Ford ranger flooring - what is that stuff I just peeled off? And can I paint the floor?

[moretsky99]

1996 Ford Ranger Extended Cab. The rug was disgusting. I pulled the seats and tossed the rug. Now I'm trying to get down to bare metal. There's a coating round the manual shifter and on parts of the floor. It was cracked and had lifted so I'm prying it off with a putty knife. Please don't tell me it's asbestos!!
Should I replace this with some kind of similar product and, if so, what kind of product.

Initially I was thinking to paint the floor of the cab with truck bed coating, but I've read articles about toxicity of that product.
Now I'm thinking of just using a black Rustoleum spray paint. I don't want to buy a custom flooring product.

Opinions, please or reasons why I should not do this and do something else.

Thanks,
Allen

 

[Snatchsquatch]

I got one of the vinyl floor kits for my 98. It came with an insulation sheet that I just put over the stock floor (after removing the rug), ignoring the factory stuff other than what was already loose.

 

[moretsky99]

I got one of the vinyl floor kits for my 98. It came with an insulation sheet that I just put over the stock floor (after removing the rug), ignoring the factory stuff other than what was already loose.

I saw someone you Youtube, I think it was; he just painted the floor. I suppose I could always cover it with a kit in future, but I still wonder about the stuff that I had to chip/scrape/chisel off the floor. Wonder if that is necessary for heat or soundproofing?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I saw someone you Youtube, I think it was; he just painted the floor. I suppose I could always cover it with a kit in future, but I still wonder about the stuff that I had to chip/scrape/chisel off the floor. Wonder if that is necessary for heat or soundproofing?

My WAG is its a combo of soundproofing and sealing joints. I would pull whatever is easy and then paint.

 

[MT_PLS]

Most likely seam sealer. Check out the pictures in the link.
https://www.nationalsupplys.com/pro...hane-seam-sealer-automotive-black-10-5oz-tube

 

[moretsky99]

My WAG is its a combo of soundproofing and sealing joints. I would pull whatever is easy and then paint.

Most likely seam sealer. Check out the pictures in the link.
https://www.nationalsupplys.com/pro...hane-seam-sealer-automotive-black-10-5oz-tube

Can't imagine why I'd need a seam sealer. I believe it's more sound and heat/cold seal more than anything. It is laid right over the metal; I know because I peeled it all off since it was cracked and would allow water to penetrate. One patch in the ranger is around the shifter on the floor hump. Another patch is under the passenger's feet; another under the driver's feet. So guess it's a combination comfort from cold/warmth and perhaps a bit of noise restriction.

 

[moretsky99]

1996 Ford Ranger Extended Cab. The rug was disgusting. I pulled the seats and tossed the rug. Now I'm trying to get down to bare metal. There's a coating round the manual shifter and on parts of the floor. It was cracked and had lifted so I'm prying it off with a putty knife. Please don't tell me it's asbestos!!
Should I replace this with some kind of similar product and, if so, what kind of product.

Initially I was thinking to paint the floor of the cab with truck bed coating, but I've read articles about toxicity of that product.
Now I'm thinking of just using a black Rustoleum spray paint. I don't want to buy a custom flooring product.

Opinions, please or reasons why I should not do this and do something else.

Thanks,
Allen

I took my grinder to the floor and ground off any rust. In the ranger it seems the worst around the bolts that hold the seat down. Still, damned little rust for a 30 year old vehicle. Good job, Ford!

 

[gaz]

@moretsky99
I had some metal damage and removed all of the sound deadening/floor sealant in my 87 BII. After the removal I cleaned it thoroughly to determine any repairs needed; I repaired those areas then cleaned and prepped for POR-15 (in accordance with it's installation instructions).

With the 2 suggested coats of POR-15 fully cured I painted the firewall and floor. I used butyl sealant tape on all the seams and edges, then installed new sound dampening material in preparation for the carpet and new floor mats.

The areas that needed the most attention were the seams and it seems like new today!! Well worth the time, money and product.

 

[MT_PLS]

Can't imagine why I'd need a seam sealer. I believe it's more sound and heat/cold seal more than anything. It is laid right over the metal; I know because I peeled it all off since it was cracked and would allow water to penetrate. One patch in the ranger is around the shifter on the floor hump. Another patch is under the passenger's feet; another under the driver's feet. So guess it's a combination comfort from cold/warmth and perhaps a bit of noise restriction.

Auto factories apply seam sealer anywhere one panel meets or overlaps another panel.

 

[moretsky99]

@moretsky99
I had some metal damage and removed all of the sound deadening/floor sealant in my 87 BII. After the removal I cleaned it thoroughly to determine any repairs needed; I repaired those areas then cleaned and prepped for POR-15 (in accordance with it's installation instructions).

With the 2 suggested coats of POR-15 fully cured I painted the firewall and floor. I used butyl sealant tape on all the seams and edges, then installed new sound dampening material in preparation for the carpet and new floor mats.

The areas that needed the most attention were the seams and it seems like new today!! Well worth the time, money and product.

I looked up Por-15, which product did you use. Would I need that if my rust was not so bad. I ground the worst spots just because I hate to sand. I spray with rustoleum those spots and am looking into using something to spray the whole floor.

 

[gaz]

@moretsky99
Hello,
I used their RUST Preventative formula in gloss black. It has a great reputation for sealing bare metal, regardless of rust. It becomes a strong permanent barrier between the the clean meatal surface and the environment.

It is not the cheapest product on the market but if I need to repair or prevent rust/corrosion, I will spring for this stuff everytime.

NOTE¹
It should used with a suitable respirator system as it produces way more vapor than regular paint. I used a disposable cartridge mask , organic vapor cartridges with pre filters; with that set-up, I was breathing great and could detect any smell. If that had not worked I would have gone forced air.
NOTE²
f you haven't had much paint training...the hair on our heads has more surface area to absorb than all the other parts of our bodies combined (depends on how much head and body hair the individual has) a necessary practice is to cover the hair on your head, even if not spraying the product.

With a proper application of POR-15, I expect another 35+ years or reliable performance from my firewall and floor.

 

[moretsky99]

1996 Ford Ranger Extended Cab. The rug was disgusting. I pulled the seats and tossed the rug. Now I'm trying to get down to bare metal. There's a coating round the manual shifter and on parts of the floor. It was cracked and had lifted so I'm prying it off with a putty knife. Please don't tell me it's asbestos!!
Should I replace this with some kind of similar product and, if so, what kind of product.

Initially I was thinking to paint the floor of the cab with truck bed coating, but I've read articles about toxicity of that product.
Now I'm thinking of just using a black Rustoleum spray paint. I don't want to buy a custom flooring product.

Opinions, please or reasons why I should not do this and do something else.

Thanks,
Allen

I finally got a message from Rusto-leum. They said it's fine to use their Truck Bed paint inside the cab of my Ranger. Just to let it cure for 10 days and then any toxicity is no longer in play. As for the heat issue, they said the inside of the cab does not present enough heat to be an issue for this product.