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Front Axle Swap 88 BII


I am not sure of the Tcase. It is manual and original to the 88 BII. it works well but are you saying that it would be better to get the one from the exp.? if i can use the one i have then I would rather not get the exp. at least not right now. I am going to see about both front and rear axles while i'm there and i can see your point to getting the rear first. and i DO want to leave options open for Lockers and would rather not limit available options for the future. so I guess that the non-LS would be the better option?
I thank you all for your input and please let me know if I'm missing something here. I talked with the owner of the JY and he told me that he knows for sure he has the 8.8 there and it has 3.73 in it. non LS so is this good? I just want to be sure.
 
ya, thatll do, itll leave ur options open for lockers
 
If you have a manual t-case, I'd say keep it (it'll be the BW1350 if it's original). There isn't really enough difference between it and the 1354 to warrant trying to track down the elusive manual version. Just have the front driveshaft shortened an inch for the D35 and it should all go together fine.
 
If you have a manual t-case, I'd say keep it (it'll be the BW1350 if it's original). There isn't really enough difference between it and the 1354 to warrant trying to track down the elusive manual version. Just have the front driveshaft shortened an inch for the D35 and it should all go together fine.

so is that right, the front DS is exactly an inch shorter?
 
Even if you do get an LS rear axle, lockers are still available for that carrier, just not as many manufactures make one for it...
SVT
 
Try to find a 4.10 limited slip. And get matching axles like said above. I wish I would have done that to begin with instead of using two different donor vehicles. If not 4.10 then find a 3.73. Get one out of an explorer just to make sure you get a 31 spline rear and a true d35 front. Watch for manual hubs to on the front. On the rear you would have to do a spring over axle and do the shock tabs. Nothing a lil welding don't take care of. Find a 4.10 set and you don't even have to set up gears till you go lower.

First there are no 4.10's in TTB explorers.

If you want a real D35 with 4.10's you have to go hunting a 1990-92 4cyl 4x4 or a 2.9 Ranger/Bronco2 with a an AUTOMATIC transmission
(the 4.10's were never offered with a V6 and a 5sp trans)

Second there are no "hybred diffs" in Explorers, only "True" dana 35's in Explorers.

AD
 
Wrong and right. All ex's have true Dana 35s. But they are explorers with d35s that have 4.10s. Idk about the manual trans or tcase. But you can get the front d35 with a 4.10. They might be rare or whatever.

Regardless. Just do some research and look around. And you'll end up 4.56s at least so just get 3.73s if you find it. You won't be happy with either gear set.
 
First there are no 4.10's in TTB explorers.

If you want a real D35 with 4.10's you have to go hunting a 1990-92 4cyl 4x4 or a 2.9 Ranger/Bronco2 with a an AUTOMATIC transmission
(the 4.10's were never offered with a V6 and a 5sp trans)

Second there are no "hybred diffs" in Explorers, only "True" dana 35's in Explorers.

AD

My one buddy in HS had a 93 4x4 manual trans, electronic t-case with 4.10s.
 
Probably swapped them in I'm thinking.

4.10 was never offered as a factory option for any 4.0L TTB truck, Ranger or Explorer.
 
theres a ford only j/y here that has a complete exploder with 4:10s.
if i wasnt so frickin broke id grab it. I know he wants 400 for both the front and back.:annoyed:
 
the tech library shows it as axle code D2, saw one in our j/y not to long ago. to bad i was broke..
 
Ok I got both axles today. they came out of a 91 exp. 90,000 original miles. the tag on the rear says 8.8 3.L73. the others that he had there was high milage and 3.55, so I chose to go with the Limited slip. also my BII has 3.73 gearing now and I figure that if I do one at a time it's no big deal.
anyway, it seems to me that the logical thing to do is go through these and make sure that there isn't anything wrong as well as get cleaned up and painted before the install. especialy the front. maybe even get all new bushings tie rods ect since i will basically have it all apart anyway. i dont know if it might be better to wait.
could use some input. also would it be easier to do the lockers before or after the swap? i only have a concrete carport to work on. jack stands ect..
thanks in advance for the help and also thanks for the help in the choosing.
 
oh yea. the front axle did not have a tag on it but did have the 10 bolt pattern of a D35. is there any other way to tell?
 
what did it come out of??
 

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