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Frame rust Preparation


JeffWS

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2008
Messages
22
Vehicle Year
1999
Transmission
Automatic
I have a 1993 Ranger Splash 4X4, and the frame and axle housings are rusted. The metal appears solid, but I would like to stop/remove the rust and protect the metal from rusting again.
I have read many ways to do this, but I was wondering if anyone here can recommend a good way/product of doing this job?
I would like to do this with the cab and bed on the frame. I can remove any loose rust, and I would like to use a chemical to remove the rust and protect the metal.

Thanks,

Jeff
 
i'd say go with POR-15 if you're willing to spend some loot. you can get it in a kit with all the prep stuff you need. my dad was telling me how great it works. he used it in the restoration of his '40 ford for all the chassis and suspension parts.
 
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How about that, I checked out Por-15's (http://www.por15.com/) website and found the coverage information.

1 quart cover an estimated 96 square feet at 3 mils thickness. 1 gallon covers an estimated 384 square feet at 3 mils thickness.
 
For removal, a wirewheel or sandblaster.

Without being able to dip the part in a chemical, seems like a waste of time to me.

To protect, POR-15 is good stuff, but there are similar products that would be cheaper.
 
For removal, a wirewheel or sandblaster.

Without being able to dip the part in a chemical, seems like a waste of time to me.

To protect, POR-15 is good stuff, but there are similar products that would be cheaper.

Ahh but their is a way around that, you can use a metal prep. Spray on, let set for a few minutes, and wash off. It works really well on body panels and i'm sure it would work well on a frame/chassis parts, then I would use POR-15.
 
The spray sounds great, but which product works the best to get the rust off?
 
Sandblast, self-etch primer, and paint. Its really worth the mess to have something sandblasted. Rust is rust, its gonna keep rusting no matter what you cover it up with.

Por-15 isn't gonna do much for you on a daily driver, rust WILL seep through after so long. If it were something you were only gonna drive on nice days, sure throw your money at POR-15. Personally I hate the stuff.

Chassis Saver in my opinion sticks better and dries harder, you can't scratch it with a hammer!
 
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yeah, if your going to use POR-15 then make sure you either lightly brush the rust and then paint it, or wire wheel or sand blast it and use the metal ready (its a spray on zinc coating that you rinse off with water after 15min.) and then paint it with a couple of coats. I did my entire frame on my 94 and it took 3 quarts to get full coverage of everything ( i had the cab and bed off so i got everything). Then i got a quart of chassis coat (NOT UV resistant like the regular POR 15) and gave it 1 full coat with that. I didnt discover the metal ready until after the frame was done (DOH!) and the paint lays down much smoother and sticks better with that under it. i used it on my hitch reciever, inner and outer fender wells, fire wall, and other miscellaneous small parts and i definately wish i had known about it when i did the frame. its a big job, so be careful not to get any on your HOOTUS!
 
Sandblast, self-etch primer, and paint. Its really worth the mess to have something sandblasted. Rust is rust, its gonna keep rusting no matter what you cover it up with.

Por-15 isn't gonna do much for you on a daily driver, rust WILL seep through after so long. If it were something you were only gonna drive on nice days, sure throw your money at POR-15. Personally I hate the stuff.

Chassis Saver in my opinion sticks better and dries harder, you can't scratch it with a hammer!

IMHO, a sandblaster absolutely can not be beat for rust removal. I just wish that I had a compressor capable of running one adequately.

Absolutely...I had mine frame-off restored...sandblasted both the frame and the bottom of the cab/firewall...then primed with an epoxy sealer...then I covered that with rust paint...and did the exposed areas with the rubberguard...

It's well worth the effort if you can afford some down-time...otherwise...a wire-wheel was what I started out with but gave up after several hours of raising dust and finding more rust...it can be done that way...just make sure to wear a breathing apparatus because rust dust is extremely toxic...or, at least, it left me choking a few times when I wasn't wearing a mask...
 

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