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Front Clip Removal


Ranger850

Doesn't get Sarcasm . . .
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Jan 24, 2018
Messages
8,609
City
Tallahassee Florida
Vehicle Year
2001
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
Stock 2"
Tire Size
Stock
My credo
Doing things wrong, until I get it right.
How hard is it to remove the front clip?
2001 Ranger Edge.
I figure the motor will be more accessible and less likely to dent the fenders if they're not there.


(Same question for a 2000 Explorer)
 
I think the inner fenders are part of the firewall. You might gain an inch by removing the fenders but the front end will be significant by allowing you to get closer to the engine. With the bumper and grille removed I would image you would be 5-8" closer. Not sure if the core support is removable but it's a good chance that they're connected to the fenders with spot welds and sealer.
 
I think the inner fenders are part of the firewall. You might gain an inch by removing the fenders but the front end will be significant by allowing you to get closer to the engine. With the bumper and grille removed I would image you would be 5-8" closer. Not sure if the core support is removable but it's a good chance that they're connected to the fenders with spot welds and sealer.
Bumper and grill are already off. Hood will be soon, just wondering if it was removable as a unit, but it seems it is spot welded all over the place.

I'm mentally prepping for my V8 swap and exploring and planning my engine swap procedure.
 
If it's basically the same as the 90, there are 27 or so spot welds behind the doors each side. Drill them out with a spot weld cutter and Bob's your uncle. I used self tapping screws to put it back together.
 
When I did the LSX in my truck I used just the block as a starting point, tacked in the mounts, set the heads and manifolds on to verify fitment, unfortunately, I had to modify the ex. manifolds to fit the exhaust between the frame rails. I didn't want to be like everyone and put the radiator in front of the rad support because I wanted to keep the AC.

A little homework and research can go a long way. Most folks doing the LSX swap use the truck serp. setup. I found out the truck serp. setup is 1-9/16" longer than the corvette setup. This allowed me to keep the radiator in the factory position.
 
If it's basically the same as the 90, there are 27 or so spot welds behind the doors each side. Drill them out with a spot weld cutter and Bob's your uncle. I used self tapping screws to put it back together.
29 spot welds, according to your post I found in another thread, through Google, lol. You even posted a pic of the special bit for spot welds. ( looked like a regular bit with the tip broken off. I've seen them before ). Definitely removing the Explorer clip, as it will NOT be reassembled, probably parted out for resale.
 

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