How they check it (this is for 1995 & older vehicles):
What they do is clamp the vapor hose going to the charcoal canister under the hood to block it off (preferable would be to remove the hose & plug it, but some smog techs might potentially take issue with this because so much of this shit is controlled by the state and has to be done "by the book"). Then they attach a machine to your fuel tank that pressurizes it (I assume to around 2-3 PSI, but I'm just guessing), then the machine stops and sits there for a couple minutes to check that the tank does not depressurize at all. If it does, then a leak exists = fail.
A cracked filler neck hose is by far the most common culprit on these things, but another fairly common spot is the gasket around the vapor vent on the top of the fuel tank (or sometimes the vent itself goes bad). The seal around the fuel pump assembly is also another possible failure point.
As said, it'll be easiest to pull the bed off so that everything about the fuel tank is right there and easy to get at.
I modified an old gas cap (mostly just by disassembling it so that the one-way valve is exposed) that way I can press a piece of hose against it to lightly pressurize the tank and see if it holds pressure. After leaving it sit for an hour or two, I say a little prayer in my head while I press my finger on the valve and listen for it to hiss. I do this just to make sure there's no leaks before I take it in.
P.S., I was told it is best to do a smog check with a full tank. I guess the lower air volume in the tank is less likely to trigger a failure than if there's a lot more air in there.
As for "GROSS", I wouldn't have thought the evap system would be anything but "Pass" or "Fail". Did they tag your truck as a "Gross Polluter" ?