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Front Diff. & U-Joints


a31ford

Electronics GURU
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
Joined
Apr 15, 2012
Messages
571
City
Brandon, Manitoba
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Manual
Simple question: (words of wisdom from other members please..)

After looking through the tech section on axles, is there anything special about replacing the U-Joints on the front axles ?

If I'm putting it in the shop, I'll pull the entire front end and it's gona get EVERYTHING checked & replaced........ So I guess it's going to be a full rebuild :D

Greg
 
Make sure they pay attention to the right axle shaft phasing when putting things back together. It makes a difference . There will be vibration if it isn't correct and there is no key in the slip yoke. Correct phasing is with the knuckles attached to each side of the slip yoke oriented the same way. If one is vertical the other should be vertical.

The shop I had work on mine didn't pay attention and insisted it didn't make a difference. I ended up pulling it all apart myself to fix and it did resolve the vibration issue for a week at least till the front shaft u-joint froze.

The left side only has one u-joint so no phasing issue.

On the spindles there are the bearings for the rotor but on the back side there is bearing for the axle shafts. If you are getting bearings done, don't let them miss those.

When pulling the spindles, right side axle shaft comes out of the slip yoke. The other half of slip yoke and stub shaft going into the differential do not come out. There is a c-clip inside the differential. This means getting the u-joint on that stub shaft has to be changed in place unless the differential is being dropped. The people at the local shop assumed that the stub shaft was just jammed and tried hard to pull it before concluding that just maybe it doesn't come out and just chose not to replace that u-joint and rather than call, told me when I picked it up after all re-assembled and no options without incurring more labor. I was not getting the differential dropped.

The left hand axle shaft does pull out.

So those are my lessons learned.
 
Don't use a press or a clamp to drive the joints out. Lay them on a vise and hit the horizontal shaft at the weld to drive the vertical cap down, then tap them back in. Presses and clamps bend the ears, then the end of the cap blows out when you try to put it together.
 
.
Well so far... it's the slip yoke that has given away (broke the ears off) so there is NO way it's getting fixed today.

Called the local wreckers, 250 buys me an entire front axle, hub to hub, but no springs.
They hope to have it out late tomorrow.

Greg
 
.
Well so far... it's the slip yoke that has given away (broke the ears off) so there is NO way it's getting fixed today.

Called the local wreckers, 250 buys me an entire front axle, hub to hub, but no springs.
They hope to have it out late tomorrow.

Greg

you should check and replace the axle pivot bushings as well
 
Make sure they pay attention to the right axle shaft phasing when putting things back together. It makes a difference . There will be vibration if it isn't correct and there is no key in the slip yoke. Correct phasing is with the knuckles attached to each side of the slip yoke oriented the same way. If one is vertical the other should be vertical.

The shop I had work on mine didn't pay attention and insisted it didn't make a difference. I ended up pulling it all apart myself to fix and it did resolve the vibration issue for a week at least till the front shaft u-joint froze.

The left side only has one u-joint so no phasing issue.

On the spindles there are the bearings for the rotor but on the back side there is bearing for the axle shafts. If you are getting bearings done, don't let them miss those.

When pulling the spindles, right side axle shaft comes out of the slip yoke. The other half of slip yoke and stub shaft going into the differential do not come out. There is a c-clip inside the differential. This means getting the u-joint on that stub shaft has to be changed in place unless the differential is being dropped. The people at the local shop assumed that the stub shaft was just jammed and tried hard to pull it before concluding that just maybe it doesn't come out and just chose not to replace that u-joint and rather than call, told me when I picked it up after all re-assembled and no options without incurring more labor. I was not getting the differential dropped.

The left hand axle shaft does pull out.

So those are my lessons learned.

Don't use a press or a clamp to drive the joints out. Lay them on a vise and hit the horizontal shaft at the weld to drive the vertical cap down, then tap them back in. Presses and clamps bend the ears, then the end of the cap blows out when you try to put it together.

sorry to hijack this thread. good advise.

I will be tearing down my d35 within the next few weeks because it is leaking gear oil. I am replacing u-joints, seals, and the c-clip eliminator, too, while I'm at it. anything else to replace?
 
sorry to hijack this thread. good advise.

I will be tearing down my d35 within the next few weeks because it is leaking gear oil. I am replacing u-joints, seals, and the c-clip eliminator, too, while I'm at it. anything else to replace?

Take the slip joint on the long shaft apart, clean the splines with a wire brush if needed, and pack it full of PTFE lube.
 
ADSM... on 2 Counts, you are "BANG ON !!!!!"

1) the joints on a vice, dead on, poped the top cap out in 2 light hits.

2) the slip joint was, (Still Is) frozen solid with crap (I would assume that is the reason for the failure in the first place...

+1 on both counts ! (Dam page says I have to spread some around before I can rep you again....)


Black Demon, I'm going through the ENTIRE front end, It's in the garage now, do it right the FIRST time..... :icon_surprised:

Greg
 
Last edited:
Yeah, when you finally get the slip joint apart be sure to use PTFE, and not bearing grease or something like that. If the guy at the parts store doesn't know what PTFE is, tell him you want the "light blue teflon shit".

It doesn't dry out and bind or bang like regular grease.
 
i pull mine apart every 2-3 years to check things over, its that time again this spring when things warm up and thaw out. probly need some parts this year, have used my 4wd alot, defintly going to get the ptfe lube for the slip-joint!
 
sorry to hijack this thread. good advise.

I will be tearing down my d35 within the next few weeks because it is leaking gear oil. I am replacing u-joints, seals, and the c-clip eliminator, too, while I'm at it. anything else to replace?

Please post a blow by blow account of this project. I'm topping the front end off because it leaks too. Its not a daily driver, so it isn't a big deal this time of year. TIA
 
Please post a blow by blow account of this project. I'm topping the front end off because it leaks too. Its not a daily driver, so it isn't a big deal this time of year. TIA

i'll let you know how it goes for me. its not going to be until mid-march until it warms up a little bit (hoping), as I have no heat in garage.

FYI. the c-clip eliminater (see tech article) spring is ordered. I ordered the spring from my Echo dealer. it still is an active part number so it is available. unfortunately they had to order it. the spring was only $2.73 + tax.

I am also considering putting a drain hole and plug in the diff to ease in changing the gear oil. i'll see if I end up doing that.
 
I am also considering putting a drain hole and plug in the diff to ease in changing the gear oil. i'll see if I end up doing that.

we did this on a '94 F250 dad bought, had it apart for a bad bearing, seals and other front-end stuff. drilled/tapped for a pipe plug, have yet to change the front diff oil since then, but its a nice thing to have, otherwise you have to use a pump to draw the oil out of there, and you dont quite get it all that way.
 

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