Frustrated is an understatement and cannot afford a real mechanic.....

[Erff Erffalotte]

Sill will not start after replacing: wires, plugs, cap and rotor, coil, ignition control module. getting power to coil and spark. Fuel pump is audible. Starting fluid doesnt make any difference. I got this truck 4 years ago and it has never had any problems with any of its systems. It was running pretty good lacking a tune up. This all started from me thinking it a good time to replace ignition parts because I was replacing valve cover gaskets. This truck has been so reliable even, as it just turned 300,000 miles. I am stranded without it going on two months. I cannot continue riding my bicycle almost 2 hrs each way to work. I know I am warmer than an ice cube on this very cold (and dangerous) commute, but "Old Blue" sure has a good heater in her.
HELP! What am I missing?

 

[2011Supercab]

First question, What engine does it have ?
guessing 2.9 because of the forum heading.

Second question, Did you pull the distributor out ?

 

[Josh B]

You need to take it one step at a time, backing up to where you started , and giving everything you changed another look, possibly in some cases putting the old part back and try it, maybe you somehow got a lame part.
I pity you fella and hope you can find the problem, it is in there somewhere

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

If starter turns engine over then do 50/50 Test
Spray fuel into the engine manually, gasoline, Quick Start(ether), carb cleaner, brake cleaner, ect....................
Try to start
If it starts, runs and dies, you have spark but no fuel delivery, i.e. pump or injectors
If it doesn't fire/start then its a spark issue, i.e. TFI module or out of time
50/50 instant results

 

[Erff Erffalotte]

2.9, no, ive not pulled the distributor.

 

[Josh B]

Amen Ron Read up^ Erff

 

[rusty ol ranger]

He said starting fluid makes no difference.

So i would believe we are dealing with a spark issue here.

First off you kinda made a mistake just changing parts for the sake of changing them. My 1st ranger had 300k on mostly orginal parts and ran great.

2nd, i would verify that all the plug wires are in their proper location. Check the 2.9 FAQ sticky thread for firing order, cylinder location and distributor rotation.

3rd, id pull a plug and put hook the wire up. Have a friend crank it over and see if the plugs are firing.

Also one thing that always gets overlooked is the coil plug. Ive been guilty of it to. The wire can snap off inside the plug and it will look connected but its not...i had my 87 towed over this once.

 

[2011Supercab]

Also verify the rotor turns or is installed, remove distributor cap and crank engine.

I knew a guy that bought a new distributor only to find out he forgot to put the rotor in the old one, and no it wasn't me.

 

[19Walt93]

First: Did it just fail to start one day, did it quit while you were driving, or did it fail to start only after you replaced the valve cover gaskets?
If the no start appeared after the ignition parts were changed the first thing I would check is the firing order and the second thing would be all the wiring connectors. Those hard shell wiring plugs can get corroded inside.

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

Not that it is the problem but you need to check fuel pressure. Just because you can hear the pump running doesn't mean its pumping or making enough pressure. Usually when its not its good sign but pumps can still turn on and sound like there working and there not putting out enough or any pressure.... If it is making good pressure, what ever spec is over 40 psi? that rules that out so you can go right to spark or ignition side of things.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Seems the issue is no spark, since the starting fluid did not ignite.

Sounds like you changed a lot of parts that are for making spark. I would check those.

Something is off/broken or bad part. Its something stupid.

Maybe check the timing too, just in case. I don't think you need a mechanic if you changed those parts.

I would have done a lot more before resorting to hours of commuting on a bicycle through inclement weather for months...2 hours a day for 2 months adds up to less time than needed to fix the truck...

Well at least you are getting plenty of exercise.

 

[Angie]

"Well at least you are getting plenty of exercise. " <<< that was my first thought also ..... i couldn't do it .....

 

[Erff Erffalotte]

I would like to thank everyone who put their input in to this thread specially, Rusty ol Ranger for leading me to that 2.9 sticky thread about the ignition and firing order. It was something very simple as I thought because its always started right up. So what I did was rotate the wires one distributor post counterclockwise and it fired right up. So now, so far I have replaced fuel pump plugs wires cap rotor coil ICM valve cover gaskets (was leaking a lot of oil, old gaskets were fried in hot oil and came out in a bunch of pieces) and since the air conditioning has never worked, I removed the motor or pump or whatever it is called, eliminating a belt and pulley and some extra weight that was not doing anything. Made getting the valve cover on and off the driver's side a little less hassle. Now what I have is a happy Ranger XLT. I didn't know until this forum came to my attention that the engine was made in Cologne, Germany. I had a 1974 Mustang 2 with a V6 that was made in Germany (that's what the seller told me, anyway) and I remember thinking that he must be bullshitting me but, I guess it was true because that was another almost indestructible engine. And by the way I only had to ride my bike to work four times thanks to a wonderful girlfriend who really did go out of her way to make sure I had all my necessary tools and of course, me on time at both job sites.

 

[Josh B]

Awesome Erff Few even say thanks, much less a whole paragraph

 

[19Walt93]

I'd suggest capping off any open a/c fittings to keep moisture and dirt out, just in case you decide to fix the a/c later.
And thanks for letting us know what fixed it.