of the flange that rides inside the sensor and broke one of the sensors mounting holes. I bent the flange back and the sensor seemed to fit right. Think that’s an issue?
 
The crank sensor could be an issue as it sets timing. I figured you had a scanner because you’re listening codes. I would invest in one since they’re valuable tools for diagnosing issues like these. I have a Foxwell and a Centrec. I like the Foxwell better because if there’s a code present, it offers areas/problems to check related to the trouble code helping focus on the related parts instead of having to search the internet for answers. I’m sorry but I’m not familiar with eeciv.
 
The crank sensor could be an issue as it sets timing. I figured you had a scanner because you’re listening codes. I would invest in one since they’re valuable tools for diagnosing issues like these. I have a Foxwell and a Centrec. I like the Foxwell better because if there’s a code present, it offers areas/problems to check related to the trouble code helping focus on the related parts instead of having to search the internet for answers. I’m sorry but I’m not familiar with eeciv.
I was just reeding the flashing light. I do have a Bluetooth obd2 dongle and the torque app for my previous car and family’s cars. It’s very helpful. There are readers out there for EEC-IV but I have no clue what they can do.
 
torque does work very well. you can go to the different gages and pick to set one to check your fuel/air ratios and all that. scroll through the option when adding a gage to the screen.

i was playing with torque lite in my 04 ranger and added tons of dials to see everything it would show.

another good scanner company is innova. i have two and they work on everything i have ever plugged them into for reading codes, resetting lights, and seeing some other stuff
 

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